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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Car Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Land vehicle

Bit of a brainstorm of how I might like the front bar to look. Not sure yet, just decided to draw up a couple ideas and this is the one I'm liking the most so far. It's a bit hard to see, but it'd almost be as simple as a long bit of rectangle tube with the ends pie-cut and bent up. More brainstorming and drawing is required anyway.

Then maybe make bent tube flares that would almost act as brush bars, which I also drew in the above picture, like what's on this Bundera:
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Vehicle


And some fairly simple rock sliders as well, not sure if I'd go with fully tube for looks or partly square tube for ease. these actually look quite good and would be much easier to make given that there's less tube notching involved:
Automotive tire Wood Gas Engineering Machine


Probably going to start looking for a cheapish second hand MIG welder on marketplace when we get back from Victoria and just start cranking out practice. After the engine rebuild of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #222 ·
I know it's on a Jeep, but this is actually a decent representation similar to how my drawing was supposed to look:
Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Vehicle Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 · (Edited)
Or I just modify the ARB a bit to bring it up to suit the body lift and maybe tuck it slightly closer to the body as it hangs a long way off the front.

Edit:
Ooh here's a pretty good one, tires are a bit big though 😆
focus is on the bar
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood


The aim is kind of factoryish bumper look but with the strength to handle rock scrapes and general accidental abuse

I don't know how well it comes across through the posts but I've got ideas in my head that I think will only make sense if and when they eventually come to fruition. Hopefully I can start to learn to fabricate my ideas into reality sometime in the next year.

Also don't mind if these posts are a bit hard to follow along, it's almost 2am 😬
 

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Discussion Starter · #224 ·
Alright so I finally decided to pull my head in and get the N/A engine in the car.

Why?

Well…

I was invited yesterday to an impromptu DI day trip tomorrow…

So last night I got the engine mostly prepped to go in the car, bolting on the 12v etc. and today it’s going in, hopefully running and driving by this afternoon 😬.

I guess I’ll see if I’m capable of making it to the trip tomorrow, and I’ll get to remember whether the N/A was healthy or not.
Anyway, back into the grind now
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
What’s that? Oh yeah, ZD30 clutch bolted straight on the back of the SD33 (SD33T flywheel):


Also ZD throwout bearing pressed straight onto where the old SD one was:



And I just need to do a couple small things and get it in the car: (photos from last night)





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What’s that? Oh yeah, ZD30 clutch bolted straight on the back of the SD33 (SD33T flywheel):


Also ZD throwout bearing pressed straight onto where the old SD one was:



And I just need to do a couple small things and get it in the car: (photos from last night)





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Well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
So bit of an update on that lol,

We didn't get the engine in and finished on Tuesday like I hoped, I had a mate from work come over to help but we had real trouble getting the input shaft into the spigot bearing, turns out I just had to be reeeeaaly fussy with the clutch alignment drill bit and the angle of the engine when installing it.
So got it actually running Wednesday, and tried to go for a test drive, but it turns out it needs to come out again.

Basically, because I'm using the ZD clutch (actually swapped the turbo SD clutch plate on because of problems, then found out it wasn't because of the clutch plate) and turbo flywheel, the whole assembly sits out further than the N/A SD clutch. The N/A clutch is smaller in diameter, and also the flywheel and pressure plate are thinner, so it doesn't sit as far away from the motor as the thicker turbo stuff. Apparently because of this, Nissan had to change the bearing carrier on the turbo engines to be a thinner one, so that the thrust bearing didn't constantly put pressure on the pressure plate.

I didn't know that, so using the turbo clutch gear and the N/A thrust bearing carrier, once I bolted the engine to the gearbox there was already pressure starting to disengage the clutch. Still didn't know, so we went for a quick test drive and if you give it slightly more than the smallest amount of throttle you can, it just slips. So engine needs to come out again and I need to source a turbo thrust bearing carrier (which I think I have done, same guy I bought the new bottom end off), and then put it all back together.

On a side note, the N/A engine is waaaay healthier than my old turbo engine. Heaps less blowby, and it'll almost idle dead cold as soon as all 6 cylinders are firing (24v glow plugs don't like 12v very much, but it works). If I can get the motivation to pull the engine out again and change that bearing carrier before I get the 33T rebuilt, I honestly don't think It'll be too much slower than the old turbo engine...
I'm quite happy in these 2 videos... and that's because it was before I knew about the clutch problem :rolleyes::LOL:
 
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Was wondering about the smoke. Engine sounds fine. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
And that right there is why you need to pair the turbo flywheel/clutch with the turbo thrust bearing carrier:

I’m actually glad this has happened now, because I know for when I actually go to put the rebuilt turbo engine in


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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
Got the engine out yesterday, swapped the thrust bearing carriers over to the turbo one, put the ZD30 pressure plate back on, and got the engine bolted back in today.
Went to bleed the clutch to make sure it was working properly now, and found:
Gas Metal Auto part Water Automotive tire

Probably not too easy to see, but that's a big crack in the slave cylinder, probably happened when the piston got a bit jammed because of the too-long throwout bearing.
Very luckily, I happen to have a spare, because when I replaced the leaking master cylinder almost exactly 1 year ago I bought both cylinders new, so the old slave cylinder is still in good condition, and I was able to use it.

Then we could bleed the clutch and finally, finally, I was able to drive it properly again, after so much frustration with trying to get the N/A engine in, running, and driving.

Only problem now is, the N/A exhaust manifold flange sits forward of the turbo one, so the bit of flanged pipe I had made up to fix the prev. owner's dodgy straight-pipe is too short now, so need to get another made up, because straight-piped N/A i6 diesel is absolutely obnoxious, and really freaking loud, and I actually feel sorry for anyone I drove past on my test drive.

It does get to 100 which is good, bit slow but not as much as I remember, definitely drivable for the moment, but I flat out refuse to drive it again until the muffler is connected. Straight piped SD33T, exactly the same setup, I'll drive around all day long no problems, but this is actually ridiculous. I suspect it's got a manifold leak as well, but I won't be able to tell until the muffler is connected. Anyway I'll stop complaining now.

Gave it a quick wash, no soap or anything, just a gurney to get the dirt and dust off, I almost forgot how much I love the look of this car 😁 (need to find a clean GQ door to paint for the drivers side still)
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Land vehicle Car

Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Automotive side marker light Car


And this photo from our Moreton trip is still one of my favorite shots of the car, the quality is bad and it's far away, but it just looks so good in my eyes. The wheels, superior shackles, the angle, it's all just perfect. Even the white door gives it a bit of character 😅. I also just noticed the photo was taken before I lost my front number plate later on in the trip.
Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Sky
 

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Was wondering about the smoke. Engine sounds fine. 👍
Stuffed compression rings and dodgy oil rings letting oil past. 😇

Foo
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
Stuffed compression rings and dodgy oil rings letting oil past. 😇

Foo
The smoke cleared up after a bit of running, this engine hadn’t run for about a year at the time I started it, and I’m almost certain the glow plugs weren’t getting power, so on the first start it was cold and the fuel sitting in the injector pump probably wasn’t the greatest.
Overall it starts and runs much better than the turbo motor, not as quick, but I can tell the compression is better because this one starts after a bit of cranking with no glow plugs, the old one would never do that.
Hopefully the rebuild engine will be better than both 🤞
 
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The smoke cleared up after a bit of running, this engine hadn’t run for about a year at the time I started it, and I’m almost certain the glow plugs weren’t getting power, so on the first start it was cold and the fuel sitting in the injector pump probably wasn’t the greatest.
Overall it starts and runs much better than the turbo motor, not as quick, but I can tell the compression is better because this one starts after a bit of cranking with no glow plugs, the old one would never do that.
Hopefully the rebuild engine will be better than both 🤞
:unsure: You do realise that I was taking the pliss out of you. 🤣🤣

Foo
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
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