[rgren2]

Old wires get brittle, they can break inside the insulation, a test light or meter is the best way to chase the power. Also could be the earths.

 

[Ethanissan]

What’s weird though is that everything worked before, maybe since the car was sitting for 5 years the old wiring degraded, and when I got the engine running it just all fell apart with the vibration? I’m not sure how it all works, but even if we need to rewire it all it shouldn’t be too hard, these things consist of about a dozen wires total


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[rgren2]

Terminals vibrate, you’d be surprised with the amount of movement that happens when a vehicle moves. For a start, just wiggle every terminal and fuse you can.

 

[rgren2]

A can of contact cleaner can help. Get it from Jaycar.

 

[Ethanissan]

A can of contact cleaner can help. Get it from Jaycar.

Sounds good, I'll get a can this arvo if Dad doesn't have any.

 

[rgren2]

Dad doesn't have any.

Dads are good. But sometimes they don’t have everything. 🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

[Ethanissan]

Dads are good. But sometimes they don’t have everything. 🤣🤣🤣🤣

True, but he seems to have most stuff most of the time, except when we need it 😝

 

[trev zd30]

Sounds good, I'll get a can this arvo if Dad doesn't have any.

Dads are good. But sometimes they don’t have everything. 🤣🤣🤣🤣

True, but he seems to have most stuff most of the time, except when we need it 😝

I think everyone who owns a zd patrol would have a can of contact cleaner for cleaning their MAF 🤔

Yes that means I have some 😜

 

[geeyoutoo]

Sounds good, I'll get a can this arvo if Dad doesn't have any.

The one I use is CRC Contact Cleaner, have been using it on my MAF's for 21 years every 10,000k (whether it needs it or not ). It is a product I became aware of a long time ago when I was in charge of maintenance at a factory, our electricians used it all the time.

 

[Ethanissan]

Alright so I’ll do a better progress update later, but for now:

Replaced the front right indicator bulb, all indicators work now,

Took the dash apart and doused all wires and connections in contact cleaner, now the indicator stalk works reliably, and it turns out the dash lights not working was a blown park lights fuse,

Found out I can make the fan controls work by wiggling the fuse board until it works, have to find out why it’s sensitive,

Plugged in the clock that was in the Ute, set the time, and it keeps time perfectly so far ,

Put in the front seats, hopefully for the last time for now,

Started looking at the butchered radio wiring so I can get it figured out.

Probably more, but I’ll put up some more photos and stuff tonight after work


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[Ethanissan]

I’ll put up some more photos and stuff tonight after work

Well, that never happened.

Anyway, some more progress has been made on the old gold Patrol, and it’s time for a more in depth post again like the early ones.

So the original MK door on the drivers side had a leaky quarter window that wouldn’t seal, and my plan was to put on the white GQ door that came with the car a as a spare. Well, I’ve done that now, and it doesn’t look the prettiest, but at least I’m one step closer to being able to wash it without filling it with water, only thing holding that back now is the barn door seals leak at the top. Don’t most MQ/MK wagons have drip rails above the barn doors, or is that only GQ’s? Mine doesn’t anyway, probably rusted out and the previous owner just got rid of them when he did the body resto.

I’ve also installed the clock and the beginnings of the radio on the dash, but the wiring is so complicated because of the jvc head unit that’s been Frankensteined in, I’m going to have to find some wiring diagrams somewhere for this…

I haven’t got a photo of this, but those of you reading this who’ve either got or have had an old carbureted petrol car, patrol or otherwise, will know that you have a choke cable or lever you pull or push, in order to make it easier to start. Well I’ve repurposed this on the wagon into a pull-stop cable, which pulls the lever on the injector pump to stop the motor, and it’s cool because it looks like it’s meant to be there (it is).

We had a mobile roadworthy guy come over yesterday to have a look at the old VY Calais, because it needs a rego transfer within the extended family. The roadworthy guy was recommended to us by our neighbour across the road, who buys classic cars from out of the country and sells them for a profit, who’s making good money for himself and gets all his roadys though this guy. While the rwc guy was here (nice bloke, was happy to be slightly lenient on a couple of things if need be) I showed him around the patrol and he gave me a few pointers on what he’d need for it to be roadworthy, and it’s actually pretty close. He recommended a mod plate guy to get the conversion certified who’s coming Friday, so that’ll be sorted then, then it’s mainly the oil leaks on the engine I still need to track down and a couple of little things. So I’m pretty happy at the moment.

Also forgot to mention I put all of the interior back together too, so the front and rear seats are in, seatbelts are in, everything’s pretty much ready to go. And now that I can start and stop the engine from in the cab I just need to wire up a glow plug button and I’ll be sweet.
Progress is good

And now some cheeky flex shots to keep everyone interested:

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