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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
Not doing anything more tonight, got to go deliver some pizzas soon, but I felt a bit of deja vu when I put this picture together:
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Motor vehicle

I also used a rattle can to paint the rad support black yesterday as a test to see if it would look better than the mismatch of colours that was there before, and it definitely looks good, so I'll go over and do the whole thing properly, maybe the engine bay too, at some point.
And yes the bonnet will come off before I actually pull the engine out
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Yeah in the end I couldn't bring myself to sell it, I think I've got the MQ flu :p
I'll definitely go with best case scenario which is that I can use my engine, my head, new gaskets, until I know otherwise. I do have the divorced transfer that the wagon came with still here so someday maybe there'll be an opportunity, who knows? Ooh maybe that's for when electric conversions become cheap and commonplace on old cars...

I didn't know new heads were still available, not sure I'm ready to hear the cost of one though haha, if it comes to needing a new head I likely won't be getting one from Mr Nissan, even if that is the best long-term solution, just too much upfront cost for my current income. That Barra adapter definitely has me listening, seems like a cool opportunity, again depending on price.

Anyway, this is where I'm at now:
View attachment 545101
I got most of the stuff disconnected from the head, intending to take it off while the engine was still in the car to inspect it before I get an engine crane, but the day before yesterday I went and picked up a second hand 2 ton crane for $200, so not too bad in my eyes. The engine will come out first, then I'll take the head off.

On a side note, I've already found a way that I'll probably make more power just with a gasket kit:
View attachment 545102
I don't know what ebay brand of gaskets the previous owner of this engine used, but clearly the head gasket and rear main are leaking,
AND THE MANIFOLD GASKET DOESN'T EVEN LINE UP WITH THE FRIGGIN PORTS!?!?
Someone didn't do much measuring when they designed their mass-produce gasket kit 😠
Hopefully some genuine gaskets will have the exhaust freed up a little.
Man, I couldn't believe it when I saw that, the camera doesn't do justice to how much of the port is covered up, and how much of a "wall" of gasket there is just blocking off exhaust flow.

On I side note, I've now learned that the intake manifold doesn't flow nicely into the ports either, they're this far apart (elongated ones covered in silicon):
View attachment 545103
And the manifold treats the 2 ports as one, so there's not a smooth transition from the intake manifold into the actual intake ports, it just hits the wall in the middle and has to find it's own way in, so I'm considering trying to make some kind of splitter to go in the manifold that directs the air either way, doesn't have to be perfect, anything will be better than the factory setup. The other option is when I get Dats cool fab to mount up the zd turbo and make up an exhuast, maybe I can inquire about a custom intake manifold to see the price of that.
On the other hand, maybe the factory manifold design is fine and I'm overreacting, but I understand the basics of how air likes to flow and I'm thinking there should at least be a rounded edge there for the air to flow around.

Here's what's come out so far:
View attachment 545104
When I put it all back together, I'm going to try something that probably won't be too popular, but I want to give it a go anyway. When I got the wagon, it came with the radiator, which the P/O used with the 351, and it had a set of thermo fans attached to it. 1 big one taking up probably 2/3 of the rad, and 2 smaller ones taking up the rest. I want to try those out instead of the factory clutch fan.
I know a clutch fan will always bring more air than an electric thermo, but I've never had a fan shroud on this radiator, and when the thermostat was stuck open the water temps barely went over 60* around town, and didn't go much higher on my Fraser trip. So I figure this engine isn't in any danger of overheating, and given that the thermos have their own shroud they'll definitely pull an equal amount of air though the radiator to the shroudless clutch fan. On the highway I'll comfortably be able to just turn the fans off, and when 4wding I can leave probably just the small ones on. It's just something I'm going to try since I've got all the stuff already here able to be bolted on, and I'll see how it goes. I'll also have some kind of water temp sensor with a controller that can turn them on automatically when it gets to certain temps, but I've got to figure out how I'm going to do that yet.
They are an easy old rig to get attached to. In between being complete piles of junk, they can be pretty good.

I won't tell ya how much a new head is, but it makes a Barra conversion look pretty good, no matter what it ends up costing. But if curiosity gets the best of you the latest revision P/N is 11041-C8702 and Nizzbits, Amayama, Impex etc will be able to give you a price.

Those aftermarket generic perforated manifold gaskets are junk, the fit is crap as you've discovered and they'll blow if you look at them the wrong way which I assume is why someone has used RTV on them, still appears to have leaked though. It is worthwhile getting both manifolds machined while they are off as they rely on the same studs/nuts/washers to seal.
Genuine is the way to for head/manifold gaskets. 11044-C8701 and 14035-C8701 respectively for latest revisions of P/N.
 
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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
They are an easy old rig to get attached to. In between being complete piles of junk, they can be pretty good.

I won't tell ya how much a new head is, but it makes a Barra conversion look pretty good, no matter what it ends up costing. But if curiosity gets the best of you the latest revision P/N is 11041-C8702 and Nizzbits, Amayama, Impex etc will be able to give you a price.

Those aftermarket generic perforated manifold gaskets are junk, the fit is crap as you've discovered and they'll blow if you look at them the wrong way which I assume is why someone has used RTV on them, still appears to have leaked though. It is worthwhile getting both manifolds machined while they are off as they rely on the same studs/nuts/washers to seal.
Genuine is the way to for head/manifold gaskets. 11044-C8701 and 14035-C8701 respectively for latest revisions of P/N.
Thanks for those part numbers, for the gaskets is it the same people to inquire to as the heads? I'll see who's got the best price. If they're all pretty similar I'll likely go with Nizzbits as I already have experience dealing with Garry, and he got me the suspension bushes very quickly, I was very happy with his service.

And yes, I'll definitely be getting the manifolds machined flat, hopefully when I straight-edge test the head it shows up below the 0,008" threshold, maybe I'll just get it machined anyway, apparently it's not too expensive.

I've been looking across some of your old threads on SD33T heads:

Along with some binder planet stuff:

And decided that I'm going to get the valve stem seals replaced and get a professional opinion on whether the seats need doing or valves replacing.
I'll also be closely inspecting the pistons and sleeves to see what kind of condition they're in, here's to hoping when the motor had gaskets done they also did those as well, and more importantly, did them properly.
I'll definitely be taking off the oil cooler and doing the recommended cleaning on it, I'd be crazy not to while the engine is out.

Assuming all is good, new genuine gaskets and get the valves checked, bolt her all back together and keep on heading towards that GT2052V 18psi end goal :)
If all is not good, i.e. cracks in major parts of the head or pistons, scored liners etc... well let's not go there yet.

Tomorrow is a new day of motoring ahead, we'll see what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 · (Edited)
Oh I almost forgot,
Here I was on August 31st last year, almost exactly 1 year ago, already well and truly down the rabbit hole at this point:
Wheel Tire Truck Automotive tire Hood


AAnd here I am today, undoing all of last years hard work:
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle

Crazy how much bigger the 33" mud tires on 15" big offset rims look, than the 33" all terrains on -22 16" rims.

I've decided that all the painful experience of trying to get the engine disconnected from the gearbox is probably worth doing in reverse with the N/A to still have a running car, especially since I might be biting off more than I can chew with pulling down the motor, something I've never done before.
So at some point this week I'll get the N/A on the crane and put it in the turbo motors place for a while. It'll free up some space in the shed too, or at least it would if I wasn't going to be spreading the turbo motor out on a couple tables and a stand.

Also turns out with the 2 tonne crane on the longest setting and the tires with no air in them, I just about don't need to take the wheels off to get the engine out, even with that huge chain on it, which is so much better than if I'd gotten a second hand 1 tonne crane and had to use a shorter setting, and go through the same stuff I did at the start of this build thread to get the engine in.

And yes, those filters have been changed in between pictures, the photos make it look like I don't take care of it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #205 ·
No matter what happens, whether I’m running on turbo diesel power, N/A lack of power, or petrol fuel bills, I’ll be at the Fraser meet up next year, wouldn’t miss it for the world 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
Oh and one more thing, we tested it yesterday on the turbo flywheel I've got here, a ZD30 clutch bolts straight on to the SD33T flywheel, so parts availability will be good for a long time yet. Also means I've got plenty of options for clutches.

As an experiment Dad suggested we could try to fit up a vacuum-assisted master cylinder, probably also from a ZD, to help if I get a H/D clutch. In saying that a standard spec clutch will well and truly hold the power I'll be making, considering it's probably still going to be less than a standard 3 litre. Vacuum assisted cylinder would be fun though.

It's my build thread so I'm going to keep waffling on here, I need to get a vacuum gauge and test how much vacuum the TD42 alternator produces, if it's the same as the ZD, perfect, the GT2052 will actuate as normal, but if it's less, will that affect it? Or will it just mean I'll have to adjust the stop screw a little?
 

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I Have Imaginary Friends
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AFAIK you will need to use a vacuum cylinder to ‘store’ the vacuum.
 
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Discussion Starter · #208 ·

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I Have Imaginary Friends
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Clutch, if using a vacuum assist the tank holds the vacuum so you are not relying solely on the pump, if using vacuum for clutch, why not use for brakes too? More problems have I set for young master. 🤔😉🤣
 
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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
Clutch, if using a vacuum assist the tank holds the vacuum so you are not relying solely on the pump, if using vacuum for clutch, why not use for brakes too? More problems have I set for young master. 🤔😉🤣
Oh righto, I wasn't aware of such a 'tank', interesting. So you're saying the same tank could be plumbed into the line before the brake booster to help with braking too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
Correct. GQs had vacuum canisters on the brake booster line, and the diff-lock line (if applicable), but not the clutch line.
Did GQ's have a vacuum assisted clutch from factory?
This is all very interesting, I've never heard of these canisters before
 

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Did GQ's have a vacuum assisted clutch from factory?
This is all very interesting, I've never heard of these canisters before
Mine certainly does, but I have a feeling not all of them did :unsure:. The canisters were only fitted to diesels AFAIK, because of the limited capacity of the vacuum pump, compared with the much larger vacuum generating capacity of a petrol engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
Hopefully the next post after this is the results of me taking the head off the motor, but one more post before that.
Yesterday I went and picked up a mint set of GQ knuckles for $50, and for good reason.

As some people know, one of the ways people used to get the factory tie rod up away from rocks on GQ’s was to bolt on a set of MQ knuckles, as they have the tie rod up higher in front of the diff instead of down low behind it.

Well the flip side to that is that the drag link has to connect directly to the tie rod, and then onto the knuckle, and sits just below the centreline of the diff. This is fine with the factory steering setup, but with a solid drag link it creates a couple problems. Because the solid link is on an angle, and connected to the tie rod, as the wheel is turned left, it rotates the tie rod forward, and THEN starts steering, and vice versa backwards. This creates unfixable play in the steering, as it’s a result of the tie rod needing to be able to roll forward and backwards so it doesn’t bind up.

Basically, I’ve gone and bought a set of GQ knuckles to try, because it will reduce the angle of the drag link, reducing bump steer, as well as more directly steer the wheels when the wheel is turned, giving it less chance of death wobble in the future, as well as generally feeling better to steer.
I want to make the solid drag link work as well as I possibly can, and this seems like a viable solution to me.

Here’s the factory setup + solid link, and you can see the drag link attaches short of the knuckle, increasing the angle it’s on. Also it attaches slightly below the centreline of the diff:


And here’s the GQ knuckles I bought, which will lengthen the drag link, as well as moving its attachment point up higher, both of which will reduce bump steer. The drag link will also be directly attached to the knuckle, so less play and more direct steering:

I will have to do some mocking up on my spare diff to see whether the tie rod will hit either the leafs or the diff carrier, and if so I’ll have to have a think about that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 ·
Do you need an engine stand?
If you’ve got one to borrow? that’d be awesome, how long don’t you need it for though? Might be a couple weeks, might be a couple months, not sure yet.
 
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If you’ve got one to borrow? that’d be awesome, how long don’t you need it for though? Might be a couple weeks, might be a couple months, not sure yet.
Well.. let me see.. I haven’t needed it since Oct 2016 and have no intention of taking my engine out again anyway so you can pretty much use it for as long as you need it.
Its this one.. I modified it and added the 2 castors on the front so it doesn’t tip over. You can grab the balancer bar again too if you need it.
The upright bar is just sitting in the bottom piece of square tube so it’s easy to transport.


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Valve Plumbing valve Gas
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·
So, thanks to John, I've now got the engine on a stand, and the head off. Thanks again for letting me borrow it, it's a good bit of equipment.

I've made a seperate thread for the engine so I don't double the size of this one, continuing there:
 

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Also some excitement, we got dad's old factory ZD30 clutch out of a box tucked away, and it is a PERFECT bolt-up to the SD33T flywheel. They used the exact same bolt pattern, and clutch size, and we're fairly certain the throwout bearing will fit onto the SD clutch fork and bearing seat... thingy.

So many options now, with the smaller amount of power I'm making even a completely standard ZD clutch will never slip under power, so we'll see what's available when it comes to buying time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #220 · (Edited)
Been a while since I've visited this thread, been too busy on the rebuild thread.
Just ducked back down to the guy's place where I got the new bottom end engine from and picked up a new interior piece, one step closer to having a complete (yet still unfinished) interior, lets see who can spot it:
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Car seat cover Steering wheel


I also picked up the dash that matched the kms on the new engine. I won't be using the whole thing, but I'm going to see if the tacho works properly. Even after I've resoldered all the pins on mine it still plays up a bit. Also Dad's going to steal the trip meter mechanism out of this new one if he can because the farm ute's odo works but not the trip meter. Also the needles are straight, winning.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


And lastly I got a new airbox lid from him that has the intake facing towards the snorkel hole, so I don't have that stupid 180* into 90* bend that I've been dealing with ever since I connected the airbox:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gas Engineering Composite material

(top right of next picture is old airbox lid orientation, points forward towards the headlights, new one points almost straight towards the snorkel)
Hood Automotive air manifold Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design
 
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