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The idea is not to have deceleration surge As thats when you could have issues with W/M.
Now im worried
looked into a solenoid controlled blow-of valve to stop the deceleration surge but it wont fix the acceleration surge I get occasionally, especially when towing. Changing down a gear sorts it but if I miss the gear change.:(
Think my plan of pre turbo might be to dangerous with my set up.
 

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I'm just about to purchase my water meth kit I was recommended cm2 pre turbo as that is the smallest and cm3 post. Is it only around cm3+ that seems to cause issues is not setup perfectly? Mine will be injected right in front of the nut so atomisation should be good
I run a cm10 in the piping just before intake mani with no dramas.
 

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Thanks simcoe that rules out the sizing being too large in combination. what I wasn't sure of was pre turbo sizing and what is too large I saw a few posts of others misfortune with cm3s just want to know if it seems to be 3+
 

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Anyone? Is cm2 fine for pre turbo? Or is it starting to get a bit large?
Pablo, looking back through some of geeyoutoo's posts on the explanation of his turbo blade damage, I think it was more a combination of jet size and particularly the nozzle position was causing spray pattern to hit the sides of the intake to the turbo and form droplets which then hit the blade tips. If you can get the nozzle position to spray very close into the blades then it cannot form the droplets.

I don't know how simcoe's set up gets away with the large jet size, but his is not a ZD30? also may be a turbo with the anti surge ports in the inlet housing so drops enter the side chamber not front on to the blades.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Anyone? Is cm2 fine for pre turbo? Or is it starting to get a bit large?

Can't remember what engine you have (it really is handy to have something in your signature so everyone knows instantly), a CM2 will pump around 180-250ml/min depending on your pressure setting, I'm currently running a Snow2 which pushes 100-120 @ 200psi. The Snow 2 is quite a comfortable nozzle for mine, I could probably go bigger but being a tourer I also need to think about eco. As I've said before my nozzle is 4mm away from the compwheel shaft/nut so no issues.


I would suggest that a start low and work up strategy might be worth doing, when I bought my kit i bought quite a few nozzles but as I progressed I changed manufacturer and sizes so often things change down the track and it is cheaper to by a few now than it is to add more later, postage can be a killer.
 

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Thanks geeyou I will make a signature
I have a Td42 and will be making anything from 230-270hp I will place the nozzle right in front of the comp wheel nut and have a solenoid as close as possible. I'm going to get a cooling mist kit and the smallest they offer is 2gph so I was planning 2pre turbo and 3 on piping leading to the manifold.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Thanks geeyou I will make a signature
I have a Td42 and will be making anything from 230-270hp I will place the nozzle right in front of the comp wheel nut and have a solenoid as close as possible. I'm going to get a cooling mist kit and the smallest they offer is 2gph so I was planning 2pre turbo and 3 on piping leading to the manifold.

Is that US GPH or Imperial GPH? My pre turbo will pump out 72LPH at full noise.
 

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I'm not sure coolingmist.com simply state that the number relates to how many gallons per hour it will flow at 100psi I will be doing everything by ideals by spraying right at the nut having solenoid and having it only work on a high duty cycle my concern is just Wether its a bit much or not
 

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I'm not sure coolingmist.com simply state that the number relates to how many gallons per hour it will flow at 100psi I will be doing everything by ideals by spraying right at the nut having solenoid and having it only work on a high duty cycle my concern is just Wether its a bit much or not
For the amount of air you will be moving I think you will be ok, keep your pump pressure as low as you can to start with, by that I mean that 100psi they dictate gives that flow rate.
 

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@geeyoutoo thankyou I just needed some reassurance as I didn't want to go in blindly. As you have a similar setup how do you go with atomisation for various duty cycles? I will test it out of the car however I would like your opinion on what pressure I should stay above to ensure proper atomisation? This is still the unknown as I will have my nozzle at the comp wheel and solenoid as close as possible this is the last variable to get right or is it just a matter of seeing what works for me?
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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@geeyoutoo thankyou I just needed some reassurance as I didn't want to go in blindly. As you have a similar setup how do you go with atomisation for various duty cycles? I will test it out of the car however I would like your opinion on what pressure I should stay above to ensure proper atomisation? This is still the unknown as I will have my nozzle at the comp wheel and solenoid as close as possible this is the last variable to get right or is it just a matter of seeing what works for me?

I run my solenoid through an adjustable Hobbs switch that is connected via my TPS and a voltage switch, the solenoid can't open before 15psi and 33% TPS, I did this because the CM failsafe module I had installed when I upgraded couldn't handle the variables I had with multiple nozzles, it kept going to alarm which I got sick of resetting and finally blew up, so I devised my own safety system. I was concerned because when I first did WM I had a full DO system and I filled the turbo with water while playing one day. My current home made safety system seems to work fine.
 

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I run my solenoid through an adjustable Hobbs switch that is connected via my TPS and a voltage switch, the solenoid can't open before 15psi and 33% TPS, I did this because the CM failsafe module I had installed when I upgraded couldn't handle the variables I had with multiple nozzles, it kept going to alarm which I got sick of resetting and finally blew up, so I devised my own safety system. I was concerned because when I first did WM I had a full DO system and I filled the turbo with water while playing one day. My current home made safety system seems to work fine.
How did you set up safeties for the system? I was planning on running cooling mist with failsafe for its error detection and their boost switch to turn the pre turbo solenoid
 

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How did you set up safeties for the system? I was planning on running cooling mist with failsafe for its error detection and their boost switch to turn the pre turbo solenoid

My safety is basically the Hobbs pressure switch, they are adjustable up to a certain range (different models) so you put power in one side and that power will not be applied until your set pressure is achieved. Their boost switch works OK I have two of them, but the hysteresis is not the best, sure it will switch on at your setting but will remain on at much lower value, so it depends on how you are going to use it I suppose. Mine was in use for months and as the system became more complicated the safety couldn't cope with the variables so it seems, constantly going into alarm until it finally gave up the ghost, you can see the 'hot' spot on the casing. The Hobbs works well.

CM Failsafe
Safety Switch.jpg

Hobbs
Hobbs2.JPG

Hobbs info if your interested
Hobbs Switch.jpg

How my system is configured, but with a Hobbs after hysteresis issues with CM switch
SCAN0510.1.jpg
 

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My safety is basically the Hobbs pressure switch, they are adjustable up to a certain range (different models) so you put power in one side and that power will not be applied until your set pressure is achieved. Their boost switch works OK I have two of them, but the hysteresis is not the best, sure it will switch on at your setting but will remain on at much lower value, so it depends on how you are going to use it I suppose. Mine was in use for months and as the system became more complicated the safety couldn't cope with the variables so it seems, constantly going into alarm until it finally gave up the ghost, you can see the 'hot' spot on the casing. The Hobbs works well.

CM Failsafe
View attachment 483265

Hobbs
View attachment 483267

Hobbs info if your interested
View attachment 483271

How my system is configured, but with a Hobbs after hysteresis issues with CM switch
View attachment 483273
That's how I was planning on wiring it all. So do you just have indicator LEDs now and no fail-safe? Having had this failure would you recommend I do or don't worry about the fail-safe I figured it would be ok as I don't have tps input. However mine will be almost identical to yours aside from that. Also where did you buy your Hobbs switch?
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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That's how I was planning on wiring it all. So do you just have indicator LEDs now and no fail-safe? Having had this failure would you recommend I do or don't worry about the fail-safe I figured it would be ok as I don't have tps input. However mine will be almost identical to yours aside from that. Also where did you buy your Hobbs switch?

Me personally, I wouldn't bother with the failsafe, the melted one I have sits in the shed to remind me to never do it again :). You can build in your own failsafe, I'm quite happy with mine and it was worked for more years than the failsafe did. The Hobbs and a few LED's do the job very well. I have the LEDS setup just down and to the side of the steering wheel.
Left to right:

1. Red, Tank is nearing empty.
2. Green. Solenoid is open and pre turbo is operational.
3. Green. Normal WM is operational.


The solenoid is fully primed when it opens, from the solenoid to the nozzle would be around 250mm, I can't get it much closer than that as the turbo is quite low and it would be in direct heat and no room.
 

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Me personally, I wouldn't bother with the failsafe, the melted one I have sits in the shed to remind me to never do it again :). You can build in your own failsafe, I'm quite happy with mine and it was worked for more years than the failsafe did. The Hobbs and a few LED's do the job very well. I have the LEDS setup just down and to the side of the steering wheel.
Left to right:

1. Red, Tank is nearing empty.
2. Green. Solenoid is open and pre turbo is operational.
3. Green. Normal WM is operational.


The solenoid is fully primed when it opens, from the solenoid to the nozzle would be around 250mm, I can't get it much closer than that as the turbo is quite low and it would be in direct heat and no room.
Thanks i know what my setup will be like now I am planning on running cm2 pre turbo and cm3 in pipework to manifold. Both will have solenoids as close as possible. Pre turbo will be in a holder a couple of mm from the nut. I will use a Dawes valve to control pre turbo and will just use a couple of leds as indicators like you. I will be using 50/50 so does it sound like I am on top of it all or are there some pointers to give?
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Thanks i know what my setup will be like now I am planning on running cm2 pre turbo and cm3 in pipework to manifold. Both will have solenoids as close as possible. Pre turbo will be in a holder a couple of mm from the nut. I will use a Dawes valve to control pre turbo and will just use a couple of leds as indicators like you. I will be using 50/50 so does it sound like I am on top of it all or are there some pointers to give?
Sorry mate, do you mean Hobbs switch to control pre turbo?
 
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