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Discussion Starter #1
I went to wheel alignment today dut it could not be done as the tie rod tube was fogged out and needs replacing.
Phoned Nissan, $626.00 + then the new tie rod ends.
Phoned superior engineering and for one twice as strong with tie rod ends, $330.00 del. to Adelaide.
Has anyone else had this?

Shane.
 

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I went to wheel alignment today dut it could not be done as the tie rod tube was fogged out and needs replacing.
Phoned Nissan, $626.00 + then the new tie rod ends.
Phoned superior engineering and for one twice as strong with tie rod ends, $330.00 del. to Adelaide.
Has anyone else had this?

Shane.
Not yet, how is the tube flogged out? Is it all bent, dented, and threads stuffed? Would have thought the ends might need replacing when worn, and have seen aftermarket units with non nissan tie rod ends like this one. Not sure of legalities, or why the change from standard tube ends, perhaps you have found out why?
NISSAN PATROL GU DRAG LINK H/DUTY REPLACBL TIE ROD END (eBay item 290519057061 end time 11-Jan-11 18:43:53 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The threads are oval shaped, and when tightened up would still move up and down. the nuts were srill tight against the tube so it was not that.
The Mechanic said this is the third one he has done.
Just wanted to know if anyone else has come across this?

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have ordered one Mat.

cheers.
 

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The threads are oval shaped, and when tightened up would still move up and down. the nuts were srill tight against the tube so it was not that.
The Mechanic said this is the third one he has done.
Just wanted to know if anyone else has come across this?

Cheers.
So your saying the tie rod end clamp bolts were not holding the tie rod end snug on the tube thread?
 

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eh they're a wear component, don't see the big issue especially if you've done over 100,000km.
Are you serious? Tie rod ends are a wear component for sure, but that big heavy connecting tube?? Help me understand why they should wear out in under 100k please:confused: tyres, and suspension bushes should wear out in 300k, but not items like this surely! I have just adjusted my toe in and replaced a split tie rod dust boot so am familiar with the arrangement.
 

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I don't know about any one else's GU but the 2007 sitting out the side has a 2 piece tie rod. Only one end is replaceable/adjustable for toe.

Means the whole item turns into the replace rather than repair.

My GQ was the same funnily enough. They don't need to be that way for sure but such is the way of modern manufacturing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So your saying the tie rod end clamp bolts were not holding the tie rod end snug on the tube thread?
_____________________________________________________________________________

Yes where the tie rod ends thread into the tube has oval-ed out.
This is not a wear component, I would have thought the tie rod parting from the tube would be a life or death component.
JUST asking if its happened to anyone else.


Shane.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I don't know about any one else's GU but the 2007 sitting out the side has a 2 piece tie rod. Only one end is replaceable/adjustable for toe.
________________________________________________________________________

Mine is a 2000 GU, both ends are threaded

cheers
 

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I don't know about any one else's GU but the 2007 sitting out the side has a 2 piece tie rod. Only one end is replaceable/adjustable for toe.
________________________________________________________________________

Mine is a 2000 GU, both ends are threaded

cheers
My 2005 has two tie rod ends, both look identical, one is left hand thread and to adjust toe in you loosen clamping bolts on tie rod ends and rotate the tube toward the front of the car. Both ends are threaded and both ends are replacable. I got a price from nissan yesterday of $158 each. I had to use a big stillsons to rotate mine with some crc on the thread. nice and tight. Only rotated it 1/4 of a turn to go from 3mm toe out to 3mm toe in. Looks big and heavy duty, although I was a little surprised the stud on the tie rod end was not a bigger diameter. 18mm only where the boot sits at the top of the taper. Not much bigger than the old ford falcons I grew up on! I must say, if items such as the drag link on nissans are a regularly replaced wear item I am stuffed if I am happy with their engineering:-(
I was under the impression that items like Superior engineering drag links/tie rods are for those with big lift who want more adjustability, and competition type driving habits.
 

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So your saying the tie rod end clamp bolts were not holding the tie rod end snug on the tube thread?
_____________________________________________________________________________

Yes where the tie rod ends thread into the tube has oval-ed out.
This is not a wear component, I would have thought the tie rod parting from the tube would be a life or death component.
JUST asking if its happened to anyone else.


Shane.
Maybe its been tightened up too much? Sounds strange, would have thought they would be thicker material. How thick would the tube walls be?
 

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Mine is a 2000 GU, both ends are threaded
cheers
So are mine 2005 GU. Having only one adjustable end on the track rod must be an absolute ass of an adjustment meaning knocking the ball joint out to be able to turn it, unless of course it is a single double threaded unit which I doubt it is. Common on drag links for trucks.
 

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two different units here...

Now just a minute here people. there are two units here. One is behind the diff, and joins the two steering knuckles together, with tie rod ends, both of which on mine are threaded and this is what adjusts toe in/out. The steering drag link which is what is listed by Superior from what i can see, is in front of the diff and has the steering damper attatched to it. On my 2005 neither end is threaded, both are welded. This assembly would have to be replaced wholis bolis if an end wore out. I intend to re-grease all mine and put new boots on the lot when I get around to it.

From the moderator of Nissan Patrol.com: http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/foru...at-to-keep-my-eye-on-Preventative-Maintenance

STEERING;
Checking for wear in steering components;
To check for wear in steering components you will need two people.
First person to operate the steering, second person underneath the car looking for excessive movement.With the engine off, person one needs to rock the steering wheel (from the straight ahead position) from left to right at the rate of about once per second. The steering doesn't need to be moved far, if they put one hand at the top of the wheel and move it from about the 11 o'clock position to 1 o'clock position is usually enough.

Person two needs to carefully inspect each steering joint, watching, feeling and listening for wear at each joint. For example, the drag link rod end where it attaches to the pitman arm on the steering box. As the pitman arm moves back an forth, the drag link should move with it, there should not be any movement in the joint on the end of the drag link or any of the other joints.

DRAG LINK; The joints on the end of the standard drag link (the steering arm in front of the front diff) are part of the link and can not be adjusted or replaced. If you find any wear in the joints it will need to be replaced. I recommend replacing the standard fixed link with an aftermarket heavy duty adjustable drag link. With the drag link sitting out in front of the diff it is exposed and easily damaged, aftermarket drag links are a lot stronger. Fitting an adjustable link will allow you to properly centre the steering if required. (moving the steering wheel on its splines does not centre the steering).
For those who like their 4WDing a little more hardcore, pay the extra and get a competition spec drag link with female threaded rod ends.

TIE ROD; The tie rod (the steering arm behind the front diff linking the left and right steering hubs together) is adjustable and has replaceable rod ends. The tie rod is adjusted to set toe in when you get a wheel alignment. For hard core off roader's the tie rod can be replaced with a heavy duty part.
 

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Looking at the parts listing the tie rod assy (behind the diff housing) changed design & part number on 06/2001

The early type had a female tube & male ends with locknuts on the threads that bear up against the end of the female tube and the later type had a male tube & female ends that clamp around the male tube (on all year models both ends are ajustable)
The design stayed the same but there was another change of part number in 08/2004 (introduction of GU4)

It shows the ends being available seperate parts but if you need the tube it comes as a assembly with the ends on all year models

The drag link (in front of the diff housing) has one threaded end (steering box end) and one welded end up to 2/2000 and after that date went to a one piece rod with both ends welded

Regards Don
 

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actually that might be correct, i am thinking of the drag link...lol. tie rod and drag link are both infront of the axle on my current vehicle, is a bit trippy at times when late :p
 

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tie rod and drag link are both infront of the axle on my current vehicle, is a bit trippy at times when late :p
What's your current vehicle Yom?
 
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