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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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341 Posts
Put the first part of the new suspension under the car. Got this solid drag link second hand for $200, and got new extended shackles all around on the way. All superior, of course. What else do you get when you have a patrol? :LOL:

Out with the old:
Wood Cross Gas Religious item Artifact


In with the new:
Wood Musical instrument Gas Road surface Auto part
Wheel Tire Car Automotive tire Vehicle


That last photo also shows how badly I need a spring reset, the driver's side is sagged a fair bit compared to the passenger.
I did find out that I have parabolic springs front and rear though, still a rough ride.
 

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I Have Imaginary Friends
Patrol Hybrid.
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19,388 Posts
You can reset your springs yourself at home, never done it myself, I remember my dad doing them. He heated them in the sun, they were too hot for him to handle without gauntlets. He didn’t have an anvil, just a big stump of red gum.
 
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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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Finally got around to vacuuming the interior out today since the Fraser trip (bit late I know, I got scared away from the job by how much sand was everywhere, so I just left it ), now I’m going to go around and sikaflex all the little drill holes in the floor that seem to be there for no reason, so I can safely put the sound deadening underlay and carpet back in without fearing that if I pull it back it will be full of water. I’d rather have less chance of the water getting in, and no way for it to get out (I can soak it up), then have drain holes in the floor that just let all the water in for the carpet to soak up.



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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,384 Posts
Nissan used the steering setup that they did for good reason. Back in the day, handling of the MQ was praised and compared to Range Rover and IFS family sedans.
Not so much 60 series/SFA Hilux etc which liked to piss off in every other direction around corners or on corrugations.
However 40ish years and however many hundred thousand kays, lift kits etc take its toll, so with the upgrade may result in a little more bump steer but the steering will feel much more direct. Also solid single piece drag link is much stronger than factory stuff.

Also, yes silicone on unused holes is a good idea. MQ/MK/GQ cabs aren't exactly waterproof at the best of times, and water will find a way in much easier than out.
 

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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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883 Posts
Put the first part of the new suspension under the car. Got this solid drag link second hand for $200, and got new extended shackles all around on the way. All superior, of course. What else do you get when you have a patrol? :LOL:

Out with the old:
View attachment 538760

In with the new:

That last photo also shows how badly I need a spring reset, the driver's side is sagged a fair bit compared to the passenger.
I did find out that I have parabolic springs front and rear though, still a rough ride.


Anybody know the ADR rules for high steer arm bolt onto the top of the knuckles? Great for getting rid of the bump steer after a single link conversion as above.
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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341 Posts
So after driving it around for a while with the single drag link, as has been mentioned it does have some bump steer, but honestly it’s not an issue for me, I’m quite happy to deal with it over speed bumps because the high speed driving is so much better than before. It doesn’t sway all over the highway like it used to, and as James said, the steering is much more direct. Heaps less correction is required on straights, it’s just awesome. Someone mentioned in another thread that body roll around corners will obviously cause the same steering effect as bumps, but I haven’t noticed it, I think the brain just adapts and adjusts around corners. Could be wrong though


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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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A day late, but on Saturday I went down to meet @Johan Safari, and use his big ol' spring resetting setup he's got. Basically a 30 ton bottle jack that the leaf sits on, and is pressed against 2 parallel metal bars about 25-30 cm apart, bending it past it's maximum spring range, into the 'permanently bent' range, meaning with a bit of time and patience, the leafs can be reset to have a bit larger arc to them.
So I gained a bit of lift out of it, and I also took out one of the rear leafs at the same time. My rear leaf setup was 3 full-length leafs and one half-length helper leaf, we took out the helper and now it's just 3 long leafs with a greater arc since the reset.
Sits at a better level now, front flex hasn't changed as it always could hit bump stop and full shock extension no worries, but the rear has gained both up and down travel. It never used to hit the bump stop on compression as the spring rate was too stiff with the helper leaf, and it never used to extend fully as the spring had a smaller arc, and so resisted down-travel more. Now it hits the bump stop on compression, and maxes out the stock-length shackle on extension, so when I get my superior +2" shackles it should reach full shock extension as well.
Photos of the resetting:
Already taken a leaf out of the rears, and partially reset 1 in this photo, and I'm comparing the reset to the sagged one
Shorts Automotive tire Wood Floor Flooring

Bending the leaf with Johan's machine, just a 30 tonne jack bending sections of leaf in between 2 strong points
Automotive tire Asphalt Artisan Gas Engineering

And the final result, back at home after the springs have settled slightly.
Automotive side marker light Automotive parking light Wheel Tire Car

I'll post on the 'show us ya flex' page comparison photos of before and after the reset and rear leaf remove.
 

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Registered
1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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341 Posts

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Registered
1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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341 Posts
Measured the difference in pinion length between the h260 and h233 and realised I either need to get my tailshaft modified again to suit it (literally just got it shortened a few months ago to suit the engine swap since the donor had a 233 and the wagon has a 260, now it needs to be lengthened again to suit the Ute diff), or find a factory 5 speed lwb h233 tailshaft. Anyone got one for sale?


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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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11,384 Posts

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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11,384 Posts
Measured the difference in pinion length between the h260 and h233 and realised I either need to get my tailshaft modified again to suit it (literally just got it shortened a few months ago to suit the engine swap since the donor had a 233 and the wagon has a 260, now it needs to be lengthened again to suit the Ute diff), or find a factory 5 speed lwb h233 tailshaft. Anyone got one for sale?


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Call them up and see if they still have the offcut in the scrap bin lol.

Also, you'll want a shaft from a diesel, L28s had different length shafts again due to the remote transfer.
 

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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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341 Posts
Call them up and see if they still have the offcut in the scrap bin lol.

Also, you'll want a shaft from a diesel, L28s had different length shafts again due to the remote transfer.
I doubt they still have the offcut, but I reckon they could pretty easily extend it again considering how well they did shortening it.
And yeah, I was thinking about how many different tailshafts nissan would have had to make over the course of the MQ/MK, and it's something like 14 different tailshafts front and rear, so roughly 28 different tailshafts altogether for one vehicle. That's accounting for LWB/SWB, (p40,sd33)/l28, 4/5spd, and h233/h260. Seems crazy tbh.
Anyway yeah, I'll need one for a 5spd diesel or p40 (do the gearboxes sit in the same spot on the chassis? I know they're interchangeable between the 2 motors so I assumed they'd have the same chassis mounts) LWB with a h233. I would be good to get another one instead of modifying my existing one because at least then I have one for each diff and can swap easily if need be.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
Joined
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11,384 Posts
I doubt they still have the offcut, but I reckon they could pretty easily extend it again considering how well they did shortening it.
And yeah, I was thinking about how many different tailshafts nissan would have had to make over the course of the MQ/MK, and it's something like 14 different tailshafts front and rear, so roughly 28 different tailshafts altogether for one vehicle. That's accounting for LWB/SWB, (p40,sd33)/l28, 4/5spd, and h233/h260. Seems crazy tbh.
Anyway yeah, I'll need one for a 5spd diesel or p40 (do the gearboxes sit in the same spot on the chassis? I know they're interchangeable between the 2 motors so I assumed they'd have the same chassis mounts) LWB with a h233. I would be good to get another one instead of modifying my existing one because at least then I have one for each diff and can swap easily if need be.
Yeah i was joking lol, don't think an MQ drive shaft offcut will make it into the "this might come in handy" pile.

Yeah 14 probably would be about right. I think SD and P40 used the same shafts from memory, but between those, the L28, LWB and SWB, 4&5 speed, C200, H233 and H260 rear diff and L28 auto there would have been a fair few combinations.
 
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