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Pretty Much as the man said..

It just needed the passion and the right methodology approach..
Didn't mean any malice.
The only way to move forward is with failure and admitting it is hard to do.
 

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So to conclude in simple terms
-ufi old pumps = crap
-new pumps = good
?
:)
their very early pumps were good.
then they changed for what ever reason to the style of pump i had. which was poo,
then recently changed to a pump similar to what their very early pumps were but bettered now. so new style pumps are good.
 

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The basic gist here is that because we do not focus solely on one aspect (afr) we condone smoke.
Far from the truth.
Previous guy in charge of pumps was a simple fuel guy, not experience daily driving a td car. His, like other pump builders only real concern was hitting hp targets.
Before I started full time, and upto him being dismissed, no changes had really been made, or development/testing etc had been done from his first attempts, which yes, I gave a starting point for, and was never altered from because "it hit the hp target".
Regardless.
Things have changed. Development in one way or the other continues.
But all this waffle is getting very tiresome. We are basically back to the old days.
UFI offer the same back up and warrenty etc as any other company producing modified pumps, and upgraded turbos. We do not care what other companies do or don't do, recommend etc, that is their business.
Years of both testing, hundreds of hours spent on the dyno, along with actual real world situations encountered in daily driving is what guides any recommendations we give. This vastly different to experience gained from customer cars seen infrequently.
We, and I, take with a grain of salt the opinions of those who have continually over the last 8-9yrs tried everything possible to discredit our product.
On a personal level, I find it a little perplexing, that someone who's sole experience is dyno time and test drives.
How can someone with that kind of experience sit there and preach daily driving attributes to people who drive these vehicles everyday of the week?
And this is not limited to td powered vehicles either.
We have 4 patrols in our workshop everyday belonging to employees, from mine, which is a bit out there these days, to basic tuned standard pumped gu's.
They all have parts on them for testing so we can cover a wide variety of setups.
Oh, and we also have the ****ta, which is at another level again.
End of discussion for me, I have better things to do, like drive my Ute, build cool ****, and find improvements everyone can enjoy.


Taking curiosity and questions as trying to discredit a product is a cop-out :rolleyes:



But yeah I drive probably 10-20 patrols a week in the various states of tune, and feel it gives me a really good basis of comparison vs driving one patrol on a daily basis.

I was curious to see AFR mentioned as a bit of a measuring stick with the UFI facebook post regarding the race car this evening?
Seeing as torque was the same, power and boost response was up lower in the rev range but down higher in the rev range yet AFR was above 18:1 above 2300rpm rather than 14-15:1 what does that tell you exactly?
 

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their very early pumps were good.
then they changed for what ever reason to the style of pump i had. which was poo,
then recently changed to a pump similar to what their very early pumps were but bettered now. so new style pumps are good.
It tells me Matt knew what he was doing, then **** got busy, then some other bloke did it, then bambill took over. Sounds like the people with passion are the people that drive change... Ohh so many bad puns
 

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It tells me Matt knew what he was doing, then **** got busy, then some other bloke did it, then bambill took over. Sounds like the people with passion are the people that drive change... Ohh so many bad puns
I wish I had known this at the time to be honest. I was in the same boat as others, we fitted a few with excellent results that tuned up really well, And I started pushing them above all others as a result. Then run into a batch that were absolute smoke machines, extremely rattly at cruise etc...
Pumps got sent back to be checked and recalibrated.. which to UFI's credit they actually reimbursed the customer the cost of all this which no other pump supplier would have even considered.
But the result was never really there in terms of performance vs smoke/noise vs the DC pumps with a few little tweaks.

Since that time, gturbo came out with some awesome turbo's that worked well with even the most horrid pumps, and all the other pump builders made good progress with their products. If Matt or Marty find this insulting that someone would try a competitors product so be it. But thats how it was at the time UFI or garrett as the thread is titled with almost fewer choices in decent pump's.

These days, wow. Ufi, P4x4, garrett, BW-EFR, Gturbo, mamba, kowabunga, Arashi, IHI. So many possibilities for good turbos. And the pump scene is alive and kicking on all fronts.
Not all are top Echelon, but most can net that 160-180kw very safely with awesome response.
 

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Then run into a batch that were absolute smoke machines, extremely rattly at cruise etc...
Pumps got sent back to be checked and recalibrated.. which to UFI's credit they actually reimbursed the customer the cost of all this which no other pump supplier would have even considered.
But the result was never really there in terms of performance vs smoke/noise vs the DC pumps with a few little tweaks.
this was mine in a nut shell. smoked like a bastard, rattly and couldnt for the life of me tune it out. you could limit the smoke but it just wouldnt go.

until the other month i hadnt bothered sending it back and forth. i watched another bloke send his back a few times and no difference. i think he would of stuck with the higher hp setting had he have gotten the pump i have now.
night and days better than about 18 months ago.
i cant compare to say a dc pump cause ive never driven one but im happy with this one as it is now.
 

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Probably warped the exhaust manifold turbo to manifold flange or something like that mate.
Happens on the zd30's frequently.
You should be able to pull the heat shield off and see where its leaking, there will be a soot buildup aroudn the area.
Almost spot-on DT.
It was loose nuts on the studs on the back of the turbo-to-dump pipe flange.
 

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Previously known as twodiffs
1991 GQ Safari.
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You'll need to check what spring you have, they are either parallel type or cone shaped. I got mine off eBay iirc but got the wrong type.....didn't know until I went to change Springs.
Mine is 1.7bar....red I think, was 4yrs ago i changed it.

Gives me 30psi or more if I want it.
 
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i reckon i need about 30psi to keep egts under control.
Might have to bump it up a little more. but its currently standard what ever original spring is.
I have read that the spring is best within 7psi of required psi or as close to that as possilbe.
Hopefully one of the Guru's will advise
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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I have read that the spring is best within 7psi of required psi or as close to that as possible.
Hopefully one of the Guru's will advise
It's not so much about what open pressure the actuator is but about what you are wanting to achieve. Electronic control makes it easy because you can set what top boost you want regardless of EMP and set at what point you want the gate to start opening at. In other words you can get the max spool possible from a turbo. EMP stuffs up actuator operation points.

With manual control you have to play the compromise route. You need to know or have the ability to measure on the turbo open gate points then use preload to adjust that point but having enough travel left in the actuator to achieve enough gate open value to bleed of enough gas to hold peak pressure all the way to the end of your rpm range. To much travel you loose boost to little travel you will increase EMP loosing volume not boost psi.

Actuators are not all equal there are a few different types which have different characteristics on when they open and at what pressure to travel ratio they activate at. So really its a blueprinting exercise of rednecking to achieve what it is your are wanting.

Some actuators are measured at free crack open pressure like turbosmart, garret are measured at max travel pressure as are most piston type actuators, which usually have a non linear travel ratio.

For manual controllers it is usual to try to match your max travel pressure to your desired pressure. Then use preload to set gate open point for spool speed leaving enough max travel to not get too much EMP to stuff the shaft rpm which dictates volume flow. Once you set the ratio for gate open point to max gate open point then you set the manual controller for max boost pressure all things being equal hoping you have enough travel left to have ideal EMP..

As i keep saying in all these type of post i write, boost psi is only a very tiny and small portion of what we need to be adjusting on a turbo. Boost is only one measure and has fcuk all to do with torque/power.

Try to remember with turbos, pressure is resistance that means less volume for our type of compressor maps and design. Volume is power not boost PSI.
 

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Previously known as twodiffs
1991 GQ Safari.
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3,679 Posts
I'm curious about one thing, I've never read anywhere about someone removing a shim from the BC of a DC6....for those of you who have a high power dc6, when you bolt it on - have you got that hp straight away?.

Just curious because when I put my dc3 on which was set at 170hp.....the Safari didn't really come alive until I removed a shim. :confused:
 

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Previously known as twodiffs
1991 GQ Safari.
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3,679 Posts
Thanks DT and Bambill for your input.
Decision was made a couple of weeks ago and I've now got a brand spankers DC6 on the way back from Rockhampton :bananada:
 
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