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nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

I need some urgent advice.

I recently purchased a 2006 GU IV 3.0L with 98,000kms on it, which only after 30Kms down the road from picking it up from the dealership, the engine overheated, as it wouldnt change to 4th gear, as if running in limp mode. I topped it up on water and coolant thinking there may have been a leak. However only a further 10Kms down the road it overheated again, this time the oil light came on. I spoke with the dealership, which they sent a tow truck out and picked it up.

The original advice I have been getting from the dealership is that it required a new engine, then obviously due to cost looking into a reco engine and second hand engine, which until this morning he was getting a second hand engine with apparently 70,000 odd kms on it.

I am now being told, that the engine wont start at all now, and the head is only being replaced. My question is; Is this the start of something worse (ie. grenade) or is the head a common issue?

If it is looking towards something worse, should i be backing out of the sale?

Thanks Mat.
 

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"Toxic Personality"
nissan
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was it blowing the water out the exhaust? sounds like it is if its going through water that fast. its stuffed. get ya money back and run unless you paid 12-13k for it, in which case, keep it and do a td42 conversion. because all it is now, is a rolling reg'd shell.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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The Grenade issue doesn't exist with the 2006 DI, but, head issues (although not common) do arise. There are many reasons for this, one being the glowplugs, the timer for glow plugs after startup from cold runs for 5 minutes or until the engine reaches around 75c, if the vehicle has been flogged during that time this appears to lead to cracking around the glowplug hole in the head, all of this is anecdotal evidence from data gathered from owners. Many of us have fitted timers to prevent this.

Another theory is that dirty injectors may cause the spray pattern to hit hot glowplugs leading to the tips falling off and damaging pistons and head. There is documented evidence in pics of tips falling off.

To sum up I wouldn't let them just put a new head on it without seeing the engine and even then that could be dodgy. A second hand engine with 70,000k on it, as long as it was from the same year could work out OK but you are still taking a risk with unknowns, I would argue for a full rebuild if you have the leverage.

You are in an awkward position my friend, not knowing your full situation makes it difficult to fully advise, but always remember you have consumer affairs to fall back on if it gets nasty.

The oil light coming on is a further concern, there may be something else as well that neither of us are aware of at this time.

Get out of the deal if you can. Keep us informed please.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is there any preferred suppliers for a reco engine in the Sydney area? happy to get from interstate if needed...
 

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Get your money back I'd say. If it were me and I just took delivery of a car and broke down I'd take it straight back and ask for my money. I'd also be mighty pissed off!

To me not worth the headache of not having a new (to you) car in being repaired for a month while you stuff about with rental cars and bumming lifts off people. Get the money back or pick another GU from their yard to take home.
 

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Ok this is the dealers obligations in NSW, I assume that the ACT would be similar if not the same.

If the vehicle was displayed with a Form 4 which is the thing they hang off the sun visor with the price, km's etc it will have a statutory warranty. Have a look through your paper work and see what you have. Considering the age and km's of the car (under 10 yrs and less than 160 000km's) it should have been a Form 4. Some commercial vehicles and older high km vehicles can be sold without a statutory warranty.

The statutory warranty requires the dealer to warrant the vehicle for 3 months or 5000km's, whichever occurs first. If a defect arises such as a cracked head they are required to make repairs to the vehicle that are consistent with the age and condition of the vehicle.

So if your vehicle has almost 100K on it and unless the engine has come out of a wrecked mine ute the 70K engine would be considered sufficient for the age and condition of your car if it is at least 2006 or newer.

Like I said this is from NSW, I am not sure if the ACT are different.

Edit: I just checked and the statutory rights in the ACT are the same as NSW.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ManBoy;
The vehicle was bought from a dealership in Sydney and would have came with a Form 4 (I will have to check the documentation at home to confirm). My understanding is the dealership is acting out their responsibilities in replacing the cracked head/gasket.

On this I don't think I'm going to have much of a leg to stand on if it went to the Department of Fair Trading. However as you said the vehicle is covered for 3 months or 5000km's. If I was to take the vehicle to my trusted diesel mechanical in Canberra straight away, I could get them to list the issues, if there are any at the time. These issues (being that they are broken and not warn down from use), should therefore fall under the 3 months or 5000km's. Is that right?

Is there any known cases of a cracked head, resulting in a grenade in a GU, specifically a GU IV?

Jacket_1985;
Unfortunately I've just sold the shorty to buy more of a tourer, with this vehicle being the base project to start with.
 

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"Toxic Personality"
nissan
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Is there any known cases of a cracked head, resulting in a grenade in a GU, specifically a GU IV?.
Yep. i took this photo with my camera, i took it myself, and its of my own car, that i still own.... this is not a 'he said', or 'my mate' report.....

my zd30 also had a cracked head.

my guiv is a 2005. low kays like yours. with no sign of abuse.
 

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With the car being so newly purchased I do believe there is a clause in your purchase agreement allowing you to get a refund if your not happy with you purchase in the 1st 48hrs.

I'm no expert and I've never had to use the clause but I'd ring Fair Trading to check it out. Get your money back and buy a Toyota

EDIT : I had a quick look through here

http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/ftw/Consumers/Motor_vehicles.page?

But I can't find any mention of the money back thing. Might be best to give them a ring
 

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I agree with those who said to get your money back.

Dont let the dealer pull the wool over your eyes.

i would not trust the car one bit having the dealer repair it. They are going to do it as cheaply as they can, as they are now officially are in the poo territory with making money on the car. Profit gone, bye bye.

They are going to do the cheapest possible fix. No ifs, buts or maybes, that is what they will do.

If you end up with a second hand motor, how do you know its any good ?

If they put on a new head, how do you know the bottom end is in good nick ?

Run far far away.

If i was the dealer, i reckon id be happy to give you your money back, and flog the car off for what they paid for it to an auction or something. Less out of pocket.
 

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x eleventy billion, money back. I wouldn't trust them fixing it. Chances are they'll reuse the existing glow plugs, pistons, etc.
 

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The dealer has no obligation to buy the vehicle back or to refund you the purchase price regardless whether or not it crapped itself on the way home or 2 and half months and 4999km's after delivery. The only chance of getting the money back is if you can reasonably prove that the vehicle was not represented accurately and that the dealer was less then honest with the vehicles history. Remember though the dealer was not the previous owner they are a dealer so it would be hard to prove any wrong doing on behalf of the dealer.

The dealer is within their rights to use second hand parts as long as they are of a standard consistent with the age and condition of the vehicle. If you insist on new parts you may need to agree to pay the difference.

I agree that the dealer will try and get out of it as cheap as possible and will source as few parts as they can as cheaply as they can so I would be scrutinising them very closely. If you take someone into the dealer who knows what they're talking about and basically pressure the dealer into doing the job right it would probably help if they think otherwise you'll just be back and they'll need to do rework.

You can contact fair trading but they are an arbitrator more than anything and will try to negotiate a mutual agreement between both parties. They don't commonly boss businesses around but they will pressure them to do the right thing if they need to.

I did have a mate who was in a similar situation when he bought a diesel Hilux that blew up shortly after he got it. The dealer had the engine rebuilt using second hand parts and basically dodged the thing up. I ended up in a tribunal between him and the dealer through fair trading after it blew up a second time within a week. Once the arbitrator saw the condition of the "new" big end and main bearings the dealer was ordered to refund him the purchase price of the car. I think this case was more the exception than the norm and the dealer in question wasn't a major new car type dealer either.

You could take the car to your trusted workshop and get a mechanical inspection if you like but remember there is only so much they will be able to check for. Apart from a compression test it is hard to check the condition of the internal components of an engine.
 

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Mate please I went through almost the exact same situation... And I'm still paying for it nearly 2 years later..


Get your money back and run... Don't let the dealership talk you into anything get your money and find another car...
 

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Rogue
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The dealer has no obligation to buy the vehicle back or to refund you the purchase price regardless whether or not it crapped itself on the way home or 2 and half months and 4999km's after delivery. The only chance of getting the money back is if you can reasonably prove that the vehicle was not represented accurately and that the dealer was less then honest with the vehicles history. Remember though the dealer was not the previous owner they are a dealer so it would be hard to prove any wrong doing on behalf of the dealer.

The dealer is within their rights to use second hand parts as long as they are of a standard consistent with the age and condition of the vehicle. If you insist on new parts you may need to agree to pay the difference.

I agree that the dealer will try and get out of it as cheap as possible and will source as few parts as they can as cheaply as they can so I would be scrutinising them very closely. If you take someone into the dealer who knows what they're talking about and basically pressure the dealer into doing the job right it would probably help if they think otherwise you'll just be back and they'll need to do rework.

You can contact fair trading but they are an arbitrator more than anything and will try to negotiate a mutual agreement between both parties. They don't commonly boss businesses around but they will pressure them to do the right thing if they need to.

I did have a mate who was in a similar situation when he bought a diesel Hilux that blew up shortly after he got it. The dealer had the engine rebuilt using second hand parts and basically dodged the thing up. I ended up in a tribunal between him and the dealer through fair trading after it blew up a second time within a week. Once the arbitrator saw the condition of the "new" big end and main bearings the dealer was ordered to refund him the purchase price of the car. I think this case was more the exception than the norm and the dealer in question wasn't a major new car type dealer either.

You could take the car to your trusted workshop and get a mechanical inspection if you like but remember there is only so much they will be able to check for. Apart from a compression test it is hard to check the condition of the internal components of an engine.
Does NSW have cool off periods or warranty periods on dealer cars?
 

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Does NSW have cool off periods or warranty periods on dealer cars?
Their warranty obligations are as I stated above and yes there is a cooling off period only if the dealer provides finance for the purchase or provides documentation to provide finance. The cooling off period ends at the close of business the day after the vehicle purchase was made. The cooling off period is there for people who impulse buy and find they have over committed through pressure from the dealer, not because you changed your mind and want to buy something else.
 
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