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1985 SD33T MK LWB Wagon
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Yeah i was joking lol, don't think an MQ drive shaft offcut will make it into the "this might come in handy" pile.

Yeah 14 probably would be about right. I think SD and P40 used the same shafts from memory, but between those, the L28, LWB and SWB, 4&5 speed, C200, H233 and H260 rear diff and L28 auto there would have been a fair few combinations.
Since I found that metal in the 233 diff I've resigned to using the H260, better LSD I suppose.
Anyway, Dad has an old GU Ute 260 3rd member (the 35 spline one) in 4.375 gears, and a wagon LSD (37 spline), so I was going to remove my MK 3rd and use the GU one in the MK housing, swapping the LSD's so it's a 37 spline, but it seems like the actual hole for the carrier to sit in is smaller in the MK housing by 1mm or so, so it only just doesn't fit. That means I need to take the gears off the ute diff and put them on mine, which is more effort for the diff guy, more money for me, and I don't have a spare 4.11 diff if I ever want it back.
Do you know if the hole in the housing that the carrier sits in is slightly smaller on the MK diff than the GU one?

Edit: oh yeah, and remember how you hadn't heard of an l28 with a H260? Well there's white chalk or paint writing on the back of the housing, so it probably came from a wrecker to go with the 351.
 

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Since I found that metal in the 233 diff I've resigned to using the H260, better LSD I suppose.
Anyway, Dad has an old GU Ute 260 3rd member (the 35 spline one) in 4.375 gears, and a wagon LSD (37 spline), so I was going to remove my MK 3rd and use the GU one in the MK housing, swapping the LSD's so it's a 37 spline, but it seems like the actual hole for the carrier to sit in is smaller in the MK housing by 1mm or so, so it only just doesn't fit. That means I need to take the gears off the ute diff and put them on mine, which is more effort for the diff guy, more money for me, and I don't have a spare 4.11 diff if I ever want it back.
Do you know if the hole in the housing that the carrier sits in is slightly smaller on the MK diff than the GU one?

Edit: oh yeah, and remember how you hadn't heard of an l28 with a H260? Well there's white chalk or paint writing on the back of the housing, so it probably came from a wrecker to go with the 351.
You won't regret choosing the H260, mine has over 410,000k on it and a lot of that was hard work, never been touched but I service it regularly and use the recommended oil in it (no additives). Just starting to hear a very slight whine from the wheel bearings when cruising, will get a few more K's out of it I reckon ;).
 

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You won't regret choosing the H260, mine has over 410,000k on it and a lot of that was hard work, never been touched but I service it regularly and use the recommended oil in it (no additives). Just starting to hear a very slight whine from the wheel bearings when cruising, will get a few more K's out of it I reckon ;).
Yeah I definetly won't hear a whine out of anything while cruising until it blows up I reckon, 5th gear already has a good whine to it so and the ambient noise in the car is so loud I don't think I'd be able to hear a wheel bearing at any stage.

Although in saying that, as I mentioned in my 233 vs 260 info thread, the bearings are the same on the MQ/MK diffs, and both of mine feel a bit gritty, but the guy I spoke to about the re-gear said he would look at them, but absolutely would not touch them. So by the sounds of it they're a pain to change, and he told me to just stuff them with grease, which I've done, so we'll so how long that lasts :rolleyes:

Also I probably couldn't tell the difference between bearing whine and tyre noise anyway, the low tread A/T's don't have much left but they make a little noise at highway speeds.
 

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Update: as it turns out, the GU H260 carrier slips right into the MK housing, I thought it was slightly bigger but as it turns out if you wiggle something enough it might just slip right in.
I was about to give up and it just went 'clunk', I thought it had just re-angled itself (the bit in the air being somewhere else around the circle), but I looked and it had seated itself nicely, now I'm absolutely over the moon because it means I can keep my 4.11 h260 complete as a spare and have a GU 4.375 H260 as my current diff (the GU one is slightly different visually, thicker crownwheel, slightly longer LSD, and it's probably built better anyway).
I'll probably just end up using bolt sleeves to compensate the bigger bolt holes in the GU carrier, if I ever remove it again then I'll re-drill and tap the housing for bigger bolts.
 

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Anyone else’s MQ floor pans become… “slightly” wet when it rains?









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I had a land rover that did that, didn’t have flash carpets though.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Hopefully its just the windscreen seal or a build up of crap. With age they start to shrink and go hard, that can let water in.
The wells that the bonnet hinges sit in can fill with crap, blocking the little drain holes, likewise with the drain points in the cabin intake plenum. Some compressed air should clean them out, but if its really bad, taking the front 1/4 panels off gives a bit of access to clean from the other side.

There can also be rust issues, and given access to a lot of places that water can enter, it won't be fun to fix. So hopefully its not that.
 
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Hopefully its just the windscreen seal or a build up of crap. With age they start to shrink and go hard, that can let water in.
The wells that the bonnet hinges sit in can fill with crap, blocking the little drain holes, likewise with the drain points in the cabin intake plenum. Some compressed air should clean them out, but if its really bad, taking the front 1/4 panels off gives a bit of access to clean from the other side.

There can also be rust issues, and given access to a lot of places that water can enter, it won't be fun to fix. So hopefully its not that.
Pretty sure it's not the windscreen seal, it looks fairly new, like it's been replaced at some point (probably like half the car), and there's little bits of sealant all around it that've obviously either been used to seal it better or have leaked out when the rubber was installed. Or as you say it could be original and could've just shrunk, I don't know.

Back when we were originally doing the conversion and had the bonnet and cowl panel off I cleaned out the hinge wells and the intake plenum with compressed air as you said, but the guards have had panel glue or something put on the seams, so the guards and indicator panel under the grille are all 1 piece, and I can't remove them unless I somehow remove the glue. I'd like to do that at some point, but that point isn't now unless there's an easy way.

I honestly don't think it's rust, the entire underside of the cab has had a rustproofing and/or sound deadening coat sprayed on by the looks of it, and as you know the rest of the cab is extremely solid. in saying that, I've never been able to look in behind the guards since I can't easily remove them, so I don't know what's behind there.

I just hope it doesn't look like the ute:
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I mean at least it has a rusted out floor that lets all the water out! :ROFLMAO:
 

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Fresh in from Nice Products today

View attachment 539974
I do kind of envy you guys with tailgates, because they're different, and it makes it easy to tell it's not a GQ for all the people who think the GQ is the first patrol ever and none other exists.
In saying that, the barn doors are different and uncommon for an MQ!
So not all bad.
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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Pretty sure it's not the windscreen seal, it looks fairly new, like it's been replaced at some point (probably like half the car), and there's little bits of sealant all around it that've obviously either been used to seal it better or have leaked out when the rubber was installed. Or as you say it could be original and could've just shrunk, I don't know.

Back when we were originally doing the conversion and had the bonnet and cowl panel off I cleaned out the hinge wells and the intake plenum with compressed air as you said, but the guards have had panel glue or something put on the seams, so the guards and indicator panel under the grille are all 1 piece, and I can't remove them unless I somehow remove the glue. I'd like to do that at some point, but that point isn't now unless there's an easy way.

I honestly don't think it's rust, the entire underside of the cab has had a rustproofing and/or sound deadening coat sprayed on by the looks of it, and as you know the rest of the cab is extremely solid. in saying that, I've never been able to look in behind the guards since I can't easily remove them, so I don't know what's behind there.

I just hope it doesn't look like the ute:
View attachment 539866
View attachment 539867
I mean at least it has a rusted out floor that lets all the water out! :ROFLMAO:
My white shorty is rusting in a similar place to your ute, right about where 48,716 panels join.
I "temporarily fixed" it with half a cartridge of silicone under the dash.

Silicone around the windscreen is interesting, could be from installation, but that is usually applied to the inner lip. Its a common way of attempting to fix a leak on old, hard, degraded windscreen rubbers though.

That sealant between the inner and outer fenders, and where the lower valance under the grille meets the fender panels is probably factory stuff. Its presumably to help keep moisture out of the joins.
I usually use a sharp razor blade to cut the sealant between the lower valance and outer fender panel, fishing line or something would probably work too. Ditto with the join between outer fender panel and inner fender, or just wiggle that until the join breaks.

But if its unlikely that rust is there, don't bother taking them off yet. I'd first try sticking your head under the dash while you have someone spraying the lower windscreen/cowl area with a hose to try and determine exactly where the leak is.
 

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My white shorty is rusting in a similar place to your ute, right about where 48,716 panels join.
I "temporarily fixed" it with half a cartridge of silicone under the dash.

Silicone around the windscreen is interesting, could be from installation, but that is usually applied to the inner lip. Its a common way of attempting to fix a leak on old, hard, degraded windscreen rubbers though.

That sealant between the inner and outer fenders, and where the lower valance under the grille meets the fender panels is probably factory stuff. Its presumably to help keep moisture out of the joins.
I usually use a sharp razor blade to cut the sealant between the lower valance and outer fender panel, fishing line or something would probably work too. Ditto with the join between outer fender panel and inner fender, or just wiggle that until the join breaks.

But if its unlikely that rust is there, don't bother taking them off yet. I'd first try sticking your head under the dash while you have someone spraying the lower windscreen/cowl area with a hose to try and determine exactly where the leak is.
In here boys:



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Dangit thought I was done with the welder.....
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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From what I can tell there’s no rust in the cowl panel, but I’ll have to have a better look at the spot mentioned to make sure


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Went and picked up another piece of the puzzle today


Nice big Aeroflow front-mount intercooler. Almost brand new, the guy I bought it off tried to fit it to his xr6t falcon, but it didn’t fit, and I got it for $100 because of the scratches that ensued.
Should be pretty good I reckon


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Can't see them very well in the 1 dark photo I took last night, but mmmmm, the shackles look good...
More importantly though they should function even better than they look.
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I'll get better photos later today.
 

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So one of my workmates (who owns a D22 navara with a ZD30) and I did a... "scientific comparison"... of his acceleration vs mine, with both of us thinking that the ZD on 32's (not sure of the diff ratio but forums say 4.375) would absolutely blow the SD on 33's and 4.11 diffs out of the water, especially given his car probably weighs heaps less than mine, has a better intake, is a much newer and likely more powerful engine etc.

But.
he couldn't keep up with me :p
So I'm not sure if his ZD is just underpowered for some reason, or if the extra fuelling that's going into my SD means even with the tiny stock exhaust, bad intake, and terrible gearing, it's actually that much better.

Now I'm really curious to run it up on a dyno to see what figures it's making before I do anything to it, since it seems to go so well anyway.
 

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Made up the first of the new intake piping. It's only temporary, and serves as a template for when I do the proper pipework so I can get it right first time.
Basically, with a couple of silicon bends and a never used bit of 3" exhaust pipe dad had laying around, I connected the pre-filter as my air filter and it's now 3" up until the turbo. Prior to this I was only using the big round air filter that sits on top of the motor, and using the stock cast alloy piece that goes from that to the turbo, that's 2" at best. Also inactive member Landy said that the top mounted airbox is greatly affected by heat soak, so I'll see if the pre-filter is any better.
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It doesn't look the greatest at the moment, but it'll all look better once the intercooler is in and there's piping snaking around for that too. Also once it's not all made of mild steel.
 
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