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Discussion Starter #1
So I am about to put in a dual battery to power the fridge and also transfer all the other Auxilliary mods to the dual battery.

Dual battery is yellowtop Optima 55Ah /750CCA

The front of the Patrol will have the following with amps pulling

  1. [1] 3 x 42W LED lights = 10.5A wired with relay/and blade fuse currently
    [2] UHF/VHF radio rated at 12A at max transmission power
    [3] 4 channel Amplifier output 60W per channel at 4 ohms = 20A at full volume

Total in Front is 42.5A

The back of the patrol will have the following:

  • [1] Rear work light 1 X 42W LED relayed = 3.5A
    [2] Fridge = 3.3A max, although ARB rate at 7.5A on their manual???
    [3] Rear Fog lamps using incandescent 21W bulbs on roof rack (2x21W) /12 = 3.5A
    [4] additional 10 Amps for future use.

Total at the back is 20.3 A
Total Amps if all is on at once is 42.5 +20.3 = 62.8A
(but all on at once is unlikely)

I am going to wire the auxiliary main feed with a 60 A circuit breaker, which will feed the front of the patrol accessories to a fused distribution block and take a large enough cable to the back and connect to a 20A circuit breaker and again into a fused distribution block. To powe the rear fog/work lights and fridge.

Please let me know if the above is measured correctly, I still have not figured out the gauge of cable for everything, but will do once I have an idea on what is available locally in smaller lenghts, rather than whole rolls of cable.
 

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I would use a 50a circuit breaker in the rear, reason being you may pull a fair bit of current if you re stopped for a few days and your aux battery is low. The circuit breaker is just there to guard against short circuits.
 

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at the end of the day you need a circuit breaker big enough to not trip running your accessories but small enough to protect your cable running to the axillary fuse panel, In the AC world we have cable selection information and tables to reference back to on how much current a certain cable can carry over what distance. Don't know if there is info like this available for automotive wiring.

personally I would always select cable with much more carrying capacity then what you need, for the sake of a few $$$ per meter and select your circuit breaker or fuse with a few amps to spare
 

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Firstly, is that battery deep cycle as it seems to have low Ah rating (55)?
Secondly wiring front lights/light bars to aux battery is not common and is better to be on starting battery IMHO.

I'd use aux/secondary battery (deep cycle) for fridge duties and camp/work/ lights etc.

Amplifier and light bars + fog lamps on main battery (why would you power on rear fog lamps and front light bars when stationary/engine off scenario is beyond me) unless you're one of those inconsiderate persons to go nature and bother animals and rest of the country side with loud doof doof music and lights show....:rolleyes: in that case go secondary battery.

Wire from aux battery to rear fuse panel should be largest gauge you can afford as a minimum 8 mm for fridge and lights duties fuse size 20A should be enough. Personally I'd go for 25 mm cable as a minimum for future expansions and to reduce voltage drop over the distance.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #6
2nd battery is deep cycle yellow top, we have limitations on what we can get here in terms of modifications, hence using something that has been available for more than 10 years.

I see your point on fog and led bar being fired by the starter, but will still put the fog on the aux, just to reduce wiring to rear, will use large cable to rear for safety and future use. Light bar, and stereo will be starter for now, as used rarely and very short period only. All else will be aux battery: uhf, fridge, work light, fogs and some USB charging points.
 
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