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Discussion Starter #1
i know that this question has been asked many many times, there was a thread last week but buggered if i can find it.

anyhow, where all the ones ive read, mine appears slightly different,

i get a clunking noise know and then only when i have slowed down to a virtual stop, its not always a big/loud clunk, it doesnt happen all the time, doesnt happen taking off or turning. its sound is like say having a gas bottle in the boot of the car and when you drop it on the boot floor you get that kinda thud.

I think but cannot be sure that its coming from the rear. it appears its only happened since i power washed under the car (yay a reason to not wash the car finally)

i am hoping to get under it tomorrow again and look at re-greasing.

happy straya day folks
 

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Slip joint on tail shaft.. Had same issue, as have others, ild be looking there.. Looks not too bad on the bench but when you replace it it will fix it..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for helping. Now spending valuable drinking time looking for a diagram so i know exactly what joint it is when i go shopping. Hoping its a diy jobby, been long time since i did my own maintenance. Actually looking forward to it and familiarising myself with a car again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
uni joints ordered n in the post,lil confused, are the uni joints the slip joint, or is the slip joint something else entirely?

cheers
 

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If its only happened since washing under car, i would be more inclined to think it's coming from one of your rubber mounts.

Most likely body mounts but it could be panhard as well.. The panhard are the easiest to check and i would be starting there.

Have a good look around where you applied the pressure washer and something could be staring you in the face.

It might be slip,but i would look elsewhere first.
 

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uni joints ordered n in the post,lil confused, are the uni joints the slip joint, or is the slip joint something else entirely?

cheers
Uni joints and slip joints are two different things. Your rear driveshaft is telescopic so to speak. This means it can extend and retract when needed. The slip joint is where the inner and outer tubes slide. Hopes this makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
have had a good look around, everything seems taught, so inclined to go through changing mounts, its 13yrs old so could probably do with some new rubbers. Ill leave the body mounts till last though (don't have $400 - $500 spare for a set of these) not even sure it ever went off road until i bought it as appears exceptionally clean.
Struggling to find split joints, does anyone know where i can purchase these or are they known as a different name. i would goto nissan direct but up here they wanted $190 per uni joint, wasn't paying that. time to buy the Haynes manual also me thinks.
 

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slip joint isn't something you can buy, it's where the small section of tailshaft slips into the big section.
i'd be looking at swaybar link bushes and d bushes. start with the easy/cheap stuff first. plus as you said it's an old car, they need replacing anyway
 

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have had a good look around, everything seems taught, so inclined to go through changing mounts, its 13yrs old so could probably do with some new rubbers. Ill leave the body mounts till last though (don't have $400 - $500 spare for a set of these) not even sure it ever went off road until i bought it as appears exceptionally clean.
Struggling to find split joints, does anyone know where i can purchase these or are they known as a different name. i would goto nissan direct but up here they wanted $190 per uni joint, wasn't paying that. time to buy the Haynes manual also me thinks.

As reikon said x2- if it is the slip joint you will need to remove the tail shaft and send it to a specialist to do it properly(not cheap prob around $400). I would get under there with a grease gun and lube everything first. I cant see how a presure wash would cause this. Check that the welsch plug is still in the yoke of the joint and check the rubber boots that cover the uni joints to see if you have disturbed them with the blast of water. You will have grease nipples on both uni joints and one on this slip yoke. grease up first and see how you go. If it changes the noise at all your going in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
whilst under the motor putting in diff breather, i had another butchers, i wanted to know, the bar that crosses the rear, whilst the brackets are different, one bolt thread is much further out than the other, is this normal. also is this normal for the tailshaft? (see pic)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
whilst under the motor putting in diff breather, i had another butchers, i wanted to know, the bar that crosses the rear, whilst the brackets are different, one bolt thread is much further out than the other, is this normal. also is this normal for the tailshaft? (see pic)
 

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All looks pretty normal mate but play in these things can't be seen from a photo.

Couple of observations from the CENTRE PIC.

When was the last time the uni's and slip joint got some grease?
Second thing is there is an interesting mark on the shaft yoke. Looks like something has come into contact with at some point while it was rotating. Probably absolutely nothing, could have been a stick out in the bush. LOL. From the pic it just looks like it might have gone through to metal. I'm still at a loss like you mate.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I actually never noticed that. To busy running the line for the breather i guess. Yes i thought the uni joint looked a lil dry but as have new ones coming this week figured id would wait. As for the slip joint, guessing this would be greased inside the rubber? Whilst i have the tailshaft off i can clean and grease up. I did come across an exhaust mount missing a bolt, have replaced though dont think this would cause the clunking noise, but one never knows. All the rubbers i looked at appeared to be in good condition also.

Have to sat tho, enjoyed getting dirty under a motor again...been years since i worked on cars.
 

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Hi Lovejones,
Is it an auto ? Reason I ask is that sometimes when you are coming to a virtual stop it is changing down into first gear. Not saying that is the issue, but I have heard autos doing that.
Regards :)
 

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A lot of so-called maintenance free u/j's have blanking plugs where a grease nipple should be. Often they have the thread, so it's just a case of fitting one.

I race a 4wd Ford Sierra. All the u/j's are blanked off, and it got through u/j's, especially the front drive shaft frequently.

Fitted grease nipples, topped up every time I'm under the car, and touch wood, no u/j issues for nearly a decade.
 
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