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Jazie, that rig looks in good condition. Like the rear gate. I see you are not using jacks stands. Get some and use them or I will bomb from above......
Ahh yes in good shape!
And yes I have 4 jackstands sitting in the corner of the shop I can clearly see while I am working on the rig [emoji17] . I will change that 4 u

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Yep jack stands are a good idea, especially with hydraulic jacks.

And yes I believe there is an oil seal right down near the diff centre. When I did my swivel hubs I didn't bother replacing them, I wasn't sure if they were accessible with the diff centre in place or not (didn't take the front diff cover off to check), and I didn't see any evidence of oil leaking past them.
 
Yep jack stands are a good idea, especially with hydraulic jacks.

And yes I believe there is an oil seal right down near the diff centre. When I did my swivel hubs I didn't bother replacing them, I wasn't sure if they were accessible with the diff centre in place or not (didn't take the front diff cover off to check), and I didn't see any evidence of oil leaking past them.
I have the diff cover off and it looks like a major to access the seal still. I have never taken a diff cover off before so perhaps I am slightly overwhelmed by the amount of steel and bolts stuffed under that cover!

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Rust

Put the old girl into the garage for the winter spruce up and saw small patch of rust beside the battery tray.
Investigated further, holy crap, rust galore, a lot of damage under the tray to the inner guard so decided to remove the tray.
Who ever invented spot welding should be strung up by their nuts, full day drilling them out and prying the tray off.
Has anyone done this job before?
Welding new metal over the guard to replace rusted one seems to be impossible as the inner guard is quite thin so I am thinking fiberglass. The battery tray is stuffed so I will have to see what will fit with a bit of modification.
What have you other guys done for this problem? all solutions appreciated.:rolleyes:
 

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also fitted a new 'old' airbox as the carb type cut-away pan I had was not faring well in the mud



got the cylindrical type filter box from a member on here, thanks JimmyFont















positioned it close to the passenger side of the Safari to facilitate the next project - home made snorkel


you don't need the second air box?


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Rust

Thanks for the reply Bruteutes, rust has eaten through the guard in 3 places so a bit of filler is not going to fix this.
My worry is that I need something that can hold the weight of a large battery and not having to replace all the inner guard not to mention shaping a large piece of steel.
Still thinking thick fiberglass, don't know if it will hold the weight though.
This problem must be uncommon i'm thinking.
 

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Received my front axle rebuild kit so tearing down and getting greasy. And there's a seal in that axle tube somewhere?


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seals are in diff, get it out then replace them. remember the position of left and right bearing brackets, otherwise it would be bad for the gears.


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Well not me but hopefully my mates workshop is close to completing their part of my super tourer build only 9 months in the making so far


Picture from August 2016 collecting on 23rd of this month for a 6-7 hour drive back to New England area [emoji12]


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Thanks for the reply Bruteutes, rust has eaten through the guard in 3 places so a bit of filler is not going to fix this.
My worry is that I need something that can hold the weight of a large battery and not having to replace all the inner guard not to mention shaping a large piece of steel.
Still thinking thick fiberglass, don't know if it will hold the weight though.
This problem must be uncommon i'm thinking.
This is a bracket I made for the 2nd battery...
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/1787609-post3152.html
 
Johan, good idea, I think I can copy your bracket and modify it to keep the battery secure on the inner guard.
It all depends on the integrity of the rebuild of the inner guard I think, but a great idea for a battery cage, much better than the ones on E-Bay.
 

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Easy to extend the mounting points to make it more secure. Batteries are heavy!!!
Zoom in to see the tray on the right hand side.


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clean it all up with wire brush thingy cut and weld in new plate. I would only cut where the rust is trying to keep the stand bends and as much as u can of the good steel left then uses johns battery tray be just as good as new don,t go glass won,t hold
 
Easy to extend the mounting points to make it more secure. Batteries are heavy!!!
Zoom in to see the tray on the right hand side.


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That looks similar to mine Johan.
Mine has angle welded onto it as brackets that mount just under the bonnet shut line, where the fender attaches to the body. I was a bit annoyed they don't line up with the factory bolt holes, but i digress...
 
hi guys,
good day,
I'm looking for sd33 engine diesel injection pump(diesel Kiki) manual or so sort of notes to check with adjustments and timing. if any one have them can you share or mail me.
Thank you
 
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