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nissan
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I haven't been in the forum much... Not doing much to the old troll that's required the collective knowledge of the forum and been pretty busy otherwise.

But, I have a confession... Those that noticed my old sig;

1999 4.2L Factory Turbo Diesel GU ST Wagon :cool:
2" lift, 3" straight through exhaust
12psi boost, Safari Snorkel, Uniden UH7750NB (80 Channel)
And Maxxis 751's <Suck in mud :sad:

I made some false statements... I'll back up a bit...

When I bought the Troll, I was told that it had a 3" exhaust (I assumed this meant the dump as well) and this it was tuned to 12psi (as the bleed valve was "modified" as it was restricting boost).

Well, recently I went to the US and whilst there bought some Auber instruments gauges for Boost and EGT. So was looking around the turbo to install the EGT probe, take off the heat shield and well it's still the stock dump... Well it was a pain to get to all the bolts, so EGT probe has been tied out out of the way for now - questions to follow, (yes there are questions...) Then the boost, I tee'd off at the hose going to the pump boost comp, wired it all in and took it for a run. Well it was lucky to make 9psi (8.8 steady until higher rpm, then slight rise). Never trust a used car salesman, even a private one.

So I have adjusted my signature until I have resolved the issues. :oops:

Now the questions.

What is the easiest way of getting to the dump? I will either need to drill the stock one or buy an aftermarket, but when trying to get to it, it was a real pain to get too. Would removing exhaust and then taking the whole turbo off the manifold be the easiest?

Next, shall I run with the stock for the time being or should I seriously look into an aftermarket one (This would probably tie in with the next question)?

So to up the boost (to 12psi), I'm assuming a controller is needed. Will this one work fine NEW Turbotech Adjustable Turbo Boost Controller Universal Blue | eBay ? And will I see gains even with stock dump?
 

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nissan
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With a bit of wd40 on the nuts and a ratchet spanner the dump will unbolt no problems.

But while it's off it would be worthwhile throwing it in the in and getting a 3" dump. It will improve the responsiveness.

Having said that if you ever plan upgrade the turbo (a worthwhile investment indeed) the dump will need to be changed again. Depending on your budget, going straight to the new turbo and matching dump is the best bang for your buck.

Yes that boost tee will do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Timo, budget wise, I will probably just drill the stock dump for now, and when I can, get a turbo/dump combo then. I'm pretty happy with how she drives for now, even at 9psi... I know, I won't know myself once she's unleashed :)

AS for getting the dump off, I'm just having a lot of access issues. The lower front heat shield bolt is starting to round and I just can't get the right angles to it. I'm also fat fingered and might not quite have the right tools. Just wondering if it would be easier to remove the turbo, or at least loosen it to get access. Also the turbo to dump bolts are hard to reach.

Where can I get replacement gaskets?
 

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No harm in dropping the turbo off and you can reuse the gaskets just use some copper gasket maker.

Wd40 is your friend...let it soak overnight and repeat over a few days. If it's rounding off then put down the open ended ring spanner and use a good quality 3/8 or 1/4 socket or good quality ring spanner. It's fiddly but possible with a bit of patience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, unfortunately no room for a socket and the angled ringies, are not the right angle... And the dump to turbo, I just can't get the swing even with a ratchet, A/C lines are in the way. My arms already look like I've been fighting a cat! Not easy working on a lifted truck, even being tall.

I will have to set aside some time to pull out the turbo... Cheers.
 

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Azza. I removed my cast iron dump and replaced it with a Redback steel one and didn't have any particular trouble (the car was about 3 yo). From memory though, I think I had to shorten one of the studs by about 3mm to fit the Redback. Here's a few tricks. Use a single hex, half inch drive socket (impact sockets are ideal) but use a hand ratchet not an impact gun!!! Use Inox or similar - not much good though until nuts are loosened a tad and fluid can reach the thread. Get a long steel rod and a hammer and moderately hit the edges of the nuts or the heads of the bolts. If you feel the nut undo slightly, tighten it back up and try again - keep doing this until comes loose. To get my dump off, I lay on back with about 450mm of socket extensions and a universal joint and got all bolts/nuts relatively easily. Patience is the key - rush the job and you'll be in all sorts of strife. My best friend is Loktite anti-sieze. I put all my nuts and bolts back in with this stuff. Hope this helps. Deejay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Deejay, I'll have a look at the multiple extensions...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Alright, so I wasted most of the day yesterday. I got the heat shield off, the first section of exhaust off, and all the turbo to dump pipe nuts off... except one, the lowest and most difficult one. As it sits on the inside of the bend, the sockets were hard to align straight, and then it started to round... So as it is essentially fooked already, tried vice grips, but couldn't get much purchase. Thought about grinding it off, but couldn't get the grinding wheel close enough. One of those multitool thingy's (that I got for fathers day) grooved the edge of the nut before it went blunt... But I got close to the thread.

This is turning into a pain in the butt. So unless someone has another alternative, I think I'll go buy a few multitool blades, and hack at it, then replace the stud once the dump is off.

Talking about the dump, would it just be better getting a high flow one than drilling the stock one. Looking at this one.
Nissan Patrol Y61 4 2LTD 3" Dump Pipe UTE Wagon | eBay
 

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nissan gu
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Just drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the EGT probe. More accurate and way quicker.
Grease ya drill bits and tap and just run the motor wile your working the swarf will blow out before it can fall in
 

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When I did mine (1999 model too), I ended up having to buy these and just used them on every nut to save the pain of rounding them to oblivion with "star" sockets. True hex sockets might of done it, but the Irwin grip thingos worked great.
Irwin 5 Piece Bolt Grip Base Set I/N 5610060 | Bunnings Warehouse
It was a bloody and drawn out exercise, but was ultimately successful.
The other recommendation I read somewhere was Auto Transmission Fluid and acetone (50/50 mix) in a squirty bottle opposed to WD40 etc. Applied a few times in the preceding week. Not sure how much it helped but I did use it.
 

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I know what you meant Timo I was just trying to see the lighter side.. Every one of us can relate to this poor bloke's drama with the one last bolt...

I've never seen them Irwin things Angrybird mentioned sound pretty good, and from Bunnings of all places!
 
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So true. There's always one bolt that doesn't want to play.

Azza can you get at it with a Dremel and square it up again? Otherwise a bit of heat goes a long way sometimes. Hammer and chisel helps too.

Those bolt grip things that angry posted do look handy and Irwin tools seem to be pretty well made unlike most bunnings crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks RD&D, but I don't like the idea of swarf before the turbo, even if it is running, no offence. :)

Thanks Angrybird, but I think it is a bit too far gone for those, but they do look handy for the toolkit. I have seen them (or similar) before, but not recently.

Thanks Timo, but again, I think too far gone. I have checked the prices of new studs and $8.50ish is cheaper than $50 (or more for a dremel). I have a mate with a dremel like air tool, so might borrow that to cut off the stud...

Anyone know how hard it would be to get the stud out, noting that the dump will be off so will have more room to swing...
 

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Just drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the EGT probe. More accurate and way quicker.
Grease ya drill bits and tap and just run the motor wile your working the swarf will blow out before it can fall in
Thanks RD&D, but I don't like the idea of swarf before the turbo, even if it is running, no offence. :)
I was worried about that too but I did similar to RD&D and have never had any problems (2 years ago now). Since you are going to all the pain of getting the old dump off it would be well worth replacing it with an aftermarket one.
In my opinion the dump alone makes a massive difference even when bolted to the factory exhaust.

Best of luck with it.
 
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