Hi peoples, I've just taken my drivers side rear wheel & calipers off to do brake pad change & noticed the disc rotor was loose & if I took the rest of the brake set-up off it would come off completely. Is this normal???????
Thanks
Thanks
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yes mate, it is held on by the wheel. The wheel studs are attached to the axle and just poke through the disk.
Jobs right mate.
If you have not done the other side yet you dont have to remove the caliper completely. Just undo the top bolt that looks like it has a fluted black rubber cover, take that bolt out and undo the bottom one that is the same and the caliper will just fold out like on a bottom hinge and off the disk and allow you to change you pads.
Cheers mate.
Jobs right mate.
If you have not done the other side yet you dont have to remove the caliper completely. Just undo the top bolt that looks like it has a fluted black rubber cover, take that bolt out and undo the bottom one that is the same and the caliper will just fold out like on a bottom hinge and off the disk and allow you to change you pads.
Cheers mate.
Yeah I was only doing the centre pieces, just thought it was called "caliper", pissed off though, went to do the other side & that 1 bolt, its the bottom one on the rear, is rounded (not by me) so will have to see what I can do????
Thanks for all the help & info guys, muchly appreciated :bigthumb:
Thanks for all the help & info guys, muchly appreciated :bigthumb:
if u get stuck and have a welder, weld a small bit of steel to the bolt head to undo it then replace the bolt. Good luck buddy
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6 Posts
sorry to say but if you have to ask a question such as this you shouldnt be doing your own brakes
At least he is having a go...... forums are for gaining advice from people who may be able to help with what you want to achieve.
Not everyone is an apprentice mechanic.
Yeah true, but are brakes a good thing to start on?
"Yeah I was only doing the centre pieces, just thought it was called "caliper","
At the very least you should have a manual, and know what parts are called. there is far more to safe efficient brakes - than 'pads'.
"Yeah I was only doing the centre pieces, just thought it was called "caliper","
At the very least you should have a manual, and know what parts are called. there is far more to safe efficient brakes - than 'pads'.
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1,517 Posts
And, like me, you can accelerate the learning process by starting out with a Land Rover!There's only one real way to learn about anything mechanical, pull it apart and put it back together again
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3,611 Posts
And, like me, you can accelerate the learning process by starting out with a Land Rover!
A landrover has nothing on an MG.
& Firelighta as well -
I read up on the manual before I started & it said, - " (4) Remove the lower pin bolt from the caliper & rotate caliper body upwards on the upper guide pin to expose pads, shims & retainers in the caliper anchor" - so I guess I WAS right to call it the caliper eh.
As for doing my own brakes, I've done them on the last (including this 1) four 4wd's, 1 paj, 2 Explorers & now the Patrol, so I'm not an absolute beginner. I just got worried when the disc was loose as have never experienced that before thats all & thought there might have been a major problem, so I jumped on the forums to find out.
Thanks for all the help guys, I have learned something from here anyway, which is as stated earlier, part of the reason for these forums.
& nethergate I might look at doing that or at least something similar, thanks :bigthumb:
Well finally got the other side done yesterday, used neighbours "Multirench" sockets, these things are great as they fit both imperial & metric by using the flat sides to grip & not relying on the corners. so to speak.
Anyway when I got the old pads (Ferodo 4x4) out they were only worn down about 2mm from the new ones, so that means someone did a bodgy on it before as the drivers side were a different brand & a hell of a lot older with only about 2 to 3mm left on them & starting to crumble. I will be keeping the Ferodo's for emergency spares I think as they're to good to throw.
Thanks for all the advice people's :mrgreen:
Anyway when I got the old pads (Ferodo 4x4) out they were only worn down about 2mm from the new ones, so that means someone did a bodgy on it before as the drivers side were a different brand & a hell of a lot older with only about 2 to 3mm left on them & starting to crumble. I will be keeping the Ferodo's for emergency spares I think as they're to good to throw.
Thanks for all the advice people's :mrgreen:
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682 Posts
There is a socket available too the opposite to an eze-out that needs to be tapped onto the head of the bolt and that grips whats left and just use a ratchet to undo that.
Normally the way is the size you need is one you haven't got though.
Well done for having a go, most people with an ounce of common sence can do brakes but the more technical think it's a job left to the overpriced proffesionals.
Normally the way is the size you need is one you haven't got though.
Well done for having a go, most people with an ounce of common sence can do brakes but the more technical think it's a job left to the overpriced proffesionals.
And he's only got 3 posts! I wish had all the money he has to get all the work done on my car. But as was previously noted doing these things yourself is the best way to learn about your truck. And for the nay sayers, there are mobile mechanics and brake guys that dont mind coming out if you find you have gotten in over your head.And the award for second least helpful post in this thread goes to...
Thats inspiring advice from someone with 3 posts since 2004...guess we'll hear back from you in 2012 firelighta??
Steelo...I was taught how to service my brake calipers by a mechanic, I do all my own stuff such as pads, rubber boots, fitting new pistons etc. Anything outside of what I have been taught gets done by the pro's
.Have a go mate but be shown correctly, after that you'll be confident and you'll save yourself some drinking vouchers.
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