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Was known as JT54_Y61 GU IV 08CRD Wag ST
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TBH I don't know how on earth you guys got in there without pulling the engine harness out. I'm not a friggin contortionist...
and we spliced and soldered tails in place haha _perseverance.
Do like your work though..

With your switch (BT activator) integrated into the new box is pretty flash.
For easy access, I brought the BT wires out and fitted switch below bonnet release latch where needle valve for manual boost control use to reside and also placed a 12V LED adjacent to indicate MB pwr ON (functional mode at a glance).
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With your switch (BT activator) integrated into the new box is pretty flash.
For easy access, I brought the BT wires out and fitted switch below bonnet release latch where needle valve for manual boost control use to reside and also placed a 12V LED adjacent to indicate MB pwr ON (functional mode at a glance).
That is something in the back of my mind that bothers me a little. The switch will be tucked away and it won't be easy to accidentally switch it ON, but it won't be easy to see if it's ON or OFF either. I'll see how I go. Can always add an LED somewhere later.
 

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@Phdv61 mentioned early on that 'power suck by the genuine solenoid is less than 1amp as it is not always powered (active)."

Recall Phil saying that 0.75mm wire for the hook up _ I used some 600V / 20AWG from Jaycar seemed durable enough.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
I wired my Magic box with 0.75mm2 I had in the drawer.
The power supply fuse provided is 2 amp anyway, so max power that could be dissipated on this line could not exceed 2 amp x 14,5V = 29W in case of any short-circuit somewhere before the fuse blows-up.
An up to 5m long 0.75mm2 wire is fine. Up to 3m in 0.5mm2 does the job too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #286 ·
The jumper is fine when in the set-up phase. that way you do not forget to switch BT on or off.
When MB is tuned to your satisfaction, you'd better install a switch. You can then only switch BT "on" if and when you need to access any of the MB data.
I drive my Patrol with BT off all the time. And MB does its job in the background, like my ECU does.
 

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I wired my Magic box with 0.75mm2 I had in the drawer.
The power supply fuse provided is 2 amp anyway, so max power that could be dissipated on this line could not exceed 2 amp x 14,5V = 29W in case of any short-circuit somewhere before the fuse blows-up.
An up to 5m long 0.75mm2 wire is fine. Up to 3m in 0.5mm2 does the job too.
I found a 2m wire in my stash that already has one correct terminal for the VACSOL connector on it. It's 0.5mm2 and I need about 1.75m of it, so I think that'll do just fine. Now I'm on the hunt for another one. Let's see if I can get that lucky twice. :ROFLMAO:

Hey Phil, do you perhaps have any details on the VACSOL connector you supplied with the MB? I know it's a Yazaki connector but I'm trying to find out if there is a mating part for it. I'd like to make up a little adaptor plug with the resistor that I can plug into the original harness to fool the ECU into thinking the VACSOL is still connected.

Looking for the mating part for this:
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OK so it's pretty much done.
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All I still need to do is add a power supply, but I'm thinking I'll have to reinstall the engine harness and have the MB in position to add this. I moved both 12V AUX sockets on the lower centre section to permanent 12V from the AUX battery so I'm going to try to use one of the original socket connectors for an IGN power source.

I also added a new harness for the VACSOL using the plug @Phdv61 supplied.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Grille Automotive design

The brown connector (middle one) is the original connector. After a bit of searching I managed to find a Yazaki part number for this and a mating part, but it seems like both are discontinued and I can't find even a Chinese copy online.

However, in my research I established that there is a Sumitomo connector range that uses a virtually identical terminal set and I found a 2-pin male/female set of these on Aliexpress. I ordered these and they'll supposedly arrive late November, although it seems like AusPost delivery times these days are inversely proportional to the size of their executives' bonuses, so I'm not holding my breath.
Liquid Automotive lighting Fluid Gesture Plastic bottle

Plan is to remove the original brown female connector housing and replace it with the new Sumitomo one (using the original Yazaki female terminals) and then adding the dummy resistor to the new male connector and terminals. So if I ever need to reconnect the VACSOL to the ECU, I simply unplug the male Sumitomo connector from the original harness and plug the harness back into the VACSOL.

I know, pictures say more than words... I'll update again once the connectors arrive.
 

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Plan is to remove the original brown female connector housing and replace it with the new Sumitomo one (using the original Yazaki female terminals) and then adding the dummy resistor to the new male connector and terminals. So if I ever need to reconnect the VACSOL to the ECU, I simply unplug the male Sumitomo connector from the original harness and plug the harness back into the VACSOL.
That's exactly what I wanted to do mate, to have a mating connector with the resistor in it, but I don't seem to have the same ability to find connectors as you 😉

Would you kindly share the link to the connector you have bought. I'd really like to do the same.....

Nice work on the loom👍
 
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That's exactly what I wanted to do mate, to have a mating connector with the resistor in it, but I don't seem to have the same ability to find connectors as you 😉

Would you kindly share the link to the connector you have bought. I'd really like to do the same.....

Nice work on the loom👍
No worries, Trev. Here's the link:
 

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Connectors arrived today. Wasn't expecting them for at least another couple of weeks!

De-pinned the original VACSOL connector and tried the pins the new housing. Looks like it's going to work. :)

Now I just need to get to Jaycar to get the resistors.

Also, got the MB connected via bluetooth to my desktop PC. I was going to use an old laptop I had laying around for running in the car, but it's a 32-bit machine and the MB software doesn't run on it. Anyways, I'll double-cross that bridge when I get to it. Next step is the VACSOL resistor and putting the dash back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #292 · (Edited)
Hi Andrie,
What you can do is make use of the Android App on a smartphone, once everything else is set as you wish with your desktop.
The app allows to set the turbo map. all other parameters can stay as they have been set in the meantime ( and normally do not need to be modified).
I will send you a 32 bits version of the software asap.
 

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Hi Andrie,
What you can do is make use of the Android App on a smartphone, once everything else is set as you wish with your desktop.
The app allows to set the turbo map. all other parameters can stay as they have been set in the meantime ( and normally do not need to be modified).
I will send you a 32 bits version of the software asap.
All good, Phil!

There's no rush. This week is going to be a nightmare for me workwise, so I won't be able to do any work on the car before the weekend, and even then I sill have to put the whole interior back in. At best I'm probably still a good 2 to 3 weeks away from actually driving it. In all honesty, I'll probably only get any real testing done over XMas when I have a couple of weeks off.

I'm taking my time with this. ;)

My desktop PC is close to the garage, so I should be able to connect via BT with the unit in the car. I also plan on loading the Android app on my head unit, once that is back in with the dash.

As a last resort, I can use my daughter's MacBook if I really have to, so I have plenty back up plans. :geek:

Relax! Enjoy your time in Portugal.
 

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if you use a macbook, you’ll need the Mac-Os version. I have it on my own Mac. so it will be easy.
You sent me a link to download the Mac version a while ago and I downloaded it, so I've got it thx. ;) The problem will be prying the MacBook from my 14-year old daughter's hands to use it "to fix the Patrol" o_O She might have a nervous breakdown.
 

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Connectors arrived today. Wasn't expecting them for at least another couple of weeks!

De-pinned the original VACSOL connector and tried the pins the new housing. Looks like it's going to work. :)

Now I just need to get to Jaycar to get the resistors.

Also, got the MB connected via bluetooth to my desktop PC. I was going to use an old laptop I had laying around for running in the car, but it's a 32-bit machine and the MB software doesn't run on it. Anyways, I'll double-cross that bridge when I get to it. Next step is the VACSOL resistor and putting the dash back in.
What are you using the resistors for? Sorry I haven't been really following along with brain fully engaged.

And you have been pulling the dash out, that sounds a little bit too familiar to my last few months worth of weekends. I decided to re wire all my accessories and put all fuses and relays into the blank spots in the factory relay box and fuse box. How hard could it be to utilise the empty slots. Well ahggggg a lot harder and more time consuming than I expected. Just a few last things to finish under the bonnet and I should be able to put the leads back on the battery and start her up to test everything .

I did manage to connect into the ECU harness for TPS signal, MAF and Rpm I already had tapped into for a previous UAFC device. But I decided not to connect the Magic Box yet until I have double checked all other electrics are working properly as I have done so many wiring and switch changes, I wanted to be sure/safe.


@Phdv61
Phil, I also have an old 32 Bit laptop that runs Windows 8, so I think that I will try connection via Android with my phone instead of the laptop.
Is there anything that I need a laptop for that I can not set up with the Android version?
 

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What are you using the resistors for?
Only CRD requires the resistor as a load across stock vacsol connector to keep ECM happy when not plugged into vacsol. As you know DI (ECU) does not care if vacsol is not electrically connected (eg: manual boost control).

MB (EV+/-) is connected to vacsol for control of VNT vane aperture changes (pwm%).

I have two vac solenoids (both connected "ECM + MB" so no resistor required _ CRD spare.

Good to hear U bought a MB Geordie.
 

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[QUOTE="geordie4x4, post: 7085105,
Phil, I also have an old 32 Bit laptop that runs Windows 8, so I think that I will try connection via Android with my phone instead of the laptop.
Is there anything that I need a laptop for that I can not set up with the Android version?[/QUOTE]





Geordie, you'll need a laptop to 'play back' the files you have recorded from your MB. There is no other way of scrutinizing the recorded data unfortunately.

@andreik and Geordie - TBH I would recommend you have a laptop which is easily accessible for setting up your MB. The amount of time you are likely to invest in the setting up process will be substantial because we all start at the same spot.......inexperienced! It takes time to understand how it works and responds, even just reading the data and interactive graphing capabilities Phil has built into the software. Settings can be adjusted via the android app but everything is far easier from a laptop.

Just my oppinion though

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #300 · (Edited)
I concur. A laptop has a larger screen, and provides access to all settings on one hand, but also to all replay capabilities of the software, where you can analyse the effect of your changes when tuning/modifying your 'turbo map'.
The Android app only allows to modify the turbo MAP at the moment, not the other parameters, which, in principle, don't need to be changed once set.
I would prefer to keep it that way as inexperienced guys could make mistakes when setting other parameters with their phone, and get rapidly lost ( talk to John...).
That said, if you all think it would be beneficial to be able to set all parameters through the app, and maybe replay files too, I can work on upgrading the app to allow this.
It might take some time though.

I have sent a 32 bits windows generated with a Mac to @trev zd30 but it might not work as there is a bug with the java machine handling of the serial port. It will need me to be back home and the use of a windows PC I am afraid.
 
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