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Just spotted this, an MK Troopy!

I wonder if it is a legit Nissan made body, or a DIY job? It has wagon like features in the barn doors, side-rear windows, and little plastic grilles at the rear windows. But then it also has ute features like the steel wall behind front seats.

Anyway, looks cool to me, just a bit rusty!
 
Ads already gone... bugger.
Would like to know the chassis number of it...
Looked interesting from the thumbnail. Closest I've seen to an MQ/MK troopy is a 2 door canvas top LWB, and a 2 door LWB that appeared to have a high roof fibreglass canopy they were military vehicles though.
Nothing's impossible though , especially given that there were/are a number of 60 Patrols getting round with body styles with build counts in the single digits.
 
Decided to check and clean the fuel strainer and after seeing it was packed full of debris, I decided to replace it with a 100 micron inline fuel strainer to hopefully give it a bit more flow and make it easier clean out next time.



Not sure if its my imagination but it does feel faster now.
I know this is a bit old now but did you remove the filter from inside the Banjo fitting or clean it and put back in?
Also where did you get the inline filter
 
Checked my diff ration in preparation to order some Lokka's

jacked up the Fatt Girl and allowed one wheel to be off the ground, while the other was still on the ground, marked the wheel position so we could determine complete wheel revolutions.

Turned the wheel 10 times and counted the number of driveshaft revolutions
10 wheel revs = 23.125 driveshaft revolutions

the last pic shows the position of the driveshaft after 10 turns of the wheel.
It was 23 full turns of the driveshaft and then landed halfway between a start point and 1/4 turn, so I calculated it as 1/8 of a turn

multiply by 2 (for both wheels) still not 100% sure why, but that is how it was done on YouTube vids = 46.25
Divide by 10 to get 1 wheel rotation = 4.625

so 1 wheel rev = 4.625 drive shaft revolutions

so I can confirm I have a H233 diff at the rear
 

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Have had a noisy thrust bearing for a while and recently it really shat itself making horrendous noise when the clutch was pushed in. So pulled the box and new thrust bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch while I was in there. Was nervous about the weight of it having read up on it so I grabbed a hydraulic table from work to sit the transmission and transfer case on. Worked quite good to be able to support the transmission then just slide it backwards and work on the clutch etc. When installing it just slid the table close enough to get the transmission sitting on the mounts, supported the front end of the transmission with a jack, and slid the table out, then used two jacks for final positioning. Not a good picture but you get the idea. Worked alright. :D
 

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multiply by 2 (for both wheels) still not 100% sure why, but that is how it was done on YouTube vids = 46.25
Because you have one wheel fixed, it is spinning the diff gears through the spider gears (because open diff), and that changes things.

so I can confirm I have a H233 diff at the rear
I'm afraid the diff ratio alone is not conclusive evidence. You have a banjo style diff though, so you definitely don't have C200 rear. And eye-balling it, it looks more the size of H233, rather than H260. So you're probably right ;) You should be able to count the number of bolts that hold the third-member to the housing to confirm, see Diff Info | MQ-Patrol.com


Also, I believe the Lokka only fit into factory open diff centers, not LSD centers. Are you sure yours isn't LSD?!
 
Finally found an old pic of it.
Was my first car.
84 MK shorty with the mighty L28 petty.
Ok so it had 2 and third time was a build from first 2 engines combined.

Cooked first one warping head.
Got 2md engine given to me. Oil pump was stuffed and seized the block.
With help from old guy over road we built ine engine out of the 2.

Used 30ltr per 100km. Most prob easy couple ltrs of oil in same distance.
Blew fuel and oil out of exhaust

Was filled with rust. Front bidy mount was barely attached haha. Colour at least hid the rust.

But was bloody fun car and taught me alot.
Its what got me started working on my own cars.


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
Because you have one wheel fixed, it is spinning the diff gears through the spider gears (because open diff), and that changes things.
Yea i figured it had something to do with that one wheel fixed, but I'm comfortable at this time with your "and that changes things" explanation until I dig further

I'm afraid the diff ratio alone is not conclusive evidence. You have a banjo style diff though, so you definitely don't have C200 rear. And eye-balling it, it looks more the size of H233, rather than H260. So you're probably right ;) You should be able to count the number of bolts that hold the third-member to the housing to confirm, see Diff Info | MQ-Patrol.com
many thanks for that. I really want to make sure i order the right thing. I was looking at that page and was wondering if those bolts were inside on the ring gear, but after your confirmation that it was on the outside of the 3rd member, I went under and checked them.

I can confirm that there are 9 x 12mm bolts, so as per that page, the calculation I did and your assessment of the pics I conclude that I do in fact have the H233 (aka H233B v1) diff
one more pic attached

So the items circled in red on Lokka's online wizzard is what I intend to buy

Also, I believe the Lokka only fit into factory open diff centers, not LSD centers. Are you sure yours isn't LSD?!
positive from my experiences offroad that I dont have LSD, only one wheel would spin when the other is jammed
 

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Custom front bumper

bumper built from 4" C channel steel and the brackets\mounts 1/4" steel plate.
Got the plate in a friends backyard
had to remove the front panel with the turn signals to fit it. plan was to put winch as far inside as possible, to minimize the front extension of the bumper.
so I had to custom fab some new panels to fit the turn signals. I cut them outta sheet metal and did a DIY install
made some anchor points on the front bumper as well for recovery purposes
 

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Winch install on the custom front bumper
Smittybilt 97495 XRC Winch - 9500 lb. Load Capacity
had to cut the front grill a bit to allow for install. I wanted to keep the front extension minimal on the front bumper, to minimize the affect on my approach angles, so I used some of the space behind the grill.
 

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hi all,
need some info regarding lifting up,
My front and rear both with leaf spring, Feels I need 2" lift, thinking of extending the shackles, but have dought whether my stability will be goes off, Can any one share some info regarding lifting up , or can you guys share some photos which you guys have done...….
 
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