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Discussion Starter #1
Upon inspection of my original water pump found its due for replacement after 155,000 km, thought it was a bit too soon for it to die, a lot of slop in the shaft.
My Question is which water pump to buy and stay clear off.
Genuine or GMB.

Any relevant input would be appreciated.
 

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A lot of theories have changed since 2012 when this thread was last replied to! I would do a little more research before making a decision,
 

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A lot of theories have changed since 2012 when this thread was last replied to! I would do a little more research before making a decision,
See if you can hound plumma to release his new "kit". Any updates @plumma been a while since we heard anything.
 

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Been waiting on that info myself. It appears to me to be all smoke and mirrors! Let’s hope not. Surely Plumma is a man of his word!!
Info was due to be released early in the year, perhaps he got his years mixed up!!
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
GQ Ute 1990 Silvertop
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Development always takes time especially if its just a hobby. The system is still being tested and will be done with more power to make sure its all as it should be.
 

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So is genuine still the way to go?
Water pump is next on my list.
Sorry guys I meant to quote Laurie in not mudrat. Yes I'm hoping plumma's kit comes in soon as an option for guys. I'm not having issues but you never know. For the record Laurie if I need a pump and nothing has eventuated from plumma's end I'll be going with the JPC pump. It may not be perfect but I know of a couple circumstances where it has helped others so to me that's better than nothing. Unless your existing pump is completely shagged then I don't see a genuine one making any difference.

I remember that famous guy that was smarter than me once said:

“The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.”






(For the record I do know who said that before anyone starts shooting me)
 

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Development always takes time especially if its just a hobby. The system is still being tested and will be done with more power to make sure its all as it should be.
Good to hear Pete, here's hoping I don't need to address the issue until it is sorted and ready to go. 🤞🤞
 

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Sorry guys I meant to quote Laurie in not mudrat. Yes I'm hoping plumma's kit comes in soon as an option for guys. I'm not having issues but you never know. For the record Laurie if I need a pump and nothing has eventuated from plumma's end I'll be going with the JPC pump. It may not be perfect but I know of a couple circumstances where it has helped others so to me that's better than nothing. Unless your existing pump is completely shagged then I don't see a genuine one making any difference.

I remember that famous guy that was smarter than me once said:

“The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.”






(For the record I do know who said that before anyone starts shooting me)
No idea what my original water pump condition is, never had it out.
Summer is coming to an end now and it's not my daily anymore so I can hold off until next summer.
 

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GUII ZD30DI Wgn
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Interesting it says moving water too fast can be as bad as not fast enough.
Ive lot count of the times oldmav has said this is not true with the td42 cooling system ...
Obviously the 4.2 has some differences in how it reacts to certain parameters. It is generally accepted that moving too fast can have side effects. I know it's a long time ago and they weren't diesels but when I was building my own racing cars and engines I never used a thermostat, but not having something in place was not a success, I used orifice plates instead, had a plate with a different size hole for just about every circuit in the eastern states because they all caused different reactions, principle doesn't work on road though due to said variations.
 

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Funny they are trying to imply they have the only truly designed and tested version and only new core item. Yet JPC is new and theirs looks very much like a copy of the JPC unit. At least as best as I can make out on my phone anyway.
A lot of unsupported marketing hype it would appear in that ad. Maybe they have something somewhere to support the claims.
 

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nissan patrol
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See if you can hound plumma to release his new "kit". Any updates @plumma been a while since we heard anything.
Updates:

Unfortunately nothing to report.
No work has taken place since the last update. The 'test Mule' is still doing its daily duties and towing the boat when called upon.

The next procedure is to replace the turbo to reduce the exhaust manifold pressure (EMP) down to 1:1 or hopefully less.

Why?
Because with the high EMP, it's a restriction in the exhaust and at above 10psi inlet manifold pressure the heat retention is ridiculous.
You could have the ultimate cooling system but under load on hot days it's never going to be stable.
So... the plan was to have this sorted in the early new year....
Due to circumstance beyond my control this has blown out a bit.
With luck things should progress soon, and regardless of results, good bad or different I will post.
 

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Interesting it says moving water too fast can be as bad as not fast enough.
Ive lot count of the times oldmav has said this is not true with the td42 cooling system ...

This is an ambiguous statement.
It all depends on where the water is circulating. With the thermostat shut, the pump is circulating water throughout the engine only. It's here you can't circulate to fast. Although when you really get it circulating you are presented with a new realm of problems. It's when the thermostat opens, and worse stays open is when you can circulate water to fast through the radiator. Yes, a typical radiator is designed to remove about 25°c of temp between top and bottom hoses.
BUT, the longer you can leave the water in the radiator stationary the more heat transfer can take place.
This is why it's critical the thermostat cycle, rather than just staying open.
My top hose temps are at around 90°c and my bottom are at about 50°c. With a constantly open thermostat bottom hose temp would be at 65°c-70°c depending on how efficient your radiator is.
 
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