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No matter what you read or what anyone says, as long as you begin ALL jobs with the mindset of “nothing is bolt on and this isn’t going to go as planned or stated”, especially with trying to adapt parts to an MK you”ll get there in the end.

When I had my MQ I found it to be interesting to say the least with mods, and just resided the fact that, I didn’t know how or when but something was always going to bite me in the ass and a simple mod would turn into at least a 2 days affair of brainstorming solutions to complete the job.

In the end you’ll know your car backwards and will be able to fix anything with it.
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
No matter what you read or what anyone says, as long as you begin ALL jobs with the mindset of “this isn’t going to go as planned or stated”, especially with trying to adapt parts to an MK you”lol get there in the end.

When I had my MQ I found it to be interesting to say the least with mods and just resided the fact that, I didn’t know how or when but something was always going to bite me in the ass and a simple mod would turn into at least a 2 days affair of brainstorming solutions To complete the job.

Fun isn’t it!
Yep sure is haha, I think we’ve found the solution but just need to know if the LSD can be disassembled or if it’s spring loaded. The MK centre obviously has that plate in the centre, which can actually move side to side and just sits in there freely, obviously because of the wheel bearing setup. The GU centre seems to still have the space that that plate should sit in, so if I can remove it from the MK LSD I might be able to just put it into the GU one. Just need to know if the H260 LSD’s are able to be disassembled at home with basic tools.


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I Have Imaginary Friends
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Any thing is possible, some of the best engineering has happened because someone said it couldn’t be done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Any thing is possible, some of the best engineering has happened because someone said it couldn’t be done.
Toyota diffs started breaking because someone said it couldn’t be done


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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Any thing is possible, some of the best engineering has happened because someone said it couldn’t be done.
X 11tybIllion.
 

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You’ll never, never know, if you don’t have a go. 😁👍
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
You’ll never, never know, if you don’t have a go. 😁👍
Very true, I would like to know if the LSD is spring-loaded before I take it apart though 😬
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
LOKKA install time! (Actually it was a while ago but here's the rundown)
Sorry about bad picture quality, I actually filmed the whole thing with the intention of turning it into a youtube video, and these pictures are just screenshots of the clips. Same reason that there's not many photos to begin with, motion blur is a pain.

While the Patrol was still on the road with the 4.11 diffs under it, I got to work disassembling the 4.375 front diff to prepare it for the locker, which wasn't a hard job. It did fall off the jackstands once onto the floor, but I used the opportunity to loosen some bolts that probably would have made it fall off anyway if I tried to do them while it was still up. I filmed the whole process and will make it into a couple videos when I've got the time and will to learn how to edit videos.

Once the axle was fully dissassembled, apart from the knuckles (left those on because I didn't feel like taking the wipers apart without having a rebuild kit with new ones), I could take the front cover off the housing to gain access to the diff itself.
Gas Wood Engineering Machine Metal


Once the bearing caps are undone the center just comes right out, with a little leverage, nice and light being only a 200mm crownwheel, and an open diff.
Took the center over to the bench, explained how the LOKKA works to the camera, but not in a very easy to understand way, so I'll likely just link the video in the archives about 4wd systems lockers.

Taking the ring gear off the diff was easy, our vice is pretty small, but big enough to fit the center lengthways. The bolts came out easy enough with my breaker bar, just a little persuasion needed.
Then I had to remove the spider gears in preparation for the lokka.
First thing to do when removing the spider gears is to remove the pin holding the side gears, and there's another smaller pin pressed into the open centre through the side gear pin. This is only supposed to come out one way, but I didn't have anything good to punch it out with, so I did probably one of the less smart things I've done in this whole process, and found the only thing I could that seemed to just fit.
A file.
One of those small, skinny, long files, that apparently are really brittle.
So basically, when I say it only just fit, I mean it. Long story short, I got about 8mm of it wedged in, and lo and behold, it wouldn't come out. Then it got worse when the whole 'brittle' part showed up and it snapped off inside the pinhole.
(continued...)
 
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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
So now I'm panicking because this piece of file is stuck in the pinhole of my diff centre with seemingly no way to get it out, and I'm actually fretting over this for a fair while.
Eventually though, Dad said I can modify a punch with a cone shaped end to fit into the hole, grinding down the cone face until it's just one long cylinder that I can use to punch both the pin, and piece of file out the other end of the hole.
So that almost-disaster is over, and I got the pin out, removed the spider gears, and got to work figuring out how the lokka needs to be assembled.
I have to say, the instructions are only really good (in my own opinion) for finding the tolerances and acceptable wear amounts, in terms of actual assembly, I found it much easier to just assemble it freehand to see how it all goes together. It could just be the way that I learn things, as it was the same when I took the H260 LSD's apart, but I just always seem to find that I learn better by experimentation and figuring things out for myself. Manuals are good for finding torque specs, tolerances, liquid amounts etc. but I always like doing my own thing (within reason so I'm not destroying things obviously).
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior

Installing the actual lokka was pretty easy, take the caps off the splined axle gears, because the caps go in between the gears and the pin, put the little spring perches into the centre bits, put the centre bits in with the caps and the pin through the middle, and oh my god after re-reading that it makes no sense.
So I'm not going to explain it here properly, plenty of tutorials and explanations online, it's basically just assemble it correctly, make sure all the tolerances are correct, and it should be sweet. It's much more simple than installing a manual locker since all you're replacing are the spider gears, so the bearings on the centre are all the same, and once the spider gears are swapped for the locker it can all pretty much be bolted back together, torqueing everything back to spec, and the backlash and gear mesh should all be good if nothing bearing-related has been changed. With a manual locker, since the ring gear has to be bolted to a whole new centre with new bearings and races, the gear mesh and backlash need to be reset back into spec.
Lokka in diff, back in the housing:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Rim Automotive exterior


Once the diff was all back in and the cover plate on, I took the front axle out of the Patrol to take all the good bits off it for the 4.3 diff. The things I swapped over were the brake line (for the braided and extended line going to the diff), the wheel hubs (for the drilled and slotted brake rotors), and the manual locking hubs. Once the new diff was assembled, I had a complete 4.375 diff with a locker and all the good brake parts, all in all the ideal diff for my purposes.
Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car


As I was trying to reinstall it into the car I did strip one of the passenger side u-bolts, so had to source new ones. Ron at opposite lock caloundra was very helpful, they're a tough dog supplier, and tough dog make replacement u-bolts for the MQ, he said they didn't have any in storage in Brisbane or Melbourne, but got them in the next day regardless, so props to him.

After that mishap the car was very quickly sitting back on it's own wheels, with the new front end together, and me unable to use 4wd or test the locker because of the now mismatched ratios:
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Car Land vehicle
 
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You can drop the tail shaft and just run the front diff. You will find the steering heavier and hear a clacking sound when turning. Love my Lokka.
 
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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
You can drop the tail shaft and just run the front diff. You will find the steering heavier and hear a clacking sound when turning. Love my Lokka.
I started writing this before you posted that, but I was wondering about that. Not sure if I'd be entirely comfortable running on just the little C200, although in saying that it's almost identical to the Nissan R200 from what I've read (centre's are entirely interchangeable), and that's a factory skyline diff that people put oodles of hp through, so maybe it'd be alright.
Back to what I've already written:

Now I know I've already posted the link to the thread, but here it is again for chronological order purposes:

Basically, trying to adapt parts from newer cars onto older cars is hard, even if they're supposedly the same thing.

Long story short, as I was trying to put the GU H260 centre into the rear housing, I realised that the little piece in the middle that the axles sit against, which allows both MK rear wheel bearings to act as one unit, is missing because the after the MK the later model wheel bearings act independent of one another. Luckily after I took both diffs' LSD's apart the piece was a simple swap over because Nissan is good like that, put the LSD back together, clamping it down with a few bolts to put the screws back in, and reassembled the diff back into the carrier to create a complete 3rd member with the vital piece in the middle.
Crankset Automotive tire Gear Vehicle brake Bicycle part

Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Automotive wheel system Gas

Automotive tire Locking hubs Vehicle brake Alloy wheel Auto part


When that was all done, I put this into the housing for what I hope to be the last time for a long time, and did up all of my shiny new 10mm bolts:
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Motor vehicle

Put the new brake shoes into their spots and reassembled the whole diff, so I ended up with once again a complete rolling diff:
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread

Then I pretty much gave up on trying to get the pinion flanges off, since we don't have any good electric impact guns, and both the pneumatic ones need air obviously, which neither of the compressors are very good at supplying at the moment. Dad used his magic powers of experience though and came up with what ended up being actually a pretty simple leverage system where the pinion flange was held by a bar and 2 bolts while the nut was undone with a breaker bar and extension levering the opposite way. In the end the flange was swapped over and I got to work putting the diff back under the car. Once I actually got to it bolting it back on, getting the car resting on it fully with everything connected didn't take long at all, I guess that's what happens when you've done the same thing a few times over.
Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Vehicle

(I don't know why I took this one photo in portrait)
 
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Discussion Starter · #114 · (Edited)
So today I've been driving around with the 4.375, enjoying and comparing it with the old 4.11. It was hard to tell the difference at first because it's been a little over a week since I drove it last, and in the meantime I've been driving the V6 petrol Calais, so obviously just a little more energetic than the old Patrol, but after a little bit there was just little things that felt much better. For one when I used to get into 3rd gear from 2nd it would almost bog down a little, as if the ratio difference was too big, which didn't feel great during normal driving, but it doesn't do that anymore, which I can only assume is because the gears are just slightly closer together and maybe I'm shifting slightly higher. I don't currently have a tacho, when we did the SD swap I took the tacho out of the ute and it's all wired up but the positive pin on the back of the tach itself needs resoldering as it's got terrible connection.
Overall I'm really happy with the difference, it seems to pull a bit better, not much, but a bit, and I can definetly notice that the numbers on my HUD speedo go up a bit quicker in 4th (the main gear I can load it up in at different speeds) so I'll have to do a 0-100 test and post the results to that thread I found about it the other day. Also since it's geared shorter now, I notice in some spots where I used to only just have to downshift to 2nd really inconveniently or it'd just bog and soot in 3rd, only to shift right back to 3rd after, I can now pull in 3rd with less trouble which is nice. Just a few specific spots, anywhere where the speed gets down to like 23ish kph around a sharp corner.
 
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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
I couldn't help but give it a go in 4wd at some point today, so ducked out to a quick little local spot for a small test. Lokka worked flawlessly, I can't wait to give it a go out at the glasshouse mountains when all this rain goes away and it dries up a bit.
@y b normal remember these photos?
Tire Wheel Cloud Land vehicle Car

Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle


Bugger all flex there, also open front LSD rear.
And, now (and this is with the swaybar connected!)
Tire Wheel Car Plant Vehicle

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Plant

Tire Car Wheel Vehicle Plant

Tire Car Plant Vehicle Wheel


My rear tires scrub the chassis rails on full flex now, which I consider a win 😝
 

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I owned a MQ shorty 6cyl petrol many years ago, that car ran rings around every other 4wd i wheeled with on the sand and everywhere actually, think it went away in about 2002 from chassis rot...good memories. Nice see one up and about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I owned a MQ shorty 6cyl petrol many years ago, that car ran rings around every other 4wd i wheeled with on the sand and everywhere actually, think it went away in about 2002 from chassis rot...good memories. Nice see one up and about.
This one will be my daily for a long time yet I reckon. Then, when it's done that job, I'll pull it off the road and have a crack at restoring it properly. Looong time in the future though.
Just need to make it drive nicer on the road.
 
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Hmm mmm.......
I see a glassy run coming on.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Hmm mmm.......
I see a glassy run coming on.....
I'm honestly so excited for the next one, I went out again this arvo to test out the gears and locker, and oh man I'm so happy. Since the suspension and driveline are sorted the only other thing now mechanical is the engine (turbo, intercooler, tune etc.), but that's going to be a long slow process where I change things around heaps over time to see what works, and other than that I just need to work on the cosmetics of the vehicle. Obviously there'll be small mods here and there, like a reverse camera mirror that I got on super special, and possibly central locking and power windows, sound deadening and insulating, and maybe aircon one day (actually that'll be a big step), window tint, barwork (also not small) etc., but it's at a stage now where mechanically I'm happy to just drive and enjoy it (still need to sort steering wobbles).

Also after reading that list back I realise there's actually still a lot to do, but that'll all happen over time.

But yes glassy trip would be awesome, just need to wait for this rain to go away for a while so it dries out a bit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
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