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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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there is one in @geeyoutoo ,s signature.
Lol, lots of links in my signature, and so far I have not been able to change it because the new XF system the forum runs on has much tighter rules than the old vB system so numerous links are no longer 'allowed', luckily my signature Grandfathered across when we migrated to XF 16 months ago so it stayed in tact but as said I cannot change it. For those looking the actual links are in RED and the Workshop Manual download is in post #9 of the DI archives.
 

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Lol, lots of links in my signature, and so far I have not been able to change it because the new XF system the forum runs on has much tighter rules than the old vB system so numerous links are no longer 'allowed', luckily my signature Grandfathered across when we migrated to XF 16 months ago so it stayed in tact but as said I cannot change it. For those looking the actual links are in RED and the Workshop Manual download is in post #9 of the DI archives.
links to manual and ecu diagnostics are not working on my phone or laptop
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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links to manual and ecu diagnostics are not working on my phone or laptop
Fixed, try again and let me know, I'm not sure if there is a limit to how many times it can be downloaded, I noticed both had 470 downloads and that number seems to ring a bell, I've had to reload the workshop manual from my laptop around 6 times since I originally loaded it to my storage site.
 

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Fixed, try again and let me know, I'm not sure if there is a limit to how many times it can be downloaded, I noticed both had 470 downloads and that number seems to ring a bell, I've had to reload the workshop manual from my laptop around 6 times since I originally loaded it to my storage site.
still not working for me on iPhone .
I have a locksmith coming on Tuesday to look at the security system hopefully that fixes my issue .
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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I know manual is working, I tested it be for replying, for the other you will need PDF reader, but, neither might work on phone anyway.
 

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What was the end result of this ? I’m currently having the same issue
Mine was running fine wouldn’t start the next day . Not getting fuel to injectors. I Hotwired the pump following an American procedure on vp44s and still didn’t start so I changed fuel pump . Still no go . Getting code 0706 . Previously was getting a nats code . Just found I’m getting constant 12v to earth pin 5 . Can you cut out pin 5 and ground to engine too bypass ??
There were/are different technical standards in the US than elsewhere including Europe, where VP44/PSG5 was manufactured for the European market too. So, you can apply method that works there but it doesn't necessarily mean it would work in your case. Maybe PSG that controls the pump on your vehicle requires CANbus message from the ECU to start making high pressure and inject fuel into cylinders. One thing is for sure, there is some condition that is not met and so the ECU is constantly sending direct shutoff command (pin#5). You can try cutting off that wire just to see if it would start, in my case it wouldn't work anyway. I tried another method, direct connection 12V to pin#7, GND to pin#6, and GND to pin#4 (low idle select), although I was not sure what pin#4 actually required and it didn't work again. So, first thing to do is to find why ECU is constantly sending 12V to pin#5 (shutoff pin), its purpose is to command pump stop making high pressure so the engine starves for fuel and stops working.
 

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There were/are different technical standards in the US than elsewhere including Europe, where VP44/PSG5 was manufactured for the European market too. So, you can apply method that works there but it doesn't necessarily mean it would work in your case. Maybe PSG that controls the pump on your vehicle requires CANbus message from the ECU to start making high pressure and inject fuel into cylinders. One thing is for sure, there is some condition that is not met and so the ECU is constantly sending direct shutoff command (pin#5). You can try cutting off that wire just to see if it would start, in my case it wouldn't work anyway. I tried another method, direct connection 12V to pin#7, GND to pin#6, and GND to pin#4 (low idle select), although I was not sure what pin#4 actually required and it didn't work again. So, first thing to do is to find why ECU is constantly sending 12V to pin#5 (shutoff pin), its purpose is to command pump stop making high pressure so the engine starves for fuel and stops working.
still working on this now and haven’t found why pin 5 would be sending message Nats all good. Ecu replacement next up
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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Did you measure the MAF voltage with just the key on, without cranking ?
I do know that if the MAF voltage is not around 1V ( can't remember the exact voltages above which and/or below which the motor would not start but I ensure you it is the case.
MAF unplugged ( no voltage at all) is better than a wrong 'key on' voltage in that case.

There might be other sensors which would prevent the motor to start, as declared 'out of order' by the ECU.
I would also check the temp sensors. I would not be surprised if the coolant temp sensor is far too high, the ECU would not authorize the pump to inject fuel and the motor to start.
I am not convinced this problem comes from your ECU itself.

How did you check the NATS was in order ?
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Did you measure the MAF voltage with just the key on, without cranking ?
I do know that if the MAF voltage is not around 1V ( can't remember the exact voltages above which and/or below which the motor would not start but I ensure you it is the case.
MAF unplugged ( no voltage at all) is better than a wrong 'key on' voltage in that case.

There might be other sensors which would prevent the motor to start, as declared 'out of order' by the ECU.
I would also check the temp sensors. I would not be surprised if the coolant temp sensor is far too high, the ECU would not authorize the pump to inject fuel and the motor to start.
I am not convinced this problem comes from your ECU itself.

How did you check the NATS was in order ?
Normal MAFv reading with ign on is around 1.04v.
 

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NISSAN PATROL Y61 3.0 Di (ZD30) 09/2000
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And from the top of my head, above 1.3V or 1.4V, the Patrol would not start.
 

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still working on this now and haven’t found why pin 5 would be sending message Nats all good. Ecu replacement next up
You have to find out the reason why ECU sends shut off signal to the pump, before all...in order not to throw your money away. Replacing everything will cost a lot and yet you might end up not resolving the problem. For example, shift lever left in any position other than P/N will result in ECU not allowing engine to start (cranks but not start). Disconnected crankshaft position sensor also. Without starting algorithm we can't really know how some programmer there programmed the ECU. Maybe that temperature sensor can also mess up things there. Maybe if you could just try another (used) ECU to see if things will work, but not to buy expensive part only to realize the old one was good.
 

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In the case of the neutral switch (on a manual), even if out of order (indicating "gear on" all the time, the Patrol would crank and 'jump forward' ( not sure if she would start. probably not).
So check sensors and earthing. There aren't so many. Have a look in the Nissan technical manual(s), they might give you some additional clues too...
@Alesio is right, don't spend a fortune if unnecessary.

Last, but not least, what is indicated in the Nissan doc is for a 'RUNNING MOTOR'.
Be aware that when ignition is ON, motor stopped, it might be a different story.

I have no idea (yet) of the precise "start sequence' dialogue between ECM and IP, but would not be surprised that the 'GO' be provided to the pump by the ECU ONLY when RPM is high enough during cranking, otherwise you would just inject fuel which would not burn. So maybe you should check the pin voltage level DURING cranking as its voltage might change.

A relatively frequent failure on the VP44 pump is one of the two MOSFETs of its electronics failing, either due its soldering points being overheated years after years, and/or one of its two power transistors dying due to high Amps when, for instance, the advance piston is seized. Some companies repair the electronics. The transistor cost is less than $1. Others refurbish the full pump.
With 460 000km, don't be surprised if it happened to you. Average life span in Europe is around 250 000km. So yours did very well already.
 

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I have not checked the maf voltage reading or temp sensor I shall do this tomorrow. I had an automotive locksmith visit the car and go over the nats system and he ensured me that all was in working order . He also told me the ecu had about 50 fault codes and that was my problem ? And when I replace the ecu I will need him to connect it too my current key again at a cost of $250. I can buy an ecu for $145.
Pin 52 or pin 5 is reading 10+ volts when cranking as well . Sending no fuel . Scanned again today and getting code 1405, 0706, and 0704
I have read the manuals and cannot find correlation as to what pin 52 is sub controlled by and what a mab is?
 

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"...'GO' be provided to the pump by the ECU ONLY when RPM is high enough during cranking, otherwise you would just inject fuel which would not burn..." - that's a very good point. Good logic stands behind that, for you don't want any liquid including fuel inside cylinder (no hydro lock). Maybe they didn't go that far with logic though. We can't be sure about that without precise algorithm.
Anyways, here is what I know (and don't know) about VP44 function:
  • If the metering valve needle moves forward, it provides a condition for high pressure to be built at all. That high pressure opens the injector and fuel is being sprayed into cylinder. The more the needle is pushed forward the greater period of time it will hold high pressure in the line so more fuel will enter the cylinders to be burnt hopefully.
  • What moves that needle back and forth >>> the solenoid at the back of the pump, which is energized from the pump electronics (PSG - two black wires). So, in order pump to start to deliver high pressure (to start the engine) it needs its PSG to be told to do so by the ECU, using the CAN bus line (pins 1 and 2). Maybe, I can't say I am sure about that...
  • Default position of the needle is fully open. In this position VP44 cannot build up high pressure. It has to get a signal from ECU to close it enough for pump to start making it. Otherwise, you can crank it till tomorrow, metering valve is fully open and there is no high pressure in the pump, no fuel enters the cylinders.
  • Pin 5, definitely is used to tell the PSG to move the needle back to the end (fully open) so that the VP44 cease to produce high pressure. Valve is fully open and all the fuel is being pushed back into the fuel tank.
  • Pin 8, is where PSG gets information from the ECU about crank position. This signal is being compared to the inner pump rotor position sensor's signal and according to the timing difference between those two signals, PSG commands timing valve to move to a proper position in order to provide required (by the ECU) angle of injection (retardation or advance). If this wire is broken, the engine won't start. ECU won't command PSG to start making pressure.
  • Vane pump (which pulls fuel from the tank) provides 300 psi of pressure inside pump and you can see that when you disconnect any fuel line at the injector and crank.
 

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I have not checked the maf voltage reading or temp sensor I shall do this tomorrow. I had an automotive locksmith visit the car and go over the nats system and he ensured me that all was in working order . He also told me the ecu had about 50 fault codes and that was my problem ? And when I replace the ecu I will need him to connect it too my current key again at a cost of $250. I can buy an ecu for $145.
Pin 52 or pin 5 is reading 10+ volts when cranking as well . Sending no fuel . Scanned again today and getting code 1405, 0706, and 0704
I have read the manuals and cannot find correlation as to what pin 52 is sub controlled by and what a mab is?
Yes, that is the whole story here, what causes (not met and met conditions) ECU to send high voltage to its terminal 52 (pin 5). That is why we need the algorithm.
It may be the ECU, but what if it is not? Doing so you will finally buy a new car... I agree with Phdv61, erase all the codes reset the whole system. Then turn key on but not crank and after a minut read the codes. After that crank the engine and read the codes again to see if anything changed. You could also measure the voltage on pin 5 all the time to see what happens with it before key on, when key on and while cranking. Then get back here with fresh data to discuss further.
 

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Yes, that is the whole story here, what causes (not met and met conditions) ECU to send high voltage to its terminal 52 (pin 5). That is why we need the algorithm.
It may be the ECU, but what if it is not? Doing so you will finally buy a new car... I agree with Phdv61, erase all the codes reset the whole system. Then turn key on but not crank and after a minut read the codes. After that crank the engine and read the codes again to see if anything changed. You could also measure the voltage on pin 5 all the time to see what happens with it before key on, when key on and while cranking. Then get back here with fresh data to discuss further.
my latest update on the car, swapped an ecm had a locksmith come and program it . Started on start ya batted and was running all good.
Old ecm had 50 fault codes .
stopped the car Try to start again no start. And still having power to pin 5 10.5 volts when ignition on and cranking, with the harness unplugged I am measuring this.
Can somewhere please unplug their harness and measure what there reading is in case I am looking in complete wrong direction.
just need this engine going for a week to get a rwc have a Barra ready
 

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When cranking with plug in 0.5v is what I’m getting . Nissan specifies 0.1v when engine idling. Can someone also verify this . If all this is normal I will replace injector pump again . Spill valve code 0704 / 0706 clearing than coming back thinking this injector pump may be fried
 

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my latest update on the car, swapped an ecm had a locksmith come and program it . Started on start ya batted and was running all good.
Old ecm had 50 fault codes .
stopped the car Try to start again no start. And still having power to pin 5 10.5 volts when ignition on and cranking, with the harness unplugged I am measuring this.
Can somewhere please unplug their harness and measure what there reading is in case I am looking in complete wrong direction.
just need this engine going for a week to get a rwc have a Barra ready
Have you measured pin 5 voltage with new ECM, before car started running? And while running? Man you have to measure voltage with each step you take. You can also stick a thin needle into wire and measure voltage that way while connected. I can't help you with that right now because I am not anywhere near my vehicle.
 

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When cranking with plug in 0.5v is what I’m getting . Nissan specifies 0.1v when engine idling. Can someone also verify this . If all this is normal I will replace injector pump again . Spill valve code 0704 / 0706 clearing than coming back thinking this injector pump may be fried
That should be normal voltage, 0.5V.

I don't think that that pump was fried. Maybe spill valve stuck or its solenoid faulty...

Maybe this may help if you want to check spill valve with multimeter,
spill valve solenoid: 0.3Ω , 0.04mH
timing valve solenoid: 8.9Ω , 6mH
 
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