their very early pumps were good.So to conclude in simple terms
-ufi old pumps = crap
-new pumps = good
The basic gist here is that because we do not focus solely on one aspect (afr) we condone smoke.
Far from the truth.
Previous guy in charge of pumps was a simple fuel guy, not experience daily driving a td car. His, like other pump builders only real concern was hitting hp targets.
Before I started full time, and upto him being dismissed, no changes had really been made, or development/testing etc had been done from his first attempts, which yes, I gave a starting point for, and was never altered from because "it hit the hp target".
Things have changed. Development in one way or the other continues.
But all this waffle is getting very tiresome. We are basically back to the old days.
UFI offer the same back up and warrenty etc as any other company producing modified pumps, and upgraded turbos. We do not care what other companies do or don't do, recommend etc, that is their business.
Years of both testing, hundreds of hours spent on the dyno, along with actual real world situations encountered in daily driving is what guides any recommendations we give. This vastly different to experience gained from customer cars seen infrequently.
We, and I, take with a grain of salt the opinions of those who have continually over the last 8-9yrs tried everything possible to discredit our product.
On a personal level, I find it a little perplexing, that someone who's sole experience is dyno time and test drives.
How can someone with that kind of experience sit there and preach daily driving attributes to people who drive these vehicles everyday of the week?
And this is not limited to td powered vehicles either.
We have 4 patrols in our workshop everyday belonging to employees, from mine, which is a bit out there these days, to basic tuned standard pumped gu's.
They all have parts on them for testing so we can cover a wide variety of setups.
Oh, and we also have the ****ta, which is at another level again.
End of discussion for me, I have better things to do, like drive my Ute, build cool ****, and find improvements everyone can enjoy.
It tells me Matt knew what he was doing, then **** got busy, then some other bloke did it, then bambill took over. Sounds like the people with passion are the people that drive change... Ohh so many bad punstheir very early pumps were good.
then they changed for what ever reason to the style of pump i had. which was poo,
then recently changed to a pump similar to what their very early pumps were but bettered now. so new style pumps are good.
I wish I had known this at the time to be honest. I was in the same boat as others, we fitted a few with excellent results that tuned up really well, And I started pushing them above all others as a result. Then run into a batch that were absolute smoke machines, extremely rattly at cruise etc...It tells me Matt knew what he was doing, then **** got busy, then some other bloke did it, then bambill took over. Sounds like the people with passion are the people that drive change... Ohh so many bad puns
this was mine in a nut shell. smoked like a bastard, rattly and couldnt for the life of me tune it out. you could limit the smoke but it just wouldnt go.Then run into a batch that were absolute smoke machines, extremely rattly at cruise etc...
Pumps got sent back to be checked and recalibrated.. which to UFI's credit they actually reimbursed the customer the cost of all this which no other pump supplier would have even considered.
But the result was never really there in terms of performance vs smoke/noise vs the DC pumps with a few little tweaks.
Almost spot-on DT.Probably warped the exhaust manifold turbo to manifold flange or something like that mate.
Happens on the zd30's frequently.
You should be able to pull the heat shield off and see where its leaking, there will be a soot buildup aroudn the area.
From page 178 a year ago;any ideas where i can get a 30psi wastegate spring for my ufi turbo? are they generic at all
When I pulled mine apart, it was the same dimensions as this one;
Mamba Forge Adjustable Turbo Wastegate Actuator Spring 1 65BAR 24PSI RED Color | eBay
I have read that the spring is best within 7psi of required psi or as close to that as possilbe.i reckon i need about 30psi to keep egts under control.
Might have to bump it up a little more. but its currently standard what ever original spring is.
It's not so much about what open pressure the actuator is but about what you are wanting to achieve. Electronic control makes it easy because you can set what top boost you want regardless of EMP and set at what point you want the gate to start opening at. In other words you can get the max spool possible from a turbo. EMP stuffs up actuator operation points.I have read that the spring is best within 7psi of required psi or as close to that as possible.
Hopefully one of the Guru's will advise