Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

61 - 80 of 120 Posts

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,958 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Pretty straight body for an old girl


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yeah, most of the body is in excellent nick, theres a little dent and some light rippling on the front passenger door and a little mark above the right rear wheel arch but aside from that it's extremely straight.
If it was as rust free as it is dent free, I'd have a unicorn lol.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Yeti's Beast

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,958 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
I wasn't able to get all of the imperfections out of the LH brake lens, even after a fairly aggressive sand starting with 400grit paper.

The lens is from a different car, and a fair while ago in a fit of stupidity it with acetone to remove some paint from it, so there may have been some porosity (maybe?) And the acetone has etched quite deep into the lens, despite it feeling smooth and reflecting quite nicely. I'll try and find a replacement original lens.

The indicator lens turned out pretty good though with a little bit of modelling paint. I thinned it down and gave it a couple of light coats to avoid brush marks showing through.
This was half way through, the tint of the Tamiya paint matches well to that of the unfaded parts of the lens. Very happy with that.

522838
 

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,958 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Bit of progress today.
Inner fenders and front fender panels painted.
Tomorrow I'll paint the front of the chassis, then the fenders can be put back on. Still a long way to go but it feels good to be nearly at the stage where I can start reassembling some parts.

Anyway, I just brushed the paint on as I will do with the rest of the underbody - it doesn't need to be a work of art.
For 2 pak polyurethane industrial stuff, it actually brushed on fairly nice. Coverage was good, it didn't really run and I got a higher sheen than expected considering I didn't spray it. It does need to be layed on thick though, I found adding about 5% reducer was a good compromise between getting the required coat thickness and allowing it to flow and self level.

523175


The unpainted area of the fender sits forward of the radiator support and will be recoated in silver when I spray the engine bay.
523176
 

·
Registered
2018 Mazda BT50 Dual cab
Joined
·
10,472 Posts
With all that paint it will go slower and use more fuel. That’s why Datsun used so little paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
LED ZEPPELIN
1995 GQ TD42 NA
Joined
·
12,022 Posts
Nice work mate 👍
 

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,958 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
With all that paint it will go slower and use more fuel. That’s why Datsun used so little paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I'm hoping all the rust has reduced the weight enough that it offsets the weight I've added with paint lol.

Nice work mate 👍
Thanks mate!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Yeti's Beast

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,958 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
Shot some of that metalcast stuff at the brake and fuel lines, suprisingly only 85% was overspray.
Obviously looks nothing like yellow zinc plating, but whatever, better than black.
I also didn't strip the lines right down to bare shiny steel because I wasn't about to lift the body off the chassis to remove them (tried to separate them and manipulate them out which just resulted in bending them) and also because the paint is way more translucent than I expected.
Meh, can only see them if you look for them anyway.

523266


Chassis looks quite smart in black though.
Once the engines bays painted it'll be the nicest part of the car till I ruin it by putting crappy 40 year old parts in it.
523268
 

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,958 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Truth.
I did a Resto mod on a Suzuki RGV250 at least 60 % of the work was cleaning and degreasing.
You'll need to clean up those crappy old parts... OCD talking here...
I reckon you blokes are right.
I've given a few bits a quick wipe over, but in the long run it'll probably be worth doing it properly.
I'll regret it if I open the bonnet and see something rusty or caked in 40 years of dirt, but it'll never be perfect either, and I don't want it to be.

Also, I think we need pics of the old RGV.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Marko_SJ

·
Registered
CRD Wagon
Joined
·
1,228 Posts
I reckon you blokes are right.
I've given a few bits a quick wipe over, but in the long run it'll probably be worth doing it properly.
I'll regret it if I open the bonnet and see something rusty or caked in 40 years of dirt, but it'll never be perfect either, and I don't want it to be.

Also, I think we need pics of the old RGV.
I'll try and get them off my old computer, PAM later.

I don't have them saved to this phone. I highly regret selling that bike. Partly because it grenaded on the new owner. You think Nissan builds a grenade. Nothing on the RGVs.
 

·
Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,958 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Been a minute since I've updated this. I have cleaned up a fair few bits and pieces, painted some little stuff, that sorta boring crap.
I've pretty much finished painting the underbody and chassis too.

Learn from my mistake and never brush it. Ever. I can safely say its worth every cent involved to remove the body from the chassis to get them sand blasted, and then spray. It's hard to appreciate every single corner, edge, folded piece, weld joint, nook and cranny until you wire wheel then paint an underbody and still end up with about 45kg of dirt on a brush that has to be cleaned every 5 minutes.

Anyway, over the last few weeks a few parts have rocked up, front axle/diff seals, a couple of window seals, engine seals and bearings etc etc, so I now have most of the parts I'll need to get this thing back together, unfortunately I'll need to wait a bit to be able to get some decent colour matched paint due to lockdown, so a few of the parts will have to wait a bit before they're fitted.

Of course I decided to check the steering box oil and mask off for painting after my Nissan parts had shipped. And the plastic (why??) filler/vent plug broke.
Since I'm lead to believe BSPT and JIS PT use the same thread, I'll try and source a brass/steel one elsewhere since I'd prefer not to give Nissan $10 + shipping for a bit of threaded plastic.
524066


Mirrors, number plate light and assorted exterior and under bonnet stuff came up pretty nicely in black and gold.
I'll clean up the unpainted mirror pivot, its just cast ally.
524067

524069

I think I've said it before but, while the gold isn't even close to zinc plating with a gold chromate, it'll do. I can go back later and zinc plate some parts if I really feel the need anyway. As unlikely as that is, given the amount of use this thing will get.

I am also a bit torn about what to do with the wiring harness. It has a fair bit of the old silver paint on it, but I'd prefer not to peel back and re-wrap the whole thing, as small as it is. The existing tape is still in reasonably good nick too.
524071

Maybe a dusting of black spray paint will be good enough. I'd like to forget about it, since the loom runs down the inside of the chassis rail but I just know it'll bother me if I do nothing, even if no one else will see it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
I suggest leaving the original tape on the loom if its not coming off in places.
That is one consumable i wish i could find. Factory harness tape. Both the thin and not goopy stuff generally used in the cab around the bare wires.
And also the stuff they wrap around the split conduit for looms that run down the chassis. This stuff again is never goopy and is almost conformed to its shape and can go brittle with age but if left alone will hang on tight for ever.
I hate nothing more than unwrapping a piece of factory loom to then have to use that junk nitto tape cos thats all you can get.
 

·
Registered
'14 Y61 ZD30 CRD M/T ST
Joined
·
2,510 Posts
I suggest leaving the original tape on the loom if its not coming off in places.
That is one consumable i wish i could find. Factory harness tape. Both the thin and not goopy stuff generally used in the cab around the bare wires.
And also the stuff they wrap around the split conduit for looms that run down the chassis. This stuff again is never goopy and is almost conformed to its shape and can go brittle with age but if left alone will hang on tight for ever.
I hate nothing more than unwrapping a piece of factory loom to then have to use that junk nitto tape cos thats all you can get.
I feel your pain. I avoid electrical tape like the plague. I'd much rather use split corrugated tubing or braided sleeving, with heatshrink. If tape is unavoidable, I use TESA cloth tape.

@james008 can you perhaps clean the old paint off the original covering? Maybe with a bit of metho...? It'll drive me nuts as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
I feel your pain. I avoid electrical tape like the plague. I'd much rather use split corrugated tubing or braided sleeving, with heatshrink. If tape is unavoidable, I use TESA cloth tape.
Ive got a bunch of the tesa cloth tape. I like it. Doesnt leave sticky goop, sticks to its self really well and can be unwrapped and rewrapped atleast once. But its not stretchy so not great for wrapping the branches off the loom, unlike the factory stuff that is really thin and stretchy. And i dont know how much it will collect dirt and water if used in the engine bay or chassis.
I used it for all the incab parts of the loom as it will hopefully not rattle as much behind the dash.

I would love to have a roll of every type of tape tesa make and see what is good for differnt applications but it aint cheap or readily available.

I used the loom tape from car builders in the engine bay but have to say i wish i didnt.
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,194 Posts
Ive got a bunch of the tesa cloth tape. I like it. Doesnt leave sticky goop, sticks to its self really well and can be unwrapped and rewrapped atleast once. But its not stretchy so not great for wrapping the branches off the loom, unlike the factory stuff that is really thin and stretchy. And i dont know how much it will collect dirt and water if used in the engine bay or chassis.
I used it for all the incab parts of the loom as it will hopefully not rattle as much behind the dash.

I would love to have a roll of every type of tape tesa make and see what is good for differnt applications but it aint cheap or readily available.
I'd like a dollar for every binding on cars and boats I've done over the years and never been truly happy with, I have a roll of that cloth tape and it is solid as but as you say binding branches is not it's strong point, the search continues for the perfect tape :cautious:
 
61 - 80 of 120 Posts
Top