[Phdv61]

Hi Josh,

the latest Android app is called AUTORADIO_PSI.apk, dated september 2021. If you don't have it, I can provide you with a download link. MB setting sw and the replay ones are from May-June last year.

No issue has been reported on any of these, so I have kept them "as is" and continue to use them myself when needed ( But in their mbar version, in particular to replay recorded files some of you send me from time to time to get some advice). All this is very time consuming as you may imagine.

All what I did is to rebuild a windows 32bits version for someone who asked for it, and a java embeded version for the setting sw under Mac-OS to overcome a grey screen issue on Monterey, but with no joy so far.

The MB firmware is very stable. During my recent trip to Australia, I upgraded the first two MB delivered to the same firmware version everyone else runs today.

That said, always happy to hear from anybody about improvements they could think of, providing it would only affect the apps, and not the MB firmware, even if a firmware upgrade would also be possible as the micro-controller is on socket.

 

[Phdv61]

Why is it called 'Autoradio' ?
Just because if you have an Android radio in your car, and if you radio set allows you to connect to (pair it with) MB by bluetooth ( not all radios allow this kind of 'pairing'), you should be able to install the MB android app on your radio and run the app from it.

 

[Phdv61]

In fact, there is one area I had a look at, which is how to make use of low energy BT module (BLE) and reduce the heat within the MB when BT is in use. But apparently, at the moment, these modules have several limitations preventing their use for MB.

It reminds me to tell all of you again (education is ... repetition), that as soon as your turbo map is set, you should switch BT off to avoid any "cooking" of your MB hardware.

MB is a "set and forget" device.

 

[Phdv61]

Hi all,
I always took for granted the limp mode couples of values, namely
MAF voltage above 3.55V below 2000 RPM
MAF voltage above 3,88V below 2500 RPM
MAF voltage above 3.98V below 3000 RPM
MAF voltage above 4.18V below 3500 RPM

2 weeks ago, I thought to myself that it was a bit strange that engineers would set thresholds as accurately as 3.88V, 3.98V or 3.18V.

Therefore, I decided to set my own magic box 'limp avoidance' values at :

• 3.55 V 2000 RPM ( I can confirm the value as, if I increase the 3.55V, I get limp when under load climbing in 5th).
• 3.90 V 2500 RPM
• 4.00 V 3000 RPM
• 4.20 V 3500 RPM

with the same 4000ms delay.

And so far, I haven't seen any limp occurance. I'll keep you further informed if need be.

 

[J0SHMAN]

Hi all,
I always took for granted the limp mode couples of values, namely
MAF voltage above 3.55V below 2000 RPM
MAF voltage above 3,88V below 2500 RPM
MAF voltage above 3.98V below 3000 RPM
MAF voltage above 4.18V below 3500 RPM

2 weeks ago, I thought to myself that it was a bit strange that engineers would set thresholds as accurately as 3.88V, 3.98V or 3.18V.

Therefore, I decided to set my own magic box 'limp avoidance' values at :

• 3.55 V 2000 RPM ( I can confirm the value as, if I increase the 3.55V, I get limp when under load climbing in 5th).
• 3.90 V 2500 RPM
• 4.00 V 3000 RPM
• 4.20 V 3500 RPM

with the same 4000ms delay.

And so far, I haven't seen any limp occurance. I'll keep you further informed if need be.

Thanks for the update Phil. I've finally got aorund to reconnecting my MAFout and have set my limp delay to the maximum of 4000ms. Unfortunatley i haven't had an opportunity to give it a test on any hills or hard driving yet. I'll make these small adjustments to my MB in preparation for when i get the opportunity.

 

[stricky60]

Joining in on this thread as I have just got a MB from Jake after the loss of his Patrol in the floods. I am starting a long way behind everyone, currently digesting the MB booklet.

Cheers
Russell

 

[Bidja]

@stricky60 Russell, I just replied to your PM. Decided also to post reply here as it may help others over time. Better place for ongoing communication.

Phil wanted to change his actuator / stop screw on VNT housing, so he could close VNT vanes more "increased early PWM%" on MB for higher elevation driving (like 3000m). He bought new units as to eliminate any aging factors. Retains his old Actuator and Vacsol as stock reference.

Mine is a bit different as I used the MB to set my actuator up by adjusting the vane limit stop screw for more vane closure from pwm 43% to 51% (Used MB monitoring capability to achieve this). My Procharge stage 3 turbo was not set up correctly when I bought it but now it is good (a lot of time and effort).

CRD needs an Vacsol or similar (300 ohm resistor) connected to keep ECM/ecu happy and also need a second one connected to MB. DI does not care if vacsol is not connected to ECU therefore only one Vacsol is required to connect to MB.

I thinks you have a new Vacsol supplied with MB from Jake (Use it). Keep yours current as a spare and compare operation later on, if U still have it.

 

[geeyoutoo]

Hi all,
I always took for granted the limp mode couples of values, namely
MAF voltage above 3.55V below 2000 RPM
MAF voltage above 3,88V below 2500 RPM
MAF voltage above 3.98V below 3000 RPM
MAF voltage above 4.18V below 3500 RPM

2 weeks ago, I thought to myself that it was a bit strange that engineers would set thresholds as accurately as 3.88V, 3.98V or 3.18V.

Therefore, I decided to set my own magic box 'limp avoidance' values at :

• 3.55 V 2000 RPM ( I can confirm the value as, if I increase the 3.55V, I get limp when under load climbing in 5th).
• 3.90 V 2500 RPM
• 4.00 V 3000 RPM
• 4.20 V 3500 RPM

with the same 4000ms delay.

And so far, I haven't seen any limp occurance. I'll keep you further informed if need be.

Just a jote on the MAFv limp stages you posted at the beggining of your post. As you would know those limp values were logged by me many years ago, in conversations with yourself you would also know that I have never experienced the under 2000rpm 3.55v limp zone, there is a possible explanation for this if it does exist and that is if you accelerate through a limp zone quickly it doesn't activate, hence overtaking up a hill in a high gear being the epitome of the dreaded limp zone
How those limp zones were arrived at was with my granddaughter sitting in the passenger seat with a notebook then me telling her voltages to write down when limp occured in its various positions as they showed on my ECUTalk which sits right in front of me on the steering column, this was done many times over to prove they were repeatable.

 

[Phdv61]

Absolutely. You have approx 4 seconds before the ECM cuts fueling, and it was certainly not easy to get an accurate measurement when watching a voltmeter on your knees... MB allows a digital and accurate setting of both the voltage itself and the time you have before your ECM enters limp. In between, it's all benefit to have a high MAF voltage. And much better than "clamping".

On a long climb, in 5th, just below 2000RPM, I can easily get this 3.55V limp mode with MB managing my turbo vanes. I am not surprised that hardly anyone sees this 3.55V limp mode, as usually, you have much less air getting through with a full stock Patrol (they usually get around 3.2V), and with manual boost control even worst as the turbo vanes are kept far too closed.

More air seen by the ECM down low attracts de facto more fueling, and more torque. It is just what I have noticed myself and been saying for quite a long time now. Only MAF voltage matters.

 

[Phdv61]

@stricky60,
there is no need to replace your Solenoid, nor your actuator.
MB can adapt to any third party's, should any of these element fails. I explain in the setting and operation doc that I am using a Pierburg solenoid ($50) and a Melett actuator ($50). My Nissan (Denso) Solenoid and actuator (22 years old) were still working, but are now sitting in a drawer as "spares".

 

[stricky60]

Now that I have got the Bluetooth working it is time to look at connecting the wiring. I was wondering what is the best way to tap into the wires, soldering or connectors. Looking at using Jaycar connector like this -

Not sure if soldering would give a more reliable connection give the wires I need to tap into.

Also what sort of wire can I use? I would imagine it is relatively low Amps.

 

[Phdv61]

to use wago for tapping you will need enough space and probably to cut wires and three ways wagos. Soldering is my preferred solution , but I used two ways Wago for MAF.
For Ts, it is easier and takes less space to strip a bit the wire and solder + isolation.
On my Di, with the lack of space, I used a mix of both.
I used 0,75mm2 silicon covered wires but 0.5 is fine too.

 

[stricky60]

Thanks, Did you consider using these -

Or is there not enough space?

 

[J0SHMAN]

Hey Stricky, those wago carriers take quite a bit of room, I've used some for power distro in my rig. The ECU loom is quite fiddly to get to, but not impossible, and soldering the MB wires in really is the best way to connect it.

 

[stricky60]

Sorry to ask so many questions but I am not very technically minded. For this bit on my 2004 DI engine -

Do I reuse the Red/Green wire in the new connector and simply run the Red/Blue (looks Red/Black to me) to Magic Box. Not sure where to connect to the MB (EV-???)

 

[Phdv61]

No worries.
Just unplug your solenoid connector and isolate it with isolation tape.
You need to get two new wires from MB to your Solenoid.

Easiest is to go through where the cable to open the bonnet goes.
you can use a rigid electric cable 1,5mm2 to go through the rubber from the cabin, and grab it from under the bonnet on the other side.Attach your two new wires to this electric cable, and just pull.

These two new wires have then to be terminated with the plug provided, which is identical to the stock one.
And they are to be connected to EV+ EV- of MB. This is how MB controls the solenoid.
rgds
Phil.

 

[stricky60]

Thanks, Using the current colours of Red/Green & Red/Blue which one connects to EV-

 

[Phdv61]

Simple & Easy.
EV+ (or SV+) is the pin with a permanent +12V (with IGNITION ON).

on a Di
Green/RED is +12V (EV+)
Red/BLACK is the intermittent grounding for pwm, EV-

on a CRD
White is +12V (may vary depending upon the built year ?)
Red/BLACK is the intermittent grounding for pwm, EV-

and ... you find it in the MB manual.

 

[stricky60]

Excellent, Thanks

 

[stricky60]

Can I please confirm I have identified the correct wires to cut into. Thanks