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2016 CRD wagon
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Being so difficult to source 12v starter and alternator did you investigate getting them rewound to suit 12v?
It was suggested by Shane (I think), but then the TD starter option presented itself and so I thought for 50 bucks it was worth a shot. I couldn't imagine it would be cheap getting the starter rewound for 12v........might be nearly as much as the car itself cost(correct me if I'm wrong). So I didnt look any further into it.

FWIW I just googled starter winding QLD and found there is a business in caboolture that does this so I'll keep that in mind if the TD one doesnt work out馃槈

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Made a lot of progress on it, good work.
Always good to see another old Patrol being done up.

Thanks James, I've still got some explaining to do, ran out of time last night, but I'll address your point now. I'm pretty sure it was a factory l28 auto, it says l28 on the vin plate, and it definitely doesn't have a 130L fuel tank, only the small one up the back, so I'm still unsure of how the H260 got there, but it's good anyhow. If I ever want better ratios I've got a H233 in the red ute I can swap under to get better highway RPM anyway.
That is surprising. Given the combination of H260 and barn doors that would usually mean P40, guess since it had an engine conversion its not surprising other things have been changed.

Have you worked out the diff ratio? H233B cars in Australia were 4.375 or 4.625, but a H260 means that it may have 4.88 or 4.11 ratio.

Edit: some more pics of how it all fits together. The turbo SD has slightly different spacing on the harmonic balancer so can only use one belt on the alternator
View attachment 534901
SD Pulley set ups are almost hilariously bad.
The pullies changed on crank or water pump, or alternator bracket changed with nearly every single combination of no A/C or P/S, A/C but no P/S, P/S but no A/C and A/C and P/S, oh, and between 12 and 24v too. Also there are a couple of different offsets for the A/C tensioner pulley which for whatever reason bolts through the thermostat housing.

But the belt groove spacing on the crank pulley is for Power Steer, and judging by the head bolts that engine originally had A/C, and the water pump pulley is from a manual steer car.
The red ute has the cyl head adjuster bracket for power steer, but not the water pump pulley.
 
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But the belt groove spacing on the crank pulley is for Power Steer, and judging by the head bolts that engine originally had A/C, and the water pump pulley is from a manual steer car.
The red ute has the cyl head adjuster bracket for power steer, but not the water pump pulley.
Yes I agree it does appear it has had an AC bracket at some stage. We will pull the one off the ute motor and use when we get around to it, but honestly that's a long way down the list of priorities 馃槈.

The ute motor had the same water pump pulley but its harmonic balancer grooves were better spaces and allowed 2 belts to drive alt and w. pump and a single belt on the p. steering
 

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2016 CRD wagon
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As Ethan mentioned, once we had the turbo motor to work with we neede to take the flywheel and clutch from the ute motor and fit to it. Now we know the clutch is possible a bit on the small size but we didnt have any other options at the time. He will in time source a turbo flywheel and clutch to suit.we believe a clutch out of a zd30 is exactly the same size so plenty of options for clutches.

So on went the flywheel, torqued up nicely and then the clutch plate and pressure plate. Because we didnt buy a new one we didnt have an alignment tool.........so I come up with a plan.

I found the shank of a drill I had fit onto the spigot bearing and the fluted end was just a bit smaller than the spliced hole onthe clutch plate. With the addition of a bit of poly irigation pipe, and electrical tape around the shank, we suddenly had theb right tool for the job
Wood Natural material Metal Auto part
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


And with that we test fitted the motor and gearbox before it went into the vehicle. To my surprise it went together really easily!
Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Tread


I can assure you it did not go back together near as easily once we had the motor mounted in the engine bay and lifting the gearbox into place from under the vehicle. As Ethan mentioned we almost dropped it onto the concrete trying to get it into place and it's no where near as heavy as the gearbox in my GU!
After a good hour of contortion we got it to mate up and screwed in the bell housing bolts quick smart.

Next time we try this we will have the gearbox mounted which should make it easier to wiggle the motor into place......hopefully 馃馃馃
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I鈥檇 just like to quickly point out that we鈥檙e not writing this build thread as we do stuff to the Patrol, pretty much everything that鈥檚 been talked about so far has already been done before I created the thread.
Once we鈥檙e all up to speed on where it鈥檚 at now, I鈥檒l mention it so that everything afterwards is clearly written about as it鈥檚 completed.

Edit: Actually never mind, I鈥檝e just had a look back through my photos (my main reference for chronological order of what to talk about next), and the gearbox was pretty much the last thing we did, but I鈥檒l mention a few small things here.
Firstly, I鈥檝e installed the gearstick and transfer lever and because we鈥檙e moving the gearbox upwards, they might just be able to fit properly with the manual tunnel cover from the Ute, taking into account the 2鈥 body lift. The gearstick holder clears the tunnel by about 2-3mm, so we鈥檒l see whether I鈥檒l have to trim to account for torque twist, and the transfer lever only just touches the cover plate in 2wd, so only a small amount of trimming required. I don鈥檛 have a photo with the plate on but I鈥檒l get one soon:



Secondly, after installing and bleeding the clutch master and slave cylinder, I was delighted to be able to actuate the clutch with my newly installed clutch pedal from the Ute, three pedals suits the car better than the original 2 it had ;). However, I quickly realised that it was leaking a lot of brake fluid all down the firewall and inside the driver footwell. I鈥檓 not a huge fan of brake fluid, and one of the main surface rust spots we鈥檇 already dealt with was under the brake booster where a shop had spilt fluid after the brake system got rebuilt (on with a coat of rust converter and some black automotive spray can paint). So the master cylinder needs rebuilding with new seals, but I鈥檝e just bought a new master and slave cylinder off eBay which should arrive soon and we鈥檒l be able to get the clutch working again, hopefully even better this time (if anyone鈥檚 looking for a cheap rebuildable master and slave cylinder for an sd33/p40, pm me). I鈥檝e rust converted and painted over everywhere there was clutch/brake fluid, hopefully it doesn鈥檛 rust too quickly now. Here鈥檚 a photo of the three pedals, and a (now) black footwell:


Now the big issue we鈥檙e currently facing, which is tailshaft length. So the wagon came with a divorced transfer, another sign that it was L28, which has oddly sized front and rear tail shafts because the transfer sits so far back, very different lengths to anything with a combined gearbox/transfercase. My original plan was to use the tailshafts out of the Ute, which has a h233 rear diff, not the h260 like the wagon. The problem we鈥檙e having is that the front tailshaft is too long because we鈥檝e moved the engine/gearbox forward 20mm, which is apparently more than the compression left in the tailshaft at standard suspension height, and the rear tailshaft is actually too long as well because the h260 has a longer pinion/diff carrier on the front, which makes the 233 tailshaft like 3mm too long even with the +20mm engine shift. Both of them are sooo close to fitting but are only a couple of mm too long. Dad made a post about it before I made my account, referring to it as 鈥渁 project I鈥檓 helping with鈥, so if anyone knows of an off-the-shelf tailshaft with the lengths he鈥檚 listed that would be great. I would get custom ones made to suit, but if I accidentally damage one on a rock or similar incident I don鈥檛 really want to go through the hassle of getting another, so an off-the-shelf option would be nice.

The last couple of minor things I should mention to bring anyone interested up to speed:

The bonnet needs painting black to match the car:


The worst bit of rust in the whole thing (apart from Nissan鈥檚 badly designed radiator mounts) is in the back drivers side barn door, where the very top corner has started to rust. I鈥檝e rust converted over it though, and I鈥檒l probably give it a lick of paint, so it shouldn鈥檛 spread any time soon. If it ever does though, I might look at trying to get some GQ barn doors to bolt up, as I think they look better, even though I do want to differentiate it from all the GQ鈥檚 running around.


Speaking of that exact barn door, the top seal actually doesn鈥檛 seem to contact the body, so when I first washed all the crusty stuff off the car from sitting under a tree for 5 years, I sprayed the back and got water all over the inside of the door and it pooled up on the floor, the same happened when I tried to wash the roof and it ran to the back. I just want to know if anyone still makes a rubber seal for these doors? If not, what would be the best way to seal it when it鈥檚 closed so I can actually get around to washing the roof without the boot filling up with water? TIA

And one last thing for now, because the previous owner used to run a crazy V8 in this thing, he鈥檚 got a fancy electric fuel pump plumbed in with a pressure regulator set to 6psi in the engine bay, made for petrol, but seems to work for diesel too. We鈥檝e decided we鈥檙e going to take advantage of it to take some load off the mechanical injector pump by keeping the electric one as well. Has anyone got any good info on running a small amount of back pressure (6psi) behind a mechanical pump? I鈥檝e turned the car on to run the pump with it all plumbed up and the engines fuel system seems to hold the pressure with no leaks which is good, I just want to know if there鈥檚 any reason not to run it. Again, TIA

Now a random couple of flex shots I did with a jack because I was curious. It鈥檚 pretty pathetic, not gonna lie. This is full flex before a wheel lifts off the ground, engine and gearbox in the car. Can鈥檛 be more than a foot. Oh well, I guess I鈥檒l have to shim the 260鈥檚 lsd to get me over the obstacles instead of relying on flex like dad does鈥
I鈥檇 install some lockers, but no-one makes axle shafts for these anymore, so if I broke one I鈥檓 pretty much instantly screwed and have to find a whole new diff to put under. I do have ONE, in the Ute, but it鈥檚 the only spare I鈥檝e got. If anyone knows anyone who still make long and short side axles for the c200 and h233/h260, please let me know. I鈥檇 love to know I鈥檓 not running on borrowed time with 30+ year old axles and no spares.

That got off track real quick鈥
Flex shots! :)




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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Have you worked out the diff ratio? H233B cars in Australia were 4.375 or 4.625, but a H260 means that it may have 4.88 or 4.11 ratio.
That's interesting info, I'm assuming your personal experience is worth more than the Gregory's manual we got, they probably only looked at one or 2 models anyway, but in the book it says the H233 only came in 4.675, and the H260 only came in 4.875. If it is true that there are lower ratios I'll be happiest with a 4.11. In the ute (H233) at 50kph, I could sit easily in 5th gear and comfortably drive along, which probably means the ratios aren't great for highway driving and long trips. I don't know the RPM it was at though as the N/A MQ SD33's don't have a tacho. If the Gregory's book is right then the 260 in the wagon will be worse than the ute, which isn't ideal.

I've also read online that MQ/MK patrols only came with the H233, not the H233B (when I was searching for possible locker options), which would probably mean the ratio rules for the 233B don't apply the same as the 233. This is all speculation on my end though so please correct me if I'm wrong.

Edit:
Actually I've just read through the info on the MQ-Patrol.com page about diffs and you must be right (unsurprisingly) about the other ratios available. It does make me wonder why the Gregory's manual only lists the one for each, but nevermind for now. I'll test the ratio this afternoon and post what I've found then, finger's crossed for a 4.11 and not a 4.88 馃
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Good news! I tested the ratio yesterday before work and it's definitely a 4.11. Awesome. I wouldn't have been so happy if it was a 4.88 because as I addressed previously revs on the highway would have been quite high.
I'm not sure how most people test diff ratios but I just put a chalk marker on the diff input shaft, jacked up one side so the wheel is off the ground, managed to spin it around twice (lsd doesn't seem too bad), and had a look at where the input shaft ended up.
Haven't been able to get much done on it this week between school and work, but the holidays start next week, so I'm hoping to get a hell of a lot done then, as well as this weekend. I'll keep the thread updated.

Edit:
Also just a side note I'm not sure why my icon says I'm in the US, I'm not, I'm definitely here in Aus, but it could be because of the vpn I'm using to access the forum on school wifi :LOL:
 

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Answered your own question with the VPN origins. Good build thread.

Foo

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
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That's interesting info, I'm assuming your personal experience is worth more than the Gregory's manual we got, they probably only looked at one or 2 models anyway, but in the book it says the H233 only came in 4.675, and the H260 only came in 4.875. If it is true that there are lower ratios I'll be happiest with a 4.11. In the ute (H233) at 50kph, I could sit easily in 5th gear and comfortably drive along, which probably means the ratios aren't great for highway driving and long trips. I don't know the RPM it was at though as the N/A MQ SD33's don't have a tacho. If the Gregory's book is right then the 260 in the wagon will be worse than the ute, which isn't ideal.

I've also read online that MQ/MK patrols only came with the H233, not the H233B (when I was searching for possible locker options), which would probably mean the ratio rules for the 233B don't apply the same as the 233. This is all speculation on my end though so please correct me if I'm wrong.

Edit:
Actually I've just read through the info on the MQ-Patrol.com page about diffs and you must be right (unsurprisingly) about the other ratios available. It does make me wonder why the Gregory's manual only lists the one for each, but nevermind for now. I'll test the ratio this afternoon and post what I've found then, finger's crossed for a 4.11 and not a 4.88 馃
Yeah the Gregory's is definitely wrong. 3 of my cars with H233Bs and 4.3's will attest to that lol. And as you have since found out the H260 did indeed come in a 4.11.
In terms of gearing, 33's and 4.11s will bring the revs down to around 2200rpm, give or take depending on exact tyre diameter. The SD should still have enough power to make it up most hills without dropping a gear, but a good exhaust and a little more boost and fuel will help it out, especially once it has some weight in it or you're towing.
An N/A SD (assuming it still has 31's and 4.6 diffs) will be doing near on 2600rpm @ 100km/h, they are geared very short.

Yeah I've read that too. I do not believe it. I also vaguely remember reading a suggestion that the Nissan service manual was wrong, because it states the rear diff is a H233B.
The ONLY mention I have found of a H233 (non B) even existing in Nissan documentation is some parts descriptions, translated from Japanese, in Nissan FAST. But other parts descriptions with interchangeable parts numbers do not mention a diff code at all, so I don't place too much weight on that being proof lol.
 

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2016 CRD wagon
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Well some good news and not so good news today........

While I was on an important telephone call today, Ethan got the SD33T going........

Didnt notice at first, until i heard that dreaded panicking calling from him as he is madly trying to get my attention.........

Hang up the phone and sprint out to find the little SD revving away freely, rather fast I'll admit, but it is running 馃槵.

Turns out the stop lever on the side of the injection pump doesnt work as intended.......

Oh boy....what now......shove rag in the intake.....it slows down and eventually stops, thankfully!

Breath sigh of relief and Ethan gets a chance to compose himself after being pretty sure all his work was about to disintegrate in front of his eyes.

So we plucked up the courage to start it again, but this time armed with a piece of cardboard to block the intake and a spanner to crack injector lines if required.

So here is a video of it running. Seems it's only running on 5 (the back injector is not getting fuel) and the start-run-stop lever is not working. Not sure what that means, perhaps the pump is not in good health??

Regardless , would love to hear from anyone regarding thoughts on the vid below


TIA
 
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