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GU8 CRD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here is a project. Haven't welded panels for about 15 years and my MIG is broken down although I should be able to borrow one if need be. My options are:

  • Bog with fibreglass filler
  • Cover with a layer of fibreglass and epoxy
  • Weld in a patch with 0.6 steel wire
  • Weld in a patch with silicon bronze

Although I already have a suitable cut from a wreck to use for a patch, personally I'm inclined to fibreglass / epoxy over the top as I'm sure rust will just start popping out in other spots over time.

What'ya think??
 

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nissan patrol gq lwb wagon
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know anyone with a tig machine ?will minimise distortion and much prettier to look at, at end product if all else fails use fiberglass/resin there`s aproduct out now called solarcure(or solar-rez) no mixing comes in a tube,squeeze it on, flatten it out then put it out in the sun,it sets in about 30 seconds will be rock solid in 15 mins=expensive but...u will find it in surfshops.....
 

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If you weld there is a chance the foof will wobble.
I had the same problem with my MK and solved this with solder.
Cleen off all the rust with sandblaster and take some lead-paste to get leaded surfase,and fill the holes with bar of lead.(the kind you can smear with low heat)
A decent auto restoration store or DIY shop can provide you with base materials.
The advantage is you won't torch your car or melt the dash with welding drops and lesser heat is lesser disformation.
 

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You can buy a product called "Quicksteel" which is a steel reinforced epoxy putty from any automotive store.
It is a 2 part product that looks & feels just like play-dough but once you mix it together in your hands it heats up and bonds like solid steel. Grind it back to a smooth surface once cured then paint the area & Irenes your Aunty...

ETA: Here is a link so you know what you are looking at!!!
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...UE4&srccode=cii_9324560&cpncode=21-81776685-2
 

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If you weld you'll be boggin it too so just bog it, its only small holes and should take well.
 

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Has the rusted from the outside in OR the inside out?

I can't quite make it out from the picture.

If its outside in then personally I would try to fill those holes with the mig. I always use 0.6mm wire.

With a bit of patience you can fill holes like that with minimal distortion then simply grind flush with a flexible or flap disc.

IF you decided to cut it out you will run the risk of distortion of the roof panel as its under some tension.

Alternatively if you clean up the rust very thoroughly you can use a good quality filler but make sure your use plenty of fish oil behind the repair.

I would always overcoat the whole repair with an epoxy paint just to make sure its all sealed in.

Good Luck.

Cheers

Justin
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the responses guys. Yeah, it is rusted from the outside in (water sitting between windscreen seal and roof). Still in two minds on this. My boilermaker mate said to "just bog it" - typical boilermaker lol!. I'm thinking I might try the epoxy putty and throw the cut in the shed and weld it in in a year or two if there are any rust breakouts although I do have to bust the welder out for another patch so I'll probably give in and weld it any way do-uh!
 

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nissan gu
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Ok, here is a project. Haven't welded panels for about 15 years and my MIG is broken down although I should be able to borrow one if need be. My options are:

  • Bog with fibreglass filler
  • Cover with a layer of fibreglass and epoxy
  • Weld in a patch with 0.6 steel wire
  • Weld in a patch with silicon bronze
Although I already have a suitable cut from a wreck to use for a patch, personally I'm inclined to fibreglass / epoxy over the top as I'm sure rust will just start popping out in other spots over time.

What'ya think??
IMHO, Best fix is mig welding with 0.6 wire and copper backing bar.
I've read a lot of your previous posts, and realise you are pretty cluey about anything to do with welding, so I know you will have no dramas with fixing it.

TIG= too much heat and slow
MIG= less heat and fast.
Second option would be the Quickmetal epoxy.
Feel free to disagree!
Cheers.
[If you are in Brisbane and need a mig for the day, PM me.]
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah spot on gutsy I was originally going to patch it up with my oxy set, as I just lurve oxy welding. Problem is there's a metal inner skin behind the repair so it will be near impossible to belt the panel back into anything near the original shape. MIG, as you say, should be better with stitch welding, but I still live in fear ha ha as my panel beating skills leave a lot to be desired
 

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The old stop start with the Mig should'nt distort anything if you let each hole repair cool before starting the next.
It's not like you have to run a continuous fillet.
I know what you mean about panel repair, give me 10mm upwards any day!
 

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Spot by spot with the MIG is best for holes like that. As mentioned no need to lay a bead.

Can't tell you how many rust repairs i have made over the years but if you didn't live 3000 or more km away I'd be happy to MIG up something like that. Knowing it rusted from the "outside in" means you have a fighting chance to fill those holes.

Little welds grind nice and flush with next to zero distortion in an area like that meaning it will be 99% good as new.

Cheers

Justin
 
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