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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, pulling my hair out currently, recently purchased a 2003 zd30 di, has full nads (dawes and needle, catch can, egr block, egt and boost gauges).

I am having big issues with egt temps. I don't think the egt gauge was working correctly from the start and found the probe to be pulled out from the housing (was only getting to around 300degc no matter what load). I have ordered a new sensor but have temporarily repaired the old one and I am getting massive egt temps will hit 400 accelerating around town unless very little throttle is used. underload up hills will climb to 550 really fast and will keep going but i back off and nurse it to get the temps to drop and so i dont go over 550. I dont think the sensor is reading wrong as a temp gun will read the same temp on the exhaust as what the sensor is. It is about 75mm after turbo.

Boost is set at 15psi and the gauge is reading this. I have check for boost leaks - none present and it is not sluggish or blowing smoke.

What could be causing clearly it is over fueling at full throttle to cause the excessive temps but have no idea what is causing it. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Mitch
 

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2003 ZD30 Di Patrol (The rare Gold one)
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If you are sure you don't have any boost leaks then the first thing I would do is clean the MAF with MAF cleaner. You will need a t20 bit to remove it from the holder. Spray it with MAF cleaner. Do not physically touch the hot wire as you will damage it.

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Hey guys, pulling my hair out currently, recently purchased a 2003 zd30 di, has full nads (dawes and needle, catch can, egr block, egt and boost gauges).

I am having big issues with egt temps. I don't think the egt gauge was working correctly from the start and found the probe to be pulled out from the housing (was only getting to around 300degc no matter what load). I have ordered a new sensor but have temporarily repaired the old one and I am getting massive egt temps will hit 400 accelerating around town unless very little throttle is used. underload up hills will climb to 550 really fast and will keep going but i back off and nurse it to get the temps to drop and so i dont go over 550. I dont think the sensor is reading wrong as a temp gun will read the same temp on the exhaust as what the sensor is. It is about 75mm after turbo.

Boost is set at 15psi and the gauge is reading this. I have check for boost leaks - none present and it is not sluggish or blowing smoke.

What could be causing clearly it is over fueling at full throttle to cause the excessive temps but have no idea what is causing it. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Mitch
With EGT sensor located in the dump pipe 50-100mm from the turbo flange then there is nothing wrong with 400c or 550c as long as you don't keep it at 550c all the time. 400c is actually quite an efficient EGT. MIne runs cooler than I would like, I'd be happy with a constant 400c.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Have already cleaned the airflow meter. I have attached a pic of where the probe is located.

The egt temps just climbs so fast under full load. I can get about 10-20sec full throttle up a hill before it hits 550 and it will keep climbing it doesnt stop. Even around town with 3/4 throttle it will clump to over 400 in under 10 sec
 

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What would you like me to say? I'm telling you what is safe for a DI, mine idles at between 150c and 200c depending on the day, it will 100k cruise between 240 and 270c on flat road and will climb rapidly to over 400c with a bit of load and on ocassions will get to 500c when I push it.

If you can keep it under 550c with a bit of throttle manipulation under heavy load you are in the same place as many other DI owners.

If you go to the DI archives and look up 'How to test all MAF's at home' (or do a search on that thread) you can quite easily check what is happening with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry if I came across the wrong way I was just trying to give as much info as I can. I guess I may have misread or misunderstod alot of those old posts and thought my temps were like double everyone else's. In alot of them I see people not being able to go over 450 even at full throttle.

I just saw these temps and got extremely worried. I really appreciate your help and didnt mean to disagree with you or question anything you said. I guess with having the gauge not actually working and then seeing these really quick temp increases made me think something was wrong. Just dont want the old girl to blow up.

Mainly the bit that got me worried was the full throttle temp climb with just how fast it actually was and the fact it didnt sort of steady up around the 500deg mark
 

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Sorry if I came across the wrong way I was just trying to give as much info as I can. I guess I may have misread or misunderstod alot of those old posts and thought my temps were like double everyone else's. In alot of them I see people not being able to go over 450 even at full throttle.

I just saw these temps and got extremely worried. I really appreciate your help and didnt mean to disagree with you or question anything you said. I guess with having the gauge not actually working and then seeing these really quick temp increases made me think something was wrong. Just dont want the old girl to blow up.

Mainly the bit that got me worried was the full throttle temp climb with just how fast it actually was and the fact it didnt sort of steady up around the 500deg mark
Yes they will climb quickly if given the chance, there is a hill near me that I can go up in 4th (manual) because I have enough torque to make it work but EGT will shoot to 500c quickly. this is what an EGT gauge on a DI is all about, knowing when to trail the throttle at the right time.

The higher the boost the lower the EGT is as a rule of thumb, that is one reason we went through development of trickery for MAFv years ago to lift boost without limp, that is now done through remaps, a std turbo can run up to 22psi if you can manage the limp zones, all this helps EGT.

I'm not saying you urgently need to go there just saying this is one way we helped manage ours.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yea fair enough, I knew about the low boost low rpm excessive egt but the bit that got me worried was over 3000 at 15psi and it was climbing really fast. I guess it's all a learning curve. If you reckon that's sweet and I just need to modulate it with the throttle to keep temps at bay then that's what I will do.

I read alot about the jaycar voltage modifier but unfortunately I can get my hands on one. I also read about the hpd maf housing do u think that would he an answer to get the boost up a bit without a tune. I just dont want to be spending to much on this engine as I dont know how much life it's got left and if I would put another zd30in if it let go
 

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Yea fair enough, I knew about the low boost low rpm excessive egt but the bit that got me worried was over 3000 at 15psi and it was climbing really fast. I guess it's all a learning curve. If you reckon that's sweet and I just need to modulate it with the throttle to keep temps at bay then that's what I will do.

I read alot about the jaycar voltage modifier but unfortunately I can get my hands on one. I also read about the hpd maf housing do u think that would he an answer to get the boost up a bit without a tune. I just dont want to be spending to much on this engine as I dont know how much life it's got left and if I would put another zd30in if it let go
JayCar unit no longer available, I built many of them, I'm lead to believe there are alternatives out there but haven't chased them up.
I would not go the HPD MAF housing route, they really are rubbish that are not meant to be used as a stand alone unit and have downsides.
Remap is the best answer when you get the time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
In you honest opinion and I know everyone has different views if money wasnt the issue would you swap a rebuilt zd30 in or would you look down the avenue of a td42. I'm only interested in a diesel so ls is out the window. But I like that fact zds are 4cyl they are cheep rego and not to bad on fuel but I have read pleanty that td42s aren't all the great either
 

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In you honest opinion and I know everyone has different views if money wasnt the issue would you swap a rebuilt zd30 in or would you look down the avenue of a td42. I'm only interested in a diesel so ls is out the window. But I like that fact zds are 4cyl they are cheep rego and not to bad on fuel but I have read pleanty that td42s aren't all the great either
Sorry, been away from anything WiFi for several days, it was heaven ;). I would stay with ZD30.
 

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With mine I recently Tow my 22.5 caravan which is approximately 2.8 tonnes I’m having to watch my gauges mostly when climbing hills I have to make sure I keep the revs up above 2,500 to around 3,000 otherwise it will labour the engine. I can manage the temp climbing around 550 deg in fourth gear. I dare not travel in fifth gear only use it as overdrive ,dead flat road no wind or downhill. Saying that also driving without caravan the temp does rise rapidly say when I’m overtaking or climbing the best advise I can give you is keep the revs up 2,500 min. Any thing under will labour the engine.
 
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