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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone got a recommendation for a turbo repairer in the southeast Queensland area (preferably somewhere around Brisbane southside, Logan, northern Gold Coast)?

Car is a 2002 GU, ZD30Di
Pretty sure it's the water cooled type turbo, hense would prefer rebuild over a new non water cooled.

I'm guessing it's done an oil seal. School run this morning seemed to start out as normal, slight noise that I thought was one of the boys imitating the increasing revs of the engine.
Then noticed boost was low and a little white smoke (strong burnt oil smell).
Was still driving ok and not making dangerous noises so pushed through gently to get the boys to school (it's a short trip and I was in a 'I don't give a stuff if you blow up' mood).
By the time we got to school there was a billowing white smoke screen behind us. Still sounded to be running fine though.
Engine didn't run-on like I've read others mention. Shut down as normal.
No visible external leaks.

I guess I'll be learning how to remove/replace a turbo next! ☹😫🤬
To be fair, as far as I know it could be the original turbo, and the car is approaching 300,000klm.
 

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nissan
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Generally a new Centre Housing & Rotating Assembly is cheaper than overhaul and balance of an existing item. You just add your own turbine and compressor housings to the new CHRA. Is the turbo original? Most aftermarket turbos have water cooling facilities but they are often not used on diesel engines.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Has anyone got a recommendation for a turbo repairer in the southeast Queensland area (preferably somewhere around Brisbane southside, Logan, northern Gold Coast)?

Car is a 2002 GU, ZD30Di
Pretty sure it's the water cooled type turbo, hense would prefer rebuild over a new non water cooled.

I'm guessing it's done an oil seal. School run this morning seemed to start out as normal, slight noise that I thought was one of the boys imitating the increasing revs of the engine.
Then noticed boost was low and a little white smoke (strong burnt oil smell).
Was still driving ok and not making dangerous noises so pushed through gently to get the boys to school (it's a short trip and I was in a 'I don't give a stuff if you blow up' mood).
By the time we got to school there was a billowing white smoke screen behind us. Still sounded to be running fine though.
Engine didn't run-on like I've read others mention. Shut down as normal.
No visible external leaks.

I guess I'll be learning how to remove/replace a turbo next! ☹😫🤬
To be fair, as far as I know it could be the original turbo, and the car is approaching 300,000klm.
Water cooling on the ZD30 turbo finished around mid 2002, if you do have it I would recommend retaining it, dropping water cooling was just a Nissan cost saving exercise like many other things around that time. If you look at the passenger side front of the head you should see a banjo bolt through an 8mm water line if you have water cooling, it also bolts to the back of the turbo against the block whereas the oil lines bolt to bottom. If it is water cooled it is a pain in the arse to get off, I've done it several times while playing. There was a young guy here on the sunny coast that rebuilt turbos, I'll have a look and see if he's still around and doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys.
Overboard, replacing just the CHRA sounds interesting, might have to look into that. Any tips on where to buy the parts?

Geeyoutoo, I do recall a banjo on or near the front engine cover when I was dealing with my I.P./timing/scissor gear issue.

I'll have another look in the morning to confirm it's water cooled and to confirm it is a genuine OEM.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Thanks guys.
Overboard, replacing just the CHRA sounds interesting, might have to look into that. Any tips on where to buy the parts?

Geeyoutoo, I do recall a banjo on or near the front engine cover when I was dealing with my I.P./timing/scissor gear issue.

I'll have another look in the morning to confirm it's water cooled and to confirm it is a genuine OEM.
PM sent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Being a ZD30, it might be worth getting a professional opinion on what the issue is before guessing it's a turbo seal.
Yeah fair point JFF45. I just assumed turbo from the burning smoke and turbo noise.
What are some other possibilities? Holed piston?

I'm working midnight's at the moment so can't get too deep into things during the day or I don't get enough sleep.
And she's out in the open at the moment so the rain is stopping me from having a decent look at things. I've got almost all Friday free and almost all weekend so I'll put her in the shed Friday and do a bit of probing before any major surgery.
I'm no professional but I like to do all my own work where I can. Had too many disappointing results from "qualified mechanics".
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Yeah fair point JFF45. I just assumed turbo from the burning smoke and turbo noise.
What are some other possibilities? Holed piston?

I'm working midnight's at the moment so can't get too deep into things during the day or I don't get enough sleep.
And she's out in the open at the moment so the rain is stopping me from having a decent look at things. I've got almost all Friday free and almost all weekend so I'll put her in the shed Friday and do a bit of probing before any major surgery.
I'm no professional but I like to do all my own work where I can. Had too many disappointing results from "qualified mechanics".
Take front bend off the turbo and inspect the compwheel, you should have a small amount of sideplay but not enough for the compwheel to contact the housing, there should be no endfloat. There may be some markings in the housing depending on how good your airfilter has been performing over the years but the compwheel should under no circumstances touch the housing. If a seal has gone you will see oil in the housing, but you need to rule out what has come from the breather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Take front bend off the turbo and inspect the compwheel, you should have a small amount of sideplay but not enough for the compwheel to contact the housing, there should be no endfloat. There may be some markings in the housing depending on how good your airfilter has been performing over the years but the compwheel should under no circumstances touch the housing. If a seal has gone you will see oil in the housing, but you need to rule out what has come from the breather.
Cheers Geeyoutoo, that'll be my first port of call. I have a catch can that seems to do an ok job so I'll see how much oil is in the turbo.
I'll probably take the hoses off both ends of the turbo and the intercooler just to inspect and be sure there's nothing gone through.

If that all looks ok I'll try a compression test.
I couldn't get to see much today with the rain but the coolant level still looked perfect and no air pockets in the top tank. Had a look to confirm it that it is water-cooled, could see some pipe work but again with the rain it made it difficult to confirm where it was going. Will try again tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well well well....

Had a chance this morning so thought I'd do a quick look inside the hose from the turbo to the intercooler, then the intercooler to the throttle body, and found heaps of oil! My catch can isn't 100% but it's better than that!

Intercooler inlet and throttle body inlet.
Automotive tire Musical instrument Composite material Gas Rim


Puddle of oil inside hose from intercooler outlet to throttle body.
Automotive tire Tire Wheel Synthetic rubber Rim


That grabbed my interest so decided to spend a bit more time pulling the bend off the intake side of the turbo that Geeyoutoo mentioned. No noticeable endfloat on the compwheel (by hand) but HEAPS of sideways movement. I took a video but it's too big to add.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Are there contact marks on the housing throat that would indicate the the compwheel has been rubbing, you may also see contact marks on the compwheel, can you feel it touch the housing when you rattle it side to side?
Maybe clean it up and drive for a week and pull the front off again and check for oil. You can also temporarily run the breather hose into a milk bottle or such for the same period just to rule out catch can/breather, don't forget to plug the hole the breather connects to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Are there contact marks on the housing throat that would indicate the the compwheel has been rubbing, you may also see contact marks on the compwheel, can you feel it touch the housing when you rattle it side to side?
Maybe clean it up and drive for a week and pull the front off again and check for oil. You can also temporarily run the breather hose into a milk bottle or such for the same period just to rule out catch can/breather, don't forget to plug the hole the breather connects to.
I got a screen grab from the video, definitely looks like rubbing to me, and I'm pretty sure the vanes aren't spose to have that curve to the back half but this is my first dance with a turbo so I could be wrong.
You can hear it tapping in the video when moving it from side/side and up/down. Will keep trying to get the video up.

Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Rim Automotive lighting


I pulled the breather hose off that goes from the catch can to the intake hose when I was removing the front bend off the turbo and no oil came out of it. My catch can hose is clear and does have some staining but looks the same as it has in a long time. And there is no oil in the little clear pipe on the side of the catch can which means it's close to empty. Where as this was the pool of oil in the hose from the intercooler to throttle body.
Fluid Asphalt Drinkware Road surface Gas


Btw, when I checked the oil level after the tow home it was off the bottom of the dip stick (it's the shorter dipstick) and took about 1.5-2L of oil to get it up to about 3/4 healthy range on the dip stick.
Going to start it tomorrow to move it into the shed so I'll get a pic of the smoke screen. 😉
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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For video you will need to upload the vid to something like YouTube or some other storage site and then link it into your post.
 

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Let's see if this works.
Video of compwheel
OMG that is screwed, the still photograph didn't give that impression, one of the worst I've seen, luckily all that oil in the system will have trapped the particles of the compwheel that got sucked into the intercooler, do not drive it. Remove IC and all pipework back to and including ThrottleBody and clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
OMG that is screwed, the still photograph didn't give that impression, one of the worst I've seen
Hahaha, sorry but your response did make me laugh a little. You've been pretty calm and methodical to this point. I thought it seemed bad but had no real idea. You're response seems to seal it. 😄

I will have to start it to get it into the shed unfortunately as it's up hill.
The comp wheel did seem to self-centre and a close look makes we wonder if the wear has been a gradual process until the seal finally went. Didn't notice any nasty bits when I tipped the oil out of the hose in the picture.
Will it be safe to run it briefly without the hose connected from the turbo to the intercooler (after cleaning out the pipework)?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Hahaha, sorry but your response did make me laugh a little. You've been pretty calm and methodical to this point. I thought it seemed bad but had no real idea. You're response seems to seal it. 😄

I will have to start it to get it into the shed unfortunately as it's up hill.
The comp wheel did seem to self-centre and a close look makes we wonder if the wear has been a gradual process until the seal finally went. Didn't notice any nasty bits when I tipped the oil out of the hose in the picture.
Will it be safe to run it briefly without the hose connected from the turbo to the intercooler (after cleaning out the pipework)?
You will be fine to move it, now you will find out how little grunt they have without the turbo, lol.
When you remove the turbo, loosen the 3 nuts that hold it to the exhaust manifold, then undo the banjo bolts and remove them, when you put it back work backwards, so mount the turbo on the manifold an just start the nuts, then fit the relevant banjo bolts, if you tighten the 3 nuts first it is very easy to cross thread the banjos.
Man getting that banjo bolt at the front of the head is a challenge.... Do you have a second battery? if so I wish you all the luck in the world, all that had to be removed, cradle and all to get at mine.
 
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