Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner
15281 - 15300 of 15313 Posts

·
Registered
GQ Wagon TB42S
Joined
·
281 Posts
The front tank ;).

Being a GQ, it only came with one tank from the factory. I fitted an aftermarket auxiliary tank, along with a 6 port changeover valve. So I don't have "main" and "sub" tanks as such. I have two completely independent tanks which I have shown great imagination in designating the "Front Tank" and "Rear Tank".



I've installing the exact same setup - where did you get that switch from? I'm sick of scanning eBay and alibaba listngs looking for one just like that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
1989 GQ TD42 wagon
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
I've installing the exact same setup - where did you get that switch from? I'm sick of scanning eBay and alibaba listngs looking for one just like that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
The switch is a standard Czrling DPDT On-On switch with independant lights (i.e. not activated internally by the switch position). The cover is a custom one done by a mob called Custom Rockers, who are no longer in business. But there are plenty of paces who could duplicate it. https://www.aironboard.com.au/store/ is one place I know that did them. I presume they still do.

The other advice I would give you depends how you are planning to run your gauge(s). If you are using the switch mechanism in the 6 port valve to switch the factory gauge between tanks, never mind.

If you're going to fit a second gauge, then you can (and I think should) run 5 core trailer wire from the switch to the valve. Two wires are your switching wires (which you would have to run anyway). One wire is a +12V feed from whatever source you are powering the changeover function from. The last two are return wires which activate the lights in the switch. This setup gives you positive confirmation that the valve has in fact changed position when you flick the switch, and indeed that the valve is still plugged in.

The only reason I realised this is due to someone not plugging in the plug fully (many years ago). At that stage I had the switch lights activated by wiring at the back of the switch. Ran one tank down, switched to the other tank, and conked out a few kms later for lack of fuel. While crawling around under the vehicle, trying to diagnose the problem I bumped the loose plug and the valve clicked over! Plugged it in fully, primed the fuel lines, and away I went.
 

·
Registered
1989 GQ TD42 wagon
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
Which is why i really chose against a belly tank in my gq. Got close to fitting one a couple of months ago 🤣
I don't think it's any easier to fix if you get the same problem on a factory tank. Same number of hoses & electrical connectors. Not sure about mounting hardware.
 

·
Registered
GQ Wagon TB42S
Joined
·
281 Posts
The switch is a standard Czrling DPDT On-On switch with independant lights (i.e. not activated internally by the switch position). The cover is a custom one done by a mob called Custom Rockers, who are no longer in business. But there are plenty of paces who could duplicate it. AOB Homepage is one place I know that did them. I presume they still do.

The other advice I would give you depends how you are planning to run your gauge(s). If you are using the switch mechanism in the 6 port valve to switch the factory gauge between tanks, never mind.

If you're going to fit a second gauge, then you can (and I think should) run 5 core trailer wire from the switch to the valve. Two wires are your switching wires (which you would have to run anyway). One wire is a +12V feed from whatever source you are powering the changeover function from. The last two are return wires which activate the lights in the switch. This setup gives you positive confirmation that the valve has in fact changed position when you flick the switch, and indeed that the valve is still plugged in.

The only reason I realised this is due to someone not plugging in the plug fully (many years ago). At that stage I had the switch lights activated by wiring at the back of the switch. Ran one tank down, switched to the other tank, and conked out a few kms later for lack of fuel. While crawling around under the vehicle, trying to diagnose the problem I bumped the loose plug and the valve clicked over! Plugged it in fully, primed the fuel lines, and away I went.
Thanks mate, helpful info there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Premium Member
nissan
Joined
·
2,095 Posts
The block was returned after two months. I ended up replacing liners 1, 2, 5, and 6, and honing 3 and 4.
The nissan supply liners were larger than the grade 2 liners that were originally in there, and the clearances on 3 and 4 were about as narrow, so I adjusted all the cylinders to the same degree.

534449
534450
534451
 

·
Premium Member
nissan
Joined
·
2,095 Posts
start painting the blocks that had severe surface rust. I repeatedly treated it with acid and polished it with a brush.
at first treated it with POR15 for heat resistance and rust prevention. After this, the color will be applied.

534674
534675
534676
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
49,267 Posts

·
Registered
1998 2.8GU wagon
Joined
·
3,071 Posts
Finished removing some weight. Took out one drawer, the gargo barrier & the roofrack, just leaving the cross bars on to carry the kayaks. Managed to get a bit over 50kg off, which leaves me with a total payload of 10kg before reaching GVM with SWMBO, myself & fuel on board. 😢
Seriously considering a Y62 when my late uncles estate is settled & if it's worth what we think it is, but that's going to be a while off yet.
Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Trunk
 

·
Registered
nissan
Joined
·
718 Posts
Worked out some more cold side pipework and ordered another water methanol nozzle to run twin nozzles. Boring stuff
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
49,267 Posts
Re routed first part of under bonnet Water Meth lines from firewall to both nozzles (pre turbo and throttle body).
Motor vehicle Car Hood Vehicle Auto part
 
15281 - 15300 of 15313 Posts
Top