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Hooked on to this and dragged it out of a culvert drain.

These guys did not have a clue, nearly put it on its roof head first. Would have, if they went in 1m to the right and dropped into the drain sump its self.

T intersection on a corner bend and I am hooked up, out in the middle of the road (was not a good spot), and asked this bloke to stand out on the road and warn on coming traffic so he stands on the side of the road (n)
View attachment 544204 View attachment 544205

Need more than a wax:LOL:
The fact that he can't follow instructions is proof in point of why they probably drove into the ditch in the first place....


Muppet
 

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1998 Nissan Patrol DX Wagon TD42+T
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97 Posts
Hooked on to this and dragged it out of a culvert drain.

These guys did not have a clue, nearly put it on its roof head first. Would have, if they went in 1m to the right and dropped into the drain sump its self.

T intersection on a corner bend and I am hooked up, out in the middle of the road (was not a good spot), and asked this bloke to stand out on the road and warn on coming traffic so he stands on the side of the road (n)
View attachment 544204 View attachment 544205

Need more than a wax:LOL:
Nice rescue..
 

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1998 Nissan Patrol DX Wagon TD42+T
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97 Posts
I butchered a spare rd28 airbox and fed some 💩 pipe in it.. gona stick it on the td tonight🤣
Helmet Food Sports gear Automotive lighting Gas

gota put a short straight bit in the end of the 90° to meet the current intake pipe.. but I'll be giving it a test spin tonight👌

Might even paint it so it doesn't look as 💩
 

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2013 GU Patrol Wagon ZD30 Auto
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63 Posts
Temporarily replaced hoses to/from fuel filter with transparent ones to see if there will be any air there. But I'm not sure how to understand what I saw.

I ran it and then let stand for a while. There's no air in the hose from filter to engine. But there's quite a lot of air in the hose from bulb to filter. It goes inside the filter when the engine is running and then comes back up to the hose when stopped. I disconnected that hose from the bulb and filled it with fuel as much as I could before connecting again. Is there a better way to get rid of that air pocket? Should there be no air at all before/in the filter or is it fine?

I also lost one of the hose clamps, I hate that type because they fall apart if unscrewed too much, will be replacing all of them with some other type.
 

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nissan
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2,153 Posts
Temporarily replaced hoses to/from fuel filter with transparent ones to see if there will be any air there. But I'm not sure how to understand what I saw.

I ran it and then let stand for a while. There's no air in the hose from filter to engine. But there's quite a lot of air in the hose from bulb to filter. It goes inside the filter when the engine is running and then comes back up to the hose when stopped. I disconnected that hose from the bulb and filled it with fuel as much as I could before connecting again. Is there a better way to get rid of that air pocket? Should there be no air at all before/in the filter or is it fine?

I also lost one of the hose clamps, I hate that type because they fall apart if unscrewed too much, will be replacing all of them with some other type.
Hi
According to the pump builder, a transparent hose is connected to the pump return out to fuel line pipe for observation. First, look to see if there is idle air. Next, rev it up and see if air bubbles occur or if there is an increase in air bubbles. If bubbles are present, first check the all hoses, fuel line pipes, tanks and priming pumps other than the pump. If there are no problems, the pump itself is the problem.
 

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1998 Nissan Patrol DX Wagon TD42+T
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97 Posts
Repainted the rear gutter on the gu after a slight cancer breakout.. also bolted my draw setup in.. put the stoppers in the draws..

Oh and I was sick of my fridge sliding arround so I bolted it down too.. problem is it still slides in and out of the car🤷‍♂️... must be broken 🤣

It's 11pm and I supposed to be camping tomorrow night.. still gota put rear seats in, finish putting the interior trims in.. replace all the barn door seals.. and finish fitting the diesel heater in my trailer.. 🤦‍♂️
 

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2,153 Posts
Slight oil leakage.
It feels like it is leaking from the mating surface of the front plate and front cover.
Checked with the specified torque, it feels loose. Why?
Tighten it down with the specified torque and see what happens.
Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Automotive tire Hood
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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53,907 Posts
Slight oil leakage.
It feels like it is leaking from the mating surface of the front plate and front cover.
Checked with the specified torque, it feels loose. Why?
Tighten it down with the specified torque and see what happens. View attachment 544310
Had a similar thing happen to me with my ZD30 when I replaced the head, not sure why but tightened bolts in front cover and later had a slight leak, checked and found a couple of the bolts weren't firm, gave them a slight tighten and all good, hard to say why, expansion/contraction? will never know now :unsure:.
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Removed pillar pod to once more check for something amiss with this crazy sporadic flicker in my EGT gauge, driving me insane for around a year, checked earths so many times it's not funny, did all this again, then ran a separate power wire straight the the gauge from the battery, still flickers when indicators are turned on, Grrrr.

Anyway while I had the pod off I fitted 3 new LED's into a small space beside each gauge to indicate WM injection stages, 2 green 1 red, upper green means WM firing from controller, middle green means manifold injection solenoid is open and the bottom one is red for empty WM tank, this will replace the 3 current LEDs that sit side by side beside the steering column. Ran the wiring down to where they are now so next task is disconnect the old ones and connect the new ones.

Now just to piss me off completely, when I put the pod back ib place and drove around to the front garages the damned EGT gauge behaved perfectly Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr! But, then again, tomorrow is another day.

Watch Land vehicle Vehicle Light Gauge
 

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1989 GQ TD42 wagon
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3,871 Posts

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nissan
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Measure the current injection characteristics of the pump I have assembled. After the engine has been overhauled, less fuel and boost pressure is needed to produce more power than before, so more fuel is not necessary. An experienced pump maker will tell me that it is not only the amount of fuel, but also the injection characteristics that are most important. For my turbo setup, I aim for around 70㏄ of standard injection on a Y61 TD42T and focus on pick-up at engine speeds of 1000-1400rpm. Practical engine revs up to 3500 rpm are sufficient; I can get 150 kmh in 5th gear, so I don't need more on Japanese highrways(limit almost 100kmh). The plunger is 11mm and the delivery valve is an early TD42T to match the mid-Y60 cam disc, the NA delivery valve can't control the fuel and all you get is black smoke, and the delivery is low when the accelerator is suddenly released. The nozzle operational opening pressure is set at 120 kg. The practical rev range is low, so if it is raised too high, it will cause a delay in injection, so it will not be raised any higher. Currently, the regulating valve is adjusted to raise the pump internal pressure and accelerate the advance characteristic at 1000-1400 rpm, but I will ask him to set the standard pump internal pressure and then adjust the advance characteristic in the current low rpm range. In addition to this, if I can reduce the fuel consumption to around 70㏄ in the 2400-2800 rpm range, it will probably be sufficient for my usage.


Engineering Gas Machine Auto part Motor vehicle
 
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