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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I have a check engine light on my patrol (DI with VP44 pump, 2003, manual). When I read out teh fault code it's a 0705 code --> pump ECU.
  • I can start the car and it drives OK below 3000RPM, but it clearly looses power above above about 2500RPM.
  • I can clear the code and when it's cleared the car drives noticeably better (more power).
  • The car was standing for over a year and was driving fine until I parked it, meaning that the code popped up first thing when starting it after over a year.
  • First I thought it's bad fuel (there was about quarter of a tank left); I topped the tank up but the code reappears.
  • I sometimes seem to be able to depress the fuel priming pump (on top of the fuel filter) about 2-3 times before it becomes hard.
My feeling is that the ECU isn't shot (since I can drive the car), but that there is some other issue going on. I ordered a new fuel filter and will replace that, but any other ideas?

Thanks for your help,
Sascha
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Hi,
I have a check engine light on my patrol (DI with VP44 pump, 2003, manual). When I read out teh fault code it's a 0705 code --> pump ECU.
  • I can start the car and it drives OK below 3000RPM, but it clearly looses power above above about 2500RPM.
  • I can clear the code and when it's cleared the car drives noticeably better (more power).
  • The car was standing for over a year and was driving fine until I parked it, meaning that the code popped up first thing when starting it after over a year.
  • First I thought it's bad fuel (there was about quarter of a tank left); I topped the tank up but the code reappears.
  • I sometimes seem to be able to depress the fuel priming pump (on top of the fuel filter) about 2-3 times before it becomes hard.
My feeling is that the ECU isn't shot (since I can drive the car), but that there is some other issue going on. I ordered a new fuel filter and will replace that, but any other ideas?

Thanks for your help,
Sascha
Sounds to me likexair in the system, primer should go hard in 1-2 pumps, you can fit a length of clear fuel hose between filter outlet and the pump inlet banjo, start her up and look for air bubbles. False codes can occur for a few reasons, rule out air first.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A little update:
  • I installed a clear hose from the filter to the injection pump (IP) inlet --> no air in the line
  • My idle is around 500 rpm as indicated in the dashboard (seems a bit too low); but it reacts fine on the "engine heater" switch or if I turn the AC on
  • Error code reappears immediately after clearing it (meaning: the check engine light stays on as soon as I start the car); it seems like the car doesn't even need to run for the ECU to register the error code
  • After letting the car stand for a few weeks the error code mysteriously disappeared (without any doing from my side); RPMs still low; however another problem appeared --> I have an intermitted throttle issue, where the car simply does not accept any throttle input whatsoever (it simply idles). I had this issue eralier on (a year back; had posted about this separately) and have changed my throttle position sensor (TPS); cleaned some ground contacts etc and it eventually went away. I begin to suspect that both issues (IP control unit error and no throttle response) are probably interlinked and that the IP control unit is somehow shot. Any thoughts?
  • I ordered and ECU talk unit and will read out the ICV% and the TPS signal as soon as I can
I would really appreciate if somebody has any ideas as to what is going on here...
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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What error code do you have? 500rpm, whoa, something weird going on here, is that accurate? You said it responds to heater switch, that should send idle to 1200/1250rpm.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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If I remember well, in idle mode, it is the electronics of the IP which controls fueling/timing to get the 750 RPM. Not the ECU.
It is different with the Heat button, as that one is regulated by the ECU ( and it should read 1200RPM).

0705 is an error code reported from the IP electronics to the ECU indicating a problem with the IP electronic board.

possible explanation :
There is a sensor inside the IP which indicates the 'local' RPM information. If there is a discrepancy between that sensor and the Crank Position Sensor which is on the motor, you get an error.

521353


Check you have no problem with the protusions which are used by the sensor to provide the ECU with the RPM.
You can get access to the signal and check its frequency with an oscilloscope at the input of the ECU.

at idle 750 RPM = 750/60 = 12,5 Hz x 4 = 50Hz, frequency of the pulse signal you get off the sensor.

ECU talk will provide you with the pump RPM AND the motor RPM, so you can check they provide the same result.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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in that case, in both cases, it is the ECU which regulates the RPM by sending the right fueling and timing control orders to the pump. But I am 100% sure there is also a « low idle« message being sent by the ECU to the IP as described in the VP44 technical manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the good comments.
  • yes the idle goes to around 1200 when flipping the heater switch
  • I will check the marks used by the crank position sensor; I don#t have an oscilloscope so I won't be able to check the signal
I guess I should just wait for the ECU talk to arrive (I've been waiting for 10 weeks now for the package to arrive....sent by ship instead of air due to COVID) and see what the values (also for the TPS) are.
 

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Do a throttle position sensor reset, warm it up and then let it idle for 10 minutes. Not related to the 0705 code but may solve some issues.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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Thanks for the good comments.
  • yes the idle goes to around 1200 when flipping the heater switch
  • I will check the marks used by the crank position sensor; I don#t have an oscilloscope so I won't be able to check the signal
I guess I should just wait for the ECU talk to arrive (I've been waiting for 10 weeks now for the package to arrive....sent by ship instead of air due to COVID) and see what the values (also for the TPS) are.
If the RPM is at 1200 with the Heat Switch 'on', most probably the sensor is fine. It cannot work at 1200 and not at 750. I doubt the Patrol can have a proper idle at 500 RPM. How does the motor sound when you are in Neutral/idle?
ECUtalk data will be of great support.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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also, check all your vacuum hoses (don't forget the tiny ones which can only be accessed by going below the front of the car, and the ones connected to the two solenoids which are below the IC as indicated on the schematics attached). Check the hoses which go to the solenoids and folllowing actuators :
  • air intake control valve
  • swirl control
if you RGR is not blocked, and your swirl control does not work, burnt gaz and fresh air are not proprely mixed and this reults in an instable idle.

if the intake air valve does not work properly, you do not have the right quantity of air coming in.
And if on top, you loose vacuum in the vacuum circuit, you loose turbo efficiency / power.
Worth having a look at all these components.

521379
 

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I posted about a similiar problem i had a while back like this, my Patrol would not rev past 2000rpms it turned out my coolant temp sensor was bad and engine timing was out a tooth!
 
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Absolutely. Another ^possible cause ( there are many !).
If the coolant temp sensor indicates too hot a temperature to ECU ( i.e it does not work anymore properly ), ECU will reduce fuel injection to protect your motor.
 

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Rare to have both issues at the same time i know but it was actually the wiring going to my temp sensor that was bad and they put in a new sensor and spotted the dodgey wiring after lol!!

The timing thing was an unlucky one because my first Injector pump change was a success but when i went to do the second swap to put in my new injector pump in order to sell my other Patrol (I had to swap both pumps again in both Patrols) but this time i made a mistake,i cranked over the engine very low on oil with timing case etc off just to see how all was turning and i first turned a few times by hand without glowplugs to see was it nice and smooth...this was a mistake on my part because once i used the starter to turn it over it slipped out of timing because the timing chain tensioner had no oil...... a mistake very easy to make but a steep learning curve for me and lucky no other damage because the Patrol wasn't running until i had the oil topped up,like i say i was just cranking off the starter without glowplugs before i got it running.
In fact to add to this if you turn over a freshly timed up ZD30 engine by hand via the crank pulley you can put it out of timing if you are unlucky because the oil pressure may not be built up in engine to tension the chain!
 

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In fact to add to this if you turn over a freshly timed up ZD30 engine by hand via the crank pulley you can put it out of timing if you are unlucky because the oil pressure may not be built up in engine to tension the chain!
That should not happen if the tensioner has been installed correctly,
 

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This problem looks very similar to what i had returning from a long non stop drive from melbourne to gold coast, escaping the covid shutdown in April. One stop at Blayney overnite
then on home to gold coast via Goondawindi /stanthorpe.
Engine light comes on loss of power on hills (towing camper trailer 2ton)
Problem would feel like loss of gear change back to 3rd. Throttle not in sync with auto trans changes.
Thought it was trans fault but after i slowly made it home left the troll parked for 2 weeks or so, took it for a run without trailer on No loss of power, gear changes good. No check engine light came on.
Did a code check and 703 and 705
came up. Now occasionally when i start up cold in morning it fires up then stops as though air in system.all ok.
I notice a clicking sound from my module on IP pump. Turn off key and restart, sound not there starts and runs good. Any one had this sympton
 

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you get 0703 and 0705 codes when there are communication problems between your ECU and the electronic board which sits on top of the IP. Start first with checking the cabling, the connectors, and the earthing. An intermittent problem can also come from bad soldering inside the electronic module of the pump itself (heat / cold having an effect on IP fault is a sign). The power transistor which controls the fueling solenoid is known to sometimes fail due to its soldering failing from overheating years after years.
 

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Both 73 (and maybe 75) code can also occur if there is air in the system and the vehicle doesn't want to start, the ECU will give up after a while and cause the Comm code, often when you try again it starts fine, went through this many years ago chasing an issue. Also a damaged CAS can cause the code, so it is not always 100% related to the IP directly. You can unplug the connector at the pump and give it a good spray out in case there is crud in there.

Fuel is what cools and lubricates the pump, Several of us did a lot of testing many years ago working towards fuel coolers, if driving on very hot days fuel temp has been recorded at over 75c, I've never had it that high but have seen it in high 60's. From a US site years ago I found a reference to continued fuel temps in the 70's in the 6cyl version can cause failure of the board on top of the IP, people have rebuilt the board but I wouldn't attempt it. Changed my pump and injectors last year.

Since fitting my cooler many years ago I never see temps higher than low 50's, generally in mid to high 40's, where incidentally the vehicle loves that temp to be.
 

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What we do here to lubricate the pump is add 2 stroke oil ( 0.25 to 0.5 Liter) each time we refuel. That oil is a bit heavier than gazole, and some will remain in the pump to lubricate the little piston known to seize. In some cases, adding 2L in one go helped extending the life of a dying pump.
 

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What we do here to lubricate the pump is add 2 stroke oil ( 0.25 to 0.5 Liter) each time we refuel. That oil is a bit heavier than gazole, and some will remain in the pump to lubricate the little piston known to seize. In some cases, adding 2L in one go helped extending the life of a dying pump.
Have been adding two stroke to my diesels since 1983, my old 2.7 Rocky was the first, something I learned from a US truckers, it is very commonly used amongst the old DI owners here, one very looooooooooong thread on it that has been cleaned up but is still many pages long. Did a lot of testing on it and found that 200-1 (475ml to a main) works well, a long term test at 100-1 per main saw the rattles slowly return after a few tanks.
 
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