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· Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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11,511 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently picked up an old Warn M10000, naturally I didn't bother to measure anything before I did, and later realised it won't fit my winch bar.
To be fair, I was gonna buy it anyway...

Whacking a 4.5hp short motor from an M8000 in place of the current 4.6hp will solve my issues, but despite the similar outputs a bloke from a warn parts supplier reckons there'll be a noticeable difference in performance.
Lower torque or RPM I suppose. He didn't specify.
Any insights into that? Warn don't seem to publish those specs from what I've found.

I could always sell this and buy a winch that'll fit, but evidently I like creating issues for myself.
 

· Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
Joined
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19,176 Posts
That would be the warn 77893 I expect? It superseded a swag of earlier motors and is recommended for the 6000 and 8000.

To be honest I wouldn’t use it, it may technically be 4.5hp vs 4.6hp but it has a lot less torque and so will your winch.

The M10000 is a big mother of a unit, I have one sitting at home to rebuild for a bloke. Near enough to 50kgs if it has steel cable.

If you end up rebuilding it, be VERY careful when dismantling the gearbox, they’re a completely different proposition to the 9500 and down, there is approx 4 million small ball bearings in the outer case, all eagerly waiting to pounce on your shed floor the moment an unsuspecting victim unleashed them.

Personally I would do whatever I could to make the 4.6 fit (or better still a 6hp, but that’s even longer by about 40mm), or if that can’t be done maybe look at other options.

I highly recommend the twin 6hp gigglepin high mount myself but then I have a camper trailer, I’m usually on my own and overkill is my middle name hahaha!

The M10000 is a great, solid, weapons grade old school winch so if you can make it work out that would be my preferred option. Even if you modify bar to move it over 30mm or so, doable???
 

· Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
11,511 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That would be the warn 77893 I expect? It superseded a swag of earlier motors and is recommended for the 6000 and 8000.

To be honest I wouldn’t use it, it may technically be 4.5hp vs 4.6hp but it has a lot less torque and so will your winch.

The M10000 is a big mother of a unit, I have one sitting at home to rebuild for a bloke. Near enough to 50kgs if it has steel cable.

If you end up rebuilding it, be VERY careful when dismantling the gearbox, they’re a completely different proposition to the 9500 and down, there is approx 4 million small ball bearings in the outer case, all eagerly waiting to pounce on your shed floor the moment an unsuspecting victim unleashed them.

Personally I would do whatever I could to make the 4.6 fit (or better still a 6hp, but that’s even longer by about 40mm), or if that can’t be done maybe look at other options.

I highly recommend the twin 6hp gigglepin high mount myself but then I have a camper trailer, I’m usually on my own and overkill is my middle name hahaha!

The M10000 is a great, solid, weapons grade old school winch so if you can make it work out that would be my preferred option. Even if you modify bar to move it over 30mm or so, doable???
Thanks for the reply Lee, yep the motor I was looking at is the 77893, I had kinda expected lower torque or at least max RPM so its good to have that confirmed.

I have it all pulled down, except for those gears you speak of, ran out of time. Pretty happy with the condition of the internals, no signs of water ingress and only light surface rust on the inside of the drum. Only issue I've found so far is one motor brush had loose wires, I'd imagine they're retained with some kind of epoxy, so I'll try something similar and if it doesn't work I'll replace the brush holder assembly.

I'd love a high mount, being an option on the old MK and given the bar was designed to fit one it'd be right at home, the budget doesn't quite stretch that far though lol. Also having a winch with as much power as my engine is kinda embarrassing.

I will have to take a few more measurements and see what I can do to fit this thing, it fits between the chassis rails which is the main thing. I could possibly get the bar modified so the fairlead sits off to one side a bit, or find some way to make it look centred.
 

· Every dog has his day
2005 TD42 GU IV
Joined
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19,176 Posts
James I did something similar with a mate’s car, a winch had to be fitted offset to make it fit but he didn’t want it to look that way, wanted it to look as central as possible. His OCD wouldn’t allow it. (Just quietly I struggled with it myself).

The simple solution in his case, mounted the actual winch where we had to to make it fit, got two cheap aluminium hawse fairleads, cut them both and welded them together at the right length , polished it all up and you could barely notice it was not one longer one from the word go (a mate who is an ally welding legend did that part).

Of course a closer look revealed the black steel behind a couple of inches at one end of the fair lead, but at a cursory glance it all looked kosher.

Maybe this could be an option? Say if winch is 50mm over to passenger side, then make hawse 100mm longer to create the illusion. Not 100% ideal, there is one direction of winching that can expose your rope to the bull ar’s material instead of hawse, but he was happy to cop that. Hope that makes sense anyway.
 

· Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
11,511 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A similar thought occured to me a couple hours after posting. It'll be easy to enlarge the fairlead cutout in my bullbar anyway, it's just a simple hole in the front face of the bar with a few holes around it lol.

I think I'd struggle with the look of an offset fairlead too.
 

· Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
·
11,511 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You have plenty of spare vehicles; why not cut and shut a few together to re-centre the fairlead?

Bit more interior space, too (y) .
I can't weld, but I do have plenty of pop rivets and bog.
I can make that work...
 

· Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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11,511 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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