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1995 gq patrol nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody know what the spec is for the studs? Was looking at some uprated skyline ones that looked the same but I'm sure the head side is imperial thread? I thought it maybe useful if using a heavy turbo on the manifold.
 

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Seems everything on a td block is metric id say both sides are the same. There are 12 ten mm bolts holding the manifold on.

Believe me they are capable of holding a lot of weight and usually get brittle through hundreds of thousands of heat cycles. This is why the snap when you put a spanner near them, to remove ect.
 

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If you've got the stud out why not use a pitch guage and a vernier to determine the thread?


Just looks like m10x1.25 one side and m10x1.5 on the other
 

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Your prototyping and developing a turbo kit for commercial resale,

And you don't know how to measure the pitch and diameter of a bolt!!!!!
 

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1995 gq patrol nissan
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Discussion Starter #12
Your prototyping and developing a turbo kit for commercial resale,

And you don't know how to measure the pitch and diameter of a bolt!!!!!
Not as simple as measuring the pitch and diameter of a bolt and taking to a place in the UK - There is no engineering or manufacturing left here whatsoever, many people don't talk imperial here, only the old engineers who were doing the job 50 years ago and are now retired! It gets even more complicated when you start talking UNC/UNF threads as that is what most people sell here - both sided

So instead of me messing around with a pitch guage with my poor eyesight I thought somebody may already know.
 

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Not as simple as measuring the pitch and diameter of a bolt and taking to a place in the UK - There is no engineering or manufacturing left here whatsoever, many people don't talk imperial here, only the old engineers who were doing the job 50 years ago and are now retired! It gets even more complicated when you start talking UNC/UNF threads as that is what most people sell here - both sided

So instead of me messing around with a pitch guage with my poor eyesight I thought somebody may already know.
Stop making excuses.

Engineering and manufacturing are alive and well in the uk.

Why do you keep talking about imperial threads?

The only non-metric threads on a GQ are taper threads used in the water system.

The stud you have pictured is NOT unc/unf it's metric course to metric fine


Studs like that are readily available over here, try

K-Engineering threaded fasteners
or
Boltworthy Ltd
Unit I1
Cowlairs
Nottingham
Nottinghamshire NG5 9RA
01159 770432


Both within 10 miles of me both stock pratically every threaded fastener your ever likly to need
 

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1995 gq patrol nissan
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127 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thank you will have a look, i thought it looked imperial that's all and dont have a thread pitch guage. please note I am not an
Engineer just eager with projects! Eng and manufacturing aren't what they used to be here, hence making the the recession worse!


Stop making excuses.

Engineering and manufacturing are alive and well in the uk.

Why do you keep talking about imperial threads?

The only non-metric threads on a GQ are taper threads used in the water system.

The stud you have pictured is NOT unc/unf it's metric course to metric fine


Studs like that are readily available over here, try

K-Engineering threaded fasteners
or
Boltworthy Ltd
Unit I1
Cowlairs
Nottingham
Nottinghamshire NG5 9RA
01159 770432


Both within 10 miles of me both stock pratically every threaded fastener your ever likly to need
 

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Know this thread is a year old

but still curious as to whether anyone has the thread sizes?
I'd like to have some on hand before I start pulling/snapping manifold studs.
Thanks
 

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nissan patrol gu6 2008 crd
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Looks to me like m10 1.5 to m10 1.25 . I know on the zd and skylines the had m10 1.5 to m8 1.25. If you have a tap and die set you can use that to test the pitch and thread.
 

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the nut side really doesnt matter as long as you have a matching nut to the thread on it. could be bsp parralel and it wouldnt matter to farks.
long as the head is right and as said 10x1.5 will do the job. really you should use new nuts with them anyway as chances are the old ones are close to being farked.
 

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Just buy a full set of the correct studs & nuts - contact Nizzbits for current pricing, but a stud & nut was $5.50 ($66.00 for a set of 12).
If you do not use new studs, it will be your luck that you will snap the hardest to get to stud when you are reinstalling.
If you use a coarse pitch you can change the torque to clamping force relationship.
 
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