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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Bit of a demonstration I mocked up of how the shackles should sit when I relocate the hangers. It'll be stronger too since they'll be just under the crossmember:
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
The N/A clutch finally started slipping tonight, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did given it was never designed to take this much torque and was already worn out from the mullet-wearing bogan of a previous owner I bought the ute off; no offence to other people... uhh... wearing mullets.

I do have a turbo flywheel here ready to be bolted to the engine, and I've heard a ZD clutch and pressure plate will fit the turbo flywheel (plenty of options available then), but it means either taking the engine or gearbox out to do the job, so I won't be driving it for a while. May as well do some other engine/gearbox out maintenance at the same time, just need to think of things that need doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Make a list of the jobs that need doing, then work out which job (or which set of jobs) needs doing sooner: engine or transmission. Then rip that one out.
Yep after a little thought I’ll likely pull the engine out, put new gaskets and seals through it, check for cracks in the head while it’s off, put it back on anyway because I can’t afford a new head, and then hopefully the whole thing won’t leak oil out the sides, rocker cover gasket, sump gasket, and rear main.

Dunno if I’ll bother putting the N/A in temporarily while the turbo motor is out, I’ll probably just end up driving the family around commodore again for a while.
It needs some love too, oil change is due, give it a wash, get a new tire because I took slightly too aggressive of a racing line around a corner and clipped the rear wheel on the curb (whoops); y’know normal things…

Gearbox on the patrol isn’t as much of a concern, 5th gear is pretty whiney, so I’d say the teeth are getting pretty worn out, but it’s nowhere near as easy to fix as new gaskets in the engine. Assuming it all goes smoothly, that is. Which I don’t have a history of to be fair. Worst case I accidentally do irreversible damage to the motor and throw the turbo gear on the N/A while I look for a new SD33T, or just look for other engine options.
In any case, it’s the engine that needs leaks fixing, so it’ll be coming out regardless. Maybe I’ll hold off on getting the clutch itself until I know the engine is all good.

Wow brain dump in a reply. I did kinda write that as I was thinking so my thoughts just laid themselves down on the screen lol


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Yep after a little thought I’ll likely pull the engine out, put new gaskets and seals through it, check for cracks in the head while it’s off, put it back on anyway because I can’t afford a new head, and then hopefully the whole thing won’t leak oil out the sides, rocker cover gasket, sump gasket, and rear main.

Dunno if I’ll bother putting the N/A in temporarily while the turbo motor is out, I’ll probably just end up driving the family around commodore again for a while.
It needs some love too, oil change is due, give it a wash, get a new tire because I took slightly too aggressive of a racing line around a corner and clipped the rear wheel on the curb (whoops); y’know normal things…

Gearbox on the patrol isn’t as much of a concern, 5th gear is pretty whiney, so I’d say the teeth are getting pretty worn out, but it’s nowhere near as easy to fix as new gaskets in the engine. Assuming it all goes smoothly, that is. Which I don’t have a history of to be fair. Worst case I accidentally do irreversible damage to the motor and throw the turbo gear on the N/A while I look for a new SD33T, or just look for other engine options.
In any case, it’s the engine that needs leaks fixing, so it’ll be coming out regardless. Maybe I’ll hold off on getting the clutch itself until I know the engine is all good.

Wow brain dump in a reply. I did kinda write that as I was thinking so my thoughts just laid themselves down on the screen lol
Happy to help :LOL:.
 

· I Have Imaginary Friends
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Yep after a little thought I’ll likely pull the engine out, put new gaskets and seals through it, check for cracks in the head while it’s off, put it back on anyway because I can’t afford a new head, and then hopefully the whole thing won’t leak oil out the sides, rocker cover gasket, sump gasket, and rear main.

Dunno if I’ll bother putting the N/A in temporarily while the turbo motor is out, I’ll probably just end up driving the family around commodore again for a while.
It needs some love too, oil change is due, give it a wash, get a new tire because I took slightly too aggressive of a racing line around a corner and clipped the rear wheel on the curb (whoops); y’know normal things…

Gearbox on the patrol isn’t as much of a concern, 5th gear is pretty whiney, so I’d say the teeth are getting pretty worn out, but it’s nowhere near as easy to fix as new gaskets in the engine. Assuming it all goes smoothly, that is. Which I don’t have a history of to be fair. Worst case I accidentally do irreversible damage to the motor and throw the turbo gear on the N/A while I look for a new SD33T, or just look for other engine options.
In any case, it’s the engine that needs leaks fixing, so it’ll be coming out regardless. Maybe I’ll hold off on getting the clutch itself until I know the engine is all good.

Wow brain dump in a reply. I did kinda write that as I was thinking so my thoughts just laid themselves down on the screen lol


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In my trade, we would call it ‘Writing a first draft’. 🙄🤣🤣
 
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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
In my trade, we would call it ‘Writing a first draft’.
Yeah, usually you’d edit that to be more concise but apparently I didn’t think of that at 12:30something am…


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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
At a bit of a crossroads here. Been thinking about the clutch replacement and what needs doing alongside that.

On one hand, I like the SD33T, I want to keep trying to use it and make it work well, and it's what I've got to work with at the moment.

On the other hand, if I open up the motor and find that the head is cracked, or both surfaces need decking, or something else is critically wrong that requires a rebuild on the motor, it would be much cheaper for me to look for alternative options.

At the moment I'm up for a clutch and some gaskets, head bolts etc., or just a clutch if I'm willing to leave the mild leaks for now (no signs of bad head gasket other than the oil on the sides of the block), and if I go for the gaskets I could be opening up to a world of trouble. So really not sure what to do at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 · (Edited)
One cheaper option I've considered is a holden/buick 3.8 with the 4spd auto. I do have the divorced transfercase and tailshafts to match, and have experience with the engine. People in the US seem to think they're an awesome motor and it seems plenty of P-platers beat them to death with few issues, so perhaps it'd tug the 2.2 tonne MK along alright?

I wouldn't think the transmission would be an issue, if it's the same 4l60E that is used behind the LS motors then people put them in GU's with V8's and no issue, so it'd be alright with the 3.8 I think.

Or a ford 4.0 Barra, would only be N/A though because
a) expense,
b) not trying to be stupid here.

The other option is bolting all the turbo gear to the N/A engine I've got in the shed, then I lose out on the good benefits of the turbo motor though, and can forget about chasing somewhat reliable power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #191 ·
Just found out that while playing with the glow plug timer the other day I stuffed all of my almost new glow plugs 🤦‍♂️
Time to get new ones of those as well then. I was testing to see whether it would idle with the timers "afterglow" feature, where it clicks the solenoid on and off for second intervals for an amount of time you can set. Didn't make it idle better bone cold, it'll always need a small amount of throttle until it's warmed and loosened up a bit.
So now I can't start it, AND I can't drive it properly! Ahh well, I swapped on the monster-truck spec 33's off the ute today to see how it'd look, pretty illegal with the tread poke out of the flares, but it's fun to look at nonetheless 😮😆
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Land vehicle

Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Land vehicle Car

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
I dunno why I keep considering other engines…
I love the SD, the only reason I’ll consider something else is if I open up the motor and the head turns out to be cracked, because there's no way I'm finding another 33T head in decent condition for a decent price anymore. Worst case I suppose I could use the head off the N/A motor, but
a) there's no telling whether it'll be good if I remove it, despite being in seemingly better condition than the 33T
b) I understand there's steam ports missing from the N/A head that are in the turbo head, and possibly differently designed intake/exhaust ports?

So not an ideal solution. If worst comes to worst I'll look at other engines, or try to find a replacement turbo motor, but I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. I'm going to put in my old glow plugs which do work (barely) and take it for a quick drive tomorrow to test out these muddies with the locker, then I'll bring it home, park it in front of the shed (doesn't fit inside), and start tearing down the head to prepare it to be removed. Once it's off I'll be able to inspect it to see whether it's worth keeping, hopefully it is and I'll start trying to source gaskets, a clutch, and an engine crane, ready to pull it out and do some work on it.


Also can't remember if I told this already but I got some paint colour matched to the car so I can finally start sourcing a clean drivers GQ door to paint. I'll do some touch ups in other spots too if the colour is close enough. Apparently it's closest to a "Tata" colour, which is odd, but the guy at the shop said to keep the can and he'll mix up new paint based on that code if I ever need it again :D
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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
Well done. The above line interested me, but when I got to the part that said previously you would have backed off at 80k to keep EGT in check, my doesn't answer the question I would ask, was there a torque improvement noticed along the way. That is what my CCIC did more than anything else.
Oh I just realised I never answered your question, honestly, I didn’t notice a big difference in power or torque, which is backed up by a recent dyno run I did where I made about 3hp more and it was hard to judge extra torque because the previous run was done before the regear.
On the highway, if I accelerate from 80ish upwards there’s definitely a noticeable improvement in time it takes to get to 110, it just generally climbs in speed quicker, but not by a lot. I think the real improvement will be that I can run more fuel now safely which is where the motor will perform better, and once I get the 2052 on I’ll be able to improve the airflow significantly more, and again run more fuel.
At the moment the main thing the cooler has done was greatly lean out the fuel mixture, which obviously made the EGT’s much improved and made it better to drive. For reference, before my afr under full load started out around 16.5:1 and ended out at about 20:1, whereas now it’s much better. I’ve just realised I don’t have a photo of the more recent dyno sheet, so can’t remember the new afr figures,
I’ll post one up later to compare.

In fairness, the SD33T isn’t a performance motor, small mods don’t gain much in power, and I think the far more efficient ZD30 would see a greater improvement going from non-Intercooled to fmic. From the cross-country to the fmic though I wouldn’t expect too much, unless the size of the front-mount is significantly bigger.
 

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One cheaper option I've considered is a holden/buick 3.8 with the 4spd auto. I do have the divorced transfercase and tailshafts to match, and have experience with the engine. People in the US seem to think they're an awesome motor and it seems plenty of P-platers beat them to death with few issues, so perhaps it'd tug the 2.2 tonne MK along alright?

I wouldn't think the transmission would be an issue, if it's the same 4l60E that is used behind the LS motors then people put them in GU's with V8's and no issue, so it'd be alright with the 3.8 I think.

Or a ford 4.0 Barra, would only be N/A though because
a) expense,
b) not trying to be stupid here.

The other option is bolting all the turbo gear to the N/A engine I've got in the shed, then I lose out on the good benefits of the turbo motor though, and can forget about chasing somewhat reliable power.
Glad you decided to keep the old pig, doesn't matter what you replace it with, you'd have missed it.

I looked into the 3.8 option, engine and trans are cheap, but its the other costs that add up, wiring, ECU, mounts, fuel system upgrades etc.
There's a bloke down in Tas that's working on a Barra to MK 5spd adapter, you'll need an L28 gearbox input shaft which would be worthwhile since . Barra is a nicer donk than a 3.8, much smoother and more torque lower down. More potential for future upgrades too, and if you're sold on an auto, there are adapters for Barra to GM tranmissions so theres no risk of having to use a BTR lol.
But once you go down the rabbit hole of changing mounts and wiring with a divorced transfer, your only limits are imagination and money, the Patrol is already designed to fit an I6 and 5spd box and has a wide engine bay, so plenty of engines will physically fit.

New cyl heads are still available from Nissan for the SD. They don't come cheap though, if you really get stuck I do have a couple of heads that hold pressure but they have cracks so couldn't guarantee they'll last. Also if the head on your N/A is alright you can drill the steam ports into it, if its an early one and doesn't have them.
 

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WHAT......SELLING THE MQ....:oops:
I can't believe it....😖
No...
It's not true.....


Tell me it's not true.....
Even if it's to get a gu....
Why not get a cheap corolla for a daily & keep the troll, after all that work....😞
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
WHAT......SELLING THE MQ....:oops:
I can't believe it....😖
No...
It's not true.....


Tell me it's not true.....
Even if it's to get a gu....
Why not get a cheap corolla for a daily & keep the troll, after all that work....😞
Yeah not happening haha, Patrol’s staying and the Calais is the daily until either the Patrol is on the road again, or my brother gets his P’s in August next year and needs the Calais.

I am starting to consider a Getz or something if I can find a cheap one, while the Patrol is off the road I’ll probably call Shannon’s and see if I can pause the insurance.
not getting a Corolla though, you trying to make me poor?! Toyota tax applies to everything lol
 
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Yeah not happening haha, Patrol’s staying and the Calais is the daily until either the Patrol is on the road again, or my brother gets his P’s in August next year and needs the Calais.

I am starting to consider a Getz or something if I can find a cheap one, while the Patrol is off the road I’ll probably call Shannon’s and see if I can pause the insurance.
not getting a Corolla though, you trying to make me poor?! Toyota tax applies to everything lol
There might be a Lancer sedan for sale in Adelaide....
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Glad you decided to keep the old pig, doesn't matter what you replace it with, you'd have missed it.

I looked into the 3.8 option, engine and trans are cheap, but its the other costs that add up, wiring, ECU, mounts, fuel system upgrades etc.
There's a bloke down in Tas that's working on a Barra to MK 5spd adapter, you'll need an L28 gearbox input shaft which would be worthwhile since . Barra is a nicer donk than a 3.8, much smoother and more torque lower down. More potential for future upgrades too, and if you're sold on an auto, there are adapters for Barra to GM transmissions so there's no risk of having to use a BTR lol.
But once you go down the rabbit hole of changing mounts and wiring with a divorced transfer, your only limits are imagination and money, the Patrol is already designed to fit an I6 and 5spd box and has a wide engine bay, so plenty of engines will physically fit.

New cyl heads are still available from Nissan for the SD. They don't come cheap though, if you really get stuck I do have a couple of heads that hold pressure but they have cracks so couldn't guarantee they'll last. Also if the head on your N/A is alright you can drill the steam ports into it, if its an early one and doesn't have them.
Yeah in the end I couldn't bring myself to sell it, I think I've got the MQ flu :p
I'll definitely go with best case scenario which is that I can use my engine, my head, new gaskets, until I know otherwise. I do have the divorced transfer that the wagon came with still here so someday maybe there'll be an opportunity, who knows? Ooh maybe that's for when electric conversions become cheap and commonplace on old cars...

I didn't know new heads were still available, not sure I'm ready to hear the cost of one though haha, if it comes to needing a new head I likely won't be getting one from Mr Nissan, even if that is the best long-term solution, just too much upfront cost for my current income. That Barra adapter definitely has me listening, seems like a cool opportunity, again depending on price.

Anyway, this is where I'm at now:
Motor vehicle Car Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive fuel system

I got most of the stuff disconnected from the head, intending to take it off while the engine was still in the car to inspect it before I get an engine crane, but the day before yesterday I went and picked up a second hand 2 ton crane for $200, so not too bad in my eyes. The engine will come out first, then I'll take the head off.

On a side note, I've already found a way that I'll probably make more power just with a gasket kit:
Motor vehicle Eyewear Vision care Table Automotive design

I don't know what ebay brand of gaskets the previous owner of this engine used, but clearly the head gasket and rear main are leaking,
AND THE MANIFOLD GASKET DOESN'T EVEN LINE UP WITH THE FRIGGIN PORTS!?!?
Someone didn't do much measuring when they designed their mass-produce gasket kit 😠
Hopefully some genuine gaskets will have the exhaust freed up a little.
Man, I couldn't believe it when I saw that, the camera doesn't do justice to how much of the port is covered up, and how much of a "wall" of gasket there is just blocking off exhaust flow.

On I side note, I've now learned that the intake manifold doesn't flow nicely into the ports either, they're this far apart (elongated ones covered in silicon):
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Rim

And the manifold treats the 2 ports as one, so there's not a smooth transition from the intake manifold into the actual intake ports, it just hits the wall in the middle and has to find it's own way in, so I'm considering trying to make some kind of splitter to go in the manifold that directs the air either way, doesn't have to be perfect, anything will be better than the factory setup. The other option is when I get Dats cool fab to mount up the zd turbo and make up an exhuast, maybe I can inquire about a custom intake manifold to see the price of that.
On the other hand, maybe the factory manifold design is fine and I'm overreacting, but I understand the basics of how air likes to flow and I'm thinking there should at least be a rounded edge there for the air to flow around.

Here's what's come out so far:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Vehicle Automotive exterior

When I put it all back together, I'm going to try something that probably won't be too popular, but I want to give it a go anyway. When I got the wagon, it came with the radiator, which the P/O used with the 351, and it had a set of thermo fans attached to it. 1 big one taking up probably 2/3 of the rad, and 2 smaller ones taking up the rest. I want to try those out instead of the factory clutch fan.
I know a clutch fan will always bring more air than an electric thermo, but I've never had a fan shroud on this radiator, and when the thermostat was stuck open the water temps barely went over 60* around town, and didn't go much higher on my Fraser trip. So I figure this engine isn't in any danger of overheating, and given that the thermos have their own shroud they'll definitely pull an equal amount of air though the radiator to the shroudless clutch fan. On the highway I'll comfortably be able to just turn the fans off, and when 4wding I can leave probably just the small ones on. It's just something I'm going to try since I've got all the stuff already here able to be bolted on, and I'll see how it goes. I'll also have some kind of water temp sensor with a controller that can turn them on automatically when it gets to certain temps, but I've got to figure out how I'm going to do that yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
I also just realised it's 5 days until 1 year on the forum for me :)
 

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I got most of the stuff disconnected from the head, intending to take it off while the engine was still in the car to inspect it before I get an engine crane, but the day before yesterday I went and picked up a second hand 2 ton crane for $200, so not too bad in my eyes. The engine will come out first, then I'll take the head off.

On a side note, I've already found a way that I'll probably make more power just with a gasket kit:
View attachment 545102
I don't know what ebay brand of gaskets the previous owner of this engine used, but clearly the head gasket and rear main are leaking,
AND THE MANIFOLD GASKET DOESN'T EVEN LINE UP WITH THE FRIGGIN PORTS!?!?
Someone didn't do much measuring when they designed their mass-produce gasket kit 😠
Hopefully some genuine gaskets will have the exhaust freed up a little.
Man, I couldn't believe it when I saw that, the camera doesn't do justice to how much of the port is covered up, and how much of a "wall" of gasket there is just blocking off exhaust flow.

On I side note, I've now learned that the intake manifold doesn't flow nicely into the ports either, they're this far apart (elongated ones covered in silicon):
View attachment 545103
And the manifold treats the 2 ports as one, so there's not a smooth transition from the intake manifold into the actual intake ports, it just hits the wall in the middle and has to find it's own way in, so I'm considering trying to make some kind of splitter to go in the manifold that directs the air either way, doesn't have to be perfect, anything will be better than the factory setup. The other option is when I get Dats cool fab to mount up the zd turbo and make up an exhuast, maybe I can inquire about a custom intake manifold to see the price of that.
On the other hand, maybe the factory manifold design is fine and I'm overreacting, but I understand the basics of how air likes to flow and I'm thinking there should at least be a rounded edge there for the air to flow around.
Sounds like a good score on the crane (y).

I'd definitely recommend having a yarn with @OldMav before doing anything WRT the intake manifold or head. Apparently Mr Nissan has a tendency to get things right that don't look right when it come to airflow.
 
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