[Ethanissan]

Continuing a discussion from the H260 MK GU thread, here's a video about running rear wheel bearings in diff oil rather than grease:

I respect Matt, he's done good instructional videos about how to approach and overcome obstacles properly (read: not with a heavy right foot and nothing else), and the difference in performance between a front and rear locker. I'm not saying he's right or wrong. But it's an interesting concept.
Also yes, it's a Toyota, with full floating axles, but same idea.

In theory, the oil level doesn't have to be as high as you might think. Looking at the fill plug, even at standard height the oil already almost starts to sit in the axle tubes, so only needs to sit an inch or so higher to lubricate the wheel bearings.

 

[Ethanissan]

I personally won't do this, as firstly my outer axle seals aren't great (don't know where to buy new ones), and secondly the inners help keep water and dirt out of the diff, as a second line of defence if you will, and grease obviously works well as most all manufacturers use it, but it's an interesting theory.

 

[Ethanissan]

Just picked up a GU wheel bearing nut kit from OnlineAutoParts so I can finally sort out the wheel bearings properly. Shouldn’t come undone now unlike the 2 nuts and locking washer style.

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[y b normal]

I've seen that video on the oil for wheel bearings, it would be feasible if your hub seals are perfect, but I've yet to see a hub that wouldn't leak the oil.

 

[Ethanissan]

Alright so I’ve determined that the death wobble isn’t from the wheel bearings, I tightened them up with the GU nut system with the castor correction plates in yesterday and it still gets a violent shake if I let it.

It does drive nicer with the castor correction, and I’m tempted to just leave it in now and try to solve the problem elsewhere because the other day without the wedges it got proper death wobble on a busy public road, which has never happened before.

I really need to just go through the bushes and tie rod ends and replace everything because I‘ve been driving another car as a daily for a little while now trying to fix the Patrol, and all I want to do is drive it but I just can’t.

The suspension bushes all around look like they were replaced not long before it was taken off the road 6ish years ago, so I’ll leave them alone for now and try looking for other solutions first.

I’ll try putting washers in beside the solid spring mount at the rear of the front spring to stop any side to side movement, and maybe try to find someone who sells castor wedges and get a bigger degree castor correction. Kingpins are fine, no slop in those, although it probably wouldn’t hurt to replace the bearings anyway.


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[geeyoutoo]

Alright so I’ve determined that the death wobble isn’t from the wheel bearings, I tightened them up with the GU nut system with the castor correction plates in yesterday and it still gets a violent shake if I let it.

It does drive nicer with the castor correction, and I’m tempted to just leave it in now and try to solve the problem elsewhere because the other day without the wedges it got proper death wobble on a busy public road, which has never happened before.

I really need to just go through the bushes and tie rod ends and replace everything because I‘ve been driving another car as a daily for a little while now trying to fix the Patrol, and all I want to do is drive it but I just can’t.

The suspension bushes all around look like they were replaced not long before it was taken off the road 6ish years ago, so I’ll leave them alone for now and try looking for other solutions first.

I’ll try putting washers in beside the solid spring mount at the rear of the front spring to stop any side to side movement, and maybe try to find someone who sells castor wedges and get a bigger degree castor correction. Kingpins are fine, no slop in those, although it probably wouldn’t hurt to replace the bearings anyway.


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All causes of wheel wobble are documented, there are no surprises left. I wouldn't rule out any 'bushings' even if they appear to be new, quality is unknown and time wounds everything, parts can look and feel great, it is the load that causes deformation that is almost impossible to reproduce when in a driveway.

 

[Ethanissan]

All causes of wheel wobble are documented, there are no surprises left. I wouldn't rule out any 'bushings' even if they appear to be new, quality is unknown and time wounds everything, parts can look and feel great, it is the load that causes deformation that is almost impossible to reproduce when in a driveway.

Yep good advice, thanks for that. I’ve just lowered the rear end of one of the front spring and the bush definitely doesn’t look good:

So that’ll probably be the first thing I replace, just have to figure out who sells them…


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[geeyoutoo]

Yep good advice, thanks for that. I’ve just lowered the rear end of one of the front spring and the bush definitely doesn’t look good:

So that’ll probably be the first thing I replace, just have to figure out who sells them…


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Wow, that looks offset, compression from weight, so not the best. Send Garry an email and see what he can offer.

 

[rgren2]

just have to figure out who sells them…

The joys of owning an older or modified vehicle.

 

[Ethanissan]

Wow, that looks offset, compression from weight, so not the best. Send Garry an email and see what he can offer.

I’ll flick him an email yep, hoping he can help, from what I’ve heard on here if he can’t help no one can. Interesting though that anything older than the GQ isn’t listed on the Nizzbits website. Oh well, we’ll see what he says.

Edit:
Nevermind, it’s not listed as an option under Patrols but in the description it says they have MQ parts

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[Ethanissan]

Just took one front spring out to grab comparison photos between the front and rear bushes:

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[rgren2]

Both look dodgy.

 

[Ethanissan]

Both look dodgy.

Note taken, I’ve asked Garry in my email about a full bush kit anyway, so should be all good.

I guess while it’s off the road I may as well figure out how I’m going to mount the intercooler:

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[Ethanissan]

Not much to talk about yet, on saturday @y b normal and I went out for a day at the Glasshouse Mountains, and I got to test out the suspension upgrades, diff gears, and front locker, and I'm very happy with the result.

The diff gears make a noticeable improvement to the idle torque and wheelspeed when trying to just crawl things, and the locker means when I get crossed up the wheel that's still on the ground is still pulling me along, or if there's a diagonal step where one wheel has to go up before the other, the one being forced into the rock doesn't just stop.

The suspension, now being able to articulate more freely and getting the chassis up away from the ground, is also a good improvement. Most of the stuff we did I definitely could have done on the old suspension, probably with just the front locker, maybe even without if I could get the lines right, but everything helped and it's a much more capable vehicle now because of it.

Here's a video of a fun little hill, second time up and it was a bit slippery, but point the front tires in the right direction and a small amount of momentum at the right time and it hopped right up 😄

Also got to test out the articulation now, much better than it was last trip.
As Andy said in the video, good fun!

 

[rgren2]

Both front wheels driving makes a bigger difference than most think. 👍

 

[geeyoutoo]

Both front wheels driving makes a bigger difference than most think. 👍

Yes, my elocker made a hell of a difference after it went in.

 

[rgren2]

The Lokka is a secret weapon, don’t put the stickers on, you have no switches, there is no giveaway, you will be more capable than the ‘good’ drivers. In the 4x4 club I was in, no one knew about mine, some very surprised members when I easily conquered bits the gun drivers couldn’t. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Old folk rule. 😉

 

[Marko_SJ]

Not much to talk about yet, on saturday @y b normal and I went out for a day at the Glasshouse Mountains, and I got to test out the suspension upgrades, diff gears, and front locker, and I'm very happy with the result.

The diff gears make a noticeable improvement to the idle torque and wheelspeed when trying to just crawl things, and the locker means when I get crossed up the wheel that's still on the ground is still pulling me along, or if there's a diagonal step where one wheel has to go up before the other, the one being forced into the rock doesn't just stop.

The suspension, now being able to articulate more freely and getting the chassis up away from the ground, is also a good improvement. Most of the stuff we did I definitely could have done on the old suspension, probably with just the front locker, maybe even without if I could get the lines right, but everything helped and it's a much more capable vehicle now because of it.

Here's a video of a fun little hill, second time up and it was a bit slippery, but point the front tires in the right direction and a small amount of momentum at the right time and it hopped right up 😄

Also got to test out the articulation now, much better than it was last trip.
As Andy said in the video, good fun!
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Suspension looks like it's working well Ethan.

MK is coming along nicely.

The Lokka is a secret weapon, don’t put the stickers on, you have no switches, there is no giveaway, you will be more capable than the ‘good’ drivers. In the 4x4 club I was in, no one knew about mine, some very surprised members when I easily conquered bits the gun drivers couldn’t. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Old folk rule. 😉

Factory diff lock is nice and quiet too. That an an auto make things look pretty funny on wombat holey stuff that the IFS stuff is lifting and spinning wheels everywhere on as the cross up.

Can only imagine how some lift and a front diff lock would be too 😍

 

[y b normal]

We'll have to tackle the powerline track next time..... haven't driven that for a little while.

 

[Ethanissan]

Can't wait for these new bushes, I'll get into how bad my wobbles were on the way back from the Glassy trip in a sec.

Garry and I have been sending emails back and forth sorting out what bushes to get, I decided after seeing prices and stuff to just get the ones I need, which are the top and bottom shackle bushes, and the bushes that go at the back of the leafs in the solid mounts.
In total there's 8 bushes. For just 1 side there's an only metal bush at the top of the shackle, a rubber bush with metal insert for the rear solid mount of the spring, and 2 rubber bushes at the front shackle mount of the spring (makes up 1 bush, 2 pieces that push into either side of the spring and meet in the middle).
All will be genuine rubber Nissan bushes sourced from Nizzbits. Garry said it's starting to become difficult to find bushes for the older vehicles, but thankfully I've got all these coming in about 3-4 weeks from a mixture of Japanese and Australian suppliers from what he told me.

Anyway, until the bushes arrive I've hung up the keys to the Patrol, and I'm back to dailying the Calais again. On the way back home from glasshouse (near a 30km/30min drive according to google, with 80 and 100 zones), I had to drive at or below 40kph with the hazards on, because anything faster and a small bump would send it into bad death wobbles. It wasn't quite that bad on the way there, I could maintain the speed limit for the most part, I think the combination of airing the tires down and back up again, lots of very bumpy dirt roads that were constantly triggering the wobble, and possibly some mud stuck in a tire (we didn't go through much bad mud or clay, I hate the stuff), really upset everything from the balance to the bushes, and everything just reacted badly afterwards to being driven at all.

I'm really hoping the new bushes solve some, if not most, or even all, of the problem, as I've already ruled out wheel bearings, and when I put the new housing under the front end, I checked the kingpins and there's no play in them (not much resistance like there should be, so new kingpin bearing kit soon), and all the tie rod ends appear in good condition with no play in them (only the steering box with some of that, but it's either no play and lots of tight resistance to steering, or some play and nice light steering).

In the meantime I'll just clean it, not much to do at the moment, maybe mount the intercooler like I said previously, and just look longingly at it, wondering why it demands so much of my attention