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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #101
A skilfully driven 4WD slowly pressurising the outside edge of each tyre should do the trick :).
That'll be much easier than using a bead breaker, and my beer holding hand can remain free.
I'll give it a shot, thanks mate!
 

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2013 Patrol Y61 DX EX Telstra service body
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104 Posts
I couldn't break the bead on a split rim by driving on it & ended up using the high lift jack. Base on the tyre and top underneath the bull bar, bout the only thing a high lift is good for with regard to flat tyres.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #103
Finally got around to doing @RickGQ 's quarter vent fix.
Much nicer than my initial few minute hack job.
Got the shape roughed in with a small file
525895


I cleaned it up a little bit, got it straight and the radius about right, I put a small taper on the transition from the round to rectangular section after these photos.
Nailed the thread length though. Which is good because I didn't measure anything lol.
525896


The nut needed a touch of filing before the ID of the spring would fit over it.
Once I was able to test fit it together, I added washers to act as shims to get the preload on the spring right.
525897
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #104
My new hone finally turned up, I decided to try attacking the old clutch slave cylinder before I got stuck into the brake master, I also found a genuine slave cylinder and new cup seal, so I gave that a tidy up too.
Started with this:
526092

They both tidied up fairly well, susrpisingly so for the Nabco (genuine)
526093

There's no pitting or anything so I'll use it I reckon. Should seal up fine with the new piston cup.

I didn't get any photos of the bore of the brake master, but it was pretty good to begin with, so I just gave it a light touch up, layed all the parts out and cleaned them.
526096


Pistons back together with new seals
526098


And reassembled. The bloody reservoir is a PITA to get on. About 45 minutes of swearing and cursing got it though, and like most good things in life lots of lube helped.
526101


Just got to bench bleed it, and its ready to go.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #105
I got the tyres off the rims.
I tried to use a track side method of using just 2 tyre levers, but the bead did not want to break due to age and rust.
Using a bead breaker sped the process up, but even still the bead was difficult to break with the breaker needing to be moved a couple of inches around the rim at a time instead of the usual 4 points I'd use for a non rusted bead and rim.

Given that 4 of the rims have newer tyres than the spare, and they looked like this, I was worried about the spare.
526355


Turns out it was the best of the lot surprisingly.
526356


I assume the other tyres have had the bead cleaned up with a wire wheel or something when the new tyres were fitted, removing the paint and allowing them to rust.

I have since given the rims a good wash to clean them up but have spent the last few days procrastinating about what to paint them with. Rattle cans or 2 pack auto paint. I don't think I'll bother with powdercoat, while it would be nice it'll be overkill for this thing and it makes touch ups more difficult.
 

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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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2,633 Posts
I got the tyres off the rims.
I tried to use a track side method of using just 2 tyre levers, but the bead did not want to break due to age and rust.
Using a bead breaker sped the process up, but even still the bead was difficult to break with the breaker needing to be moved a couple of inches around the rim at a time instead of the usual 4 points I'd use for a non rusted bead and rim.

Given that 4 of the rims have newer tyres than the spare, and they looked like this, I was worried about the spare.
View attachment 526355

Turns out it was the best of the lot surprisingly.
View attachment 526356

I assume the other tyres have had the bead cleaned up with a wire wheel or something when the new tyres were fitted, removing the paint and allowing them to rust.

I have since given the rims a good wash to clean them up but have spent the last few days procrastinating about what to paint them with. Rattle cans or 2 pack auto paint. I don't think I'll bother with powdercoat, while it would be nice it'll be overkill for this thing and it makes touch ups more difficult.
Cold gal?
 

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'14 Y61 ZD30 CRD M/T ST
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2,524 Posts
I got the tyres off the rims.
I tried to use a track side method of using just 2 tyre levers, but the bead did not want to break due to age and rust.
Using a bead breaker sped the process up, but even still the bead was difficult to break with the breaker needing to be moved a couple of inches around the rim at a time instead of the usual 4 points I'd use for a non rusted bead and rim.

Given that 4 of the rims have newer tyres than the spare, and they looked like this, I was worried about the spare.
View attachment 526355

Turns out it was the best of the lot surprisingly.
View attachment 526356

I assume the other tyres have had the bead cleaned up with a wire wheel or something when the new tyres were fitted, removing the paint and allowing them to rust.

I have since given the rims a good wash to clean them up but have spent the last few days procrastinating about what to paint them with. Rattle cans or 2 pack auto paint. I don't think I'll bother with powdercoat, while it would be nice it'll be overkill for this thing and it makes touch ups more difficult.
I painted my steel wheels with rattle cans almost 4 years ago and they're still perfect.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #108
Cold gal?
I'm not a huge fan of cold gal paints in general, but it would be fairly close to the colour that I'm after.
Thinned down a bit I expect it should spray reasonably well too.
Certainly inside the rims it should be beneficial at helping prevent future corrosion.

I painted my steel wheels with rattle cans almost 4 years ago and they're still perfect.
They look great Andrie, and its encouraging to hear that they still look good.
Silver spray paint, and maybe a bit of clear coat, might be a winner.
 

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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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2,633 Posts
I'm not a huge fan of cold gal paints in general, but it would be fairly close to the colour that I'm after.
Thinned down a bit I expect it should spray reasonably well too.
Certainly inside the rims it should be beneficial at helping prevent future corrosion.


They look great Andrie, and its encouraging to hear that they still look good.
Silver spray paint, and maybe a bit of clear coat, might be a winner.
I meant for the part of the rim hidden by the tyre. A few truckies I have spoken to recommend it for when they have found their rims in similar condition to yours. Needle scaler, (something I forget to chemically clean any last traces of rust out), then hit it with cold gal.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #110
I meant for the part of the rim hidden by the tyre. A few truckies I have spoken to recommend it for when they have found their rims in similar condition to yours. Needle scaler, (something I forget to chemically clean any last traces of rust out), then hit it with cold gal.
Right, gotcha, yeah it'll be good for that.
Guessing the chemical would be some sort of acid based converter or dissolver.
 

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1998 2.8GU wagon
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2,735 Posts
Right, gotcha, yeah it'll be good for that.
Guessing the chemical would be some sort of acid based converter or dissolver.
Don't put cold gal over rust converter or other paints, it needs to be in contact with bare steel to work. Either use rust converter then a primer & top coat or mechanically remove any rust then use gold gal.
 

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CRD Wagon
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1,236 Posts

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I used this on my loom behind the dash. Its definitely a quality tape and adhesive is awesome. I even unwrapped a section and rewrapped it and felt it would still stick to its self well. Almost feels like velcro and not sticky reside.
The only down side is its quite thick and not stretchy so not very good at wrapping around junctions.
I used it behind the dash as it would be slightly less noisy on loose sections that might rattle.
Im sure the adhesive and heat resistantce of it would hold up in exposed areas but it might look grubby real quick being cloth.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #115
@james008
Could not recall if you found the right tape. Was browsing another forum and they were talking about loom repair.

This tape came up as a recommendation vs your normal inso tape.
[/URL]
I just used the Narva loom tape, or insulation tape or whatever it is, has a different name to the regular leccy tape, but I dunno if it is any different or not.
I super glued the end of the wrap down though, so it shouldn't go anywhere lol.

I like what I hear about Tesa cloth tape though, I think I'll go down that route on the shorty, looking original won't be a priority on that.

I used this on my loom behind the dash. Its definitely a quality tape and adhesive is awesome. I even unwrapped a section and rewrapped it and felt it would still stick to its self well. Almost feels like velcro and not sticky reside.
The only down side is its quite thick and not stretchy so not very good at wrapping around junctions.
I used it behind the dash as it would be slightly less noisy on loose sections that might rattle.
Im sure the adhesive and heat resistantce of it would hold up in exposed areas but it might look grubby real quick being cloth.
Hopefully that means the adhesive won't turn into a dogs breakfast at the first sign of heat, or over time.
I've also wondered if it would get dirty quickly, suppose time will tell.

How’s the resto going Jimmy James ?


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It's hardly going lol.
Haven't had too much time to put into it lately. Did find more rust though, and as much as I'd to pretend I didn't see it, that doesn't seem like a viable long term strategy lol.
 

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07 Black Patrol 3.0 / 04 Grey 3.0 Patrol / 01 3.0 Patrol
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1,544 Posts
Great thread James!!
I don't know the last time I read every post on a thread,ohh well my night is gone here in Ireland but so worth it reading all this,thanks for the laughs!!😅👌🤣
Great work on the Patrol, I can't wait to see more!! 😁🍿
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #118
Great thread James!!
I don't know the last time I read every post on a thread,ohh well my night is gone here in Ireland but so worth it reading all this,thanks for the laughs!!😅👌🤣
Great work on the Patrol, I can't wait to see more!! 😁🍿
Thanks for the kind words Dan.
Glad you got a couple of laughs throughout the thread, for me it's one of those if you'll don't laugh you'll cry type situations...

There hasn't been much in the way of updates lately, hopefully that will change sooner rather than later. But that's dependant on how much free time and money I have lol.
 

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2018 Mazda BT50 Dual cab
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10,496 Posts
Thanks for the kind words Dan.
Glad you got a couple of laughs throughout the thread, for me it's one of those if you'll don't laugh you'll cry type situations...

There hasn't been much in the way of updates lately, hopefully that will change sooner rather than later. But that's dependant on how much free time and money I have lol.
Your in lock down, plenty of free time now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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10,961 Posts
Discussion Starter #120
Your in lock down, plenty of free time now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Hopefully, I have a few business reviews and reports and crap to get through. Y'know, the exciting stuff.
I'll try and smash through them in the mornings and get a bit done in the arvo.
 
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