Let’s use the words back on he road looselyGlad to see the old girl is still with ya, and back on the road.
Aside from a bit of paint fade and head gasket, it seemed like a gem last time I saw it.

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Let’s use the words back on he road looselyGlad to see the old girl is still with ya, and back on the road.
Aside from a bit of paint fade and head gasket, it seemed like a gem last time I saw it.
Having just done a bit of thin gauge stick welding aftr years away from it I remembered a good stance helps, I also wrap the cable once around my wrist.Shackle mount welded (description in the build thread), I think I’ve made dad weld more in the last couple months than he’s done in years lol.
Good looking welds, who needs a mig?
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I’m going to learn how to do this at some point so I can fabricate stuff a bit more independently.
Anyway pretty happy since both mounts are a bit stronger than they were from factory, and they’ve both got new metal bushes in them.
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No worries.@james008 Thanks for the great info!
this should be added to the #MQ/MK Bible thread!
Which one is common for busting through when lift kits are installed?
Is it the one with the little metal cup in front of the back wheel? (Red highlight in pic)
I am too scared to reconnect my heater... in case it leaks. Any idea where one can get an aftermarket that more or less fits?Finally hooked up the heater so it's not freezing during the winter, and I can finally hopefully demist the windscreen properly.
The heater hoses came from the red ute that I sold, and the heater core in that must've leaked because both hoses had a metal ball lodged in to stop coolant flow. Just had to cut the ends off with the obstruction and hook them up, so they're a bit shorter than they should be but they work. My aftermarket temp gauge is also hooked into a heater hose so hopefully even with the heater closed there might just be enough water seeping past the valve that it's still fairly accurate. I only really need the gauge to see when it's warmed up, I use oil pressure to see that as well, because it stays cool even on long hills and on the beach. If my thermostat (new a couple months ago) ever sticks there should be enough pressure on the heater lines to get the gauge sensing hotter temps, or it just needs to happen when I've got the heater open.
Nice black frame. One day mine will also look like that. I should also start planning the removal of the original old inline low pressure pumps now that it's all EFI. Not doing much anymore. Will probably do it when I fit the long range tank at the back with the new EFI pump inside it.Can you post a pic of the hoses from the core end please?
I got one of those engine guard gauges so I wouldn't need a second temp sender.
Today I put the fuel pump stuff and brake centre (proportioning) valve back on the chassis.
View attachment 544160
Not sure where you can get an aftermarket one, but I've got a spare that I can fit to mine and test if you want? It came in the parts box that came with the wagon when I bought it.I am too scared to reconnect my heater... in case it leaks. Any idea where one can get an aftermarket that more or less fits?
I can take photos yes, where exactly do you want photos from? The way I interpret that is take a photo of how they connect to the outside of the heater core on the engine bay side of the firewall.Can you post a pic of the hoses from the core end please?
I got one of those engine guard gauges so I wouldn't need a second temp sender.
Today I put the fuel pump stuff and brake centre (proportioning) valve back on the chassis.
View attachment 544160
Yes, I only have floppy old straight hose and I'm fitting headers today.The way I interpret that is take a photo of how they connect to the outside of the heater core on the engine bay side of the firewall.