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The Prodigal Child Has Returned
nissan
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Glad to see the old girl is still with ya, and back on the road.

Aside from a bit of paint fade and head gasket, it seemed like a gem last time I saw it.
Let’s use the words back on he road loosely . Send her in for a roadworthy, then I’ll do the head gasket, a new water pump , manifold gasket and 3 exhaust that’s behind the shed . Was nice to drive it around.


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1985 SD33Ti MK LWB Wagon
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463 Posts
So I don’t know why I said a few months ago that I had parabolic springs, I think it was because I found out they were thicker at some points and thinner at others, but anyway, they’re not, as I’ve realised can be guessed just by looking at them

But today while powerwashing them in preparation for new bushes I found this:

Not anything groundbreaking by any means, I just thought it was cool that after 37 years of being in just about the most exposed spot on the car there’s still a Nissan logo somewhere there. Now I’m debating whether I give the leaves a new coat of paint or leave them as is…


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1985 SD33Ti MK LWB Wagon
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Man it’s tight getting the 2 intercooler bends at the turbo and intake around each other:

I hope they’re ok to be touching a bit, since they’re both mounted to the engine I don’t think they should have movement/wear from rubbing.


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1985 SD33Ti MK LWB Wagon
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Shackle mount welded (description in the build thread), I think I’ve made dad weld more in the last couple months than he’s done in years lol.

Good looking welds, who needs a mig?



I’m going to learn how to do this at some point so I can fabricate stuff a bit more independently.
Anyway pretty happy since both mounts are a bit stronger than they were from factory, and they’ve both got new metal bushes in them.


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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Shackle mount welded (description in the build thread), I think I’ve made dad weld more in the last couple months than he’s done in years lol.

Good looking welds, who needs a mig?



I’m going to learn how to do this at some point so I can fabricate stuff a bit more independently.
Anyway pretty happy since both mounts are a bit stronger than they were from factory, and they’ve both got new metal bushes in them.


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Having just done a bit of thin gauge stick welding aftr years away from it I remembered a good stance helps, I also wrap the cable once around my wrist.
 

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1985 SD33Ti MK LWB Wagon
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463 Posts
Sooo...
I accidentally put an intercooler on my SD33T...
Hood Automotive air manifold Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior


In all seriousness, those bits of stainless have to be the best looking pieces on the whole car. I'll explain more in the build thread tomorrow :)
 

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Rust is just natural weight reduction.
1986 SD33T SWB
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11,418 Posts
@james008 Thanks for the great info!
this should be added to the #MQ/MK Bible thread!

Which one is common for busting through when lift kits are installed?
Is it the one with the little metal cup in front of the back wheel? (Red highlight in pic)
No worries.
I guess the breakdown I gave wasn't as bad as I remembered when ordering, but I think I ended up getting parts over 4 orders from 2 different suppliers due to parts availability, comparison between garbage genuine and aftermarket parts diagrams, some some crap 'recommended' replacement fitment parts from amayama and partsouq.
Also P/N 95157-C6000 (95180N in diagram) should be x1 unit, not 2 as I initially said.

I can't remember one that breaks, I thought it was just the rear captive bolts breaking their welds.
I would say that its the body mount closest to a rust prone area.... but that is all of them.
 
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I Have Imaginary Friends
Patrol Hybrid.
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Gotta stop talking to yourself, people will think that you are crazy. 🤔😉🤣🤣
 
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1985 SD33Ti MK LWB Wagon
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Not much, drove it around the Sunshine Coast on errands for a mate. He's got an 06 Rav4 that's going to be a light beach/camping vehicle, so we're having a bit of fun and installing a 1" lift and 31" tires on it to get the belly out of the sand. So far we've got the rear all buttoned up, new springs and shocks, but man oh man the shocks on the 3rd gen rav's are a pain to get out. The top bolt is hidden beside the upper control arm bolt, and the only easy(ish) way to get it out is to take both the upper and lower control arms off!

The struts for the front are being assembled at Pedders at the moment, hopefully tomorrow we'll have the car back on the ground looking an inch taller! Doesn't sound like much but when you consider how low they are factory proportionally it'll look like a 2" on a GU.

Some might say it's a waste of time but it's certainly fun. The Rav is surprisingly good on sand in it's current form, we took it out for a night of beach camping a while ago and completely stock on pretty old tires it just powered through easily. There wasn't a moment of thinking we'd get stuck, closest was when the belly would drag when we were in bigger vehicles wheel tracks, but it seemed pretty happy out there.

Either way it'll look pretty cool slightly taller and on the 31's, with the yellow coils underneath. Just something a bit different, definitely won't be a rocks car, as soon as it gets crossed up a bit it's got no hope, but him being someone not too familiar with mechanical work it's all pretty exciting. He'll likely get BFG all-terrains and new 15 or 16 inch rims.
 

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1985 SD33Ti MK LWB Wagon
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Finally hooked up the heater so it's not freezing during the winter, and I can finally hopefully demist the windscreen properly.
The heater hoses came from the red ute that I sold, and the heater core in that must've leaked because both hoses had a metal ball lodged in to stop coolant flow. Just had to cut the ends off with the obstruction and hook them up, so they're a bit shorter than they should be but they work. My aftermarket temp gauge is also hooked into a heater hose so hopefully even with the heater closed there might just be enough water seeping past the valve that it's still fairly accurate. I only really need the gauge to see when it's warmed up, I use oil pressure to see that as well, because it stays cool even on long hills and on the beach. If my thermostat (new a couple months ago) ever sticks there should be enough pressure on the heater lines to get the gauge sensing hotter temps, or it just needs to happen when I've got the heater open.
 

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Can you post a pic of the hoses from the core end please?
I got one of those engine guard gauges so I wouldn't need a second temp sender.

Today I put the fuel pump stuff and brake centre (proportioning) valve back on the chassis.

Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle
 

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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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909 Posts
Finally hooked up the heater so it's not freezing during the winter, and I can finally hopefully demist the windscreen properly.
The heater hoses came from the red ute that I sold, and the heater core in that must've leaked because both hoses had a metal ball lodged in to stop coolant flow. Just had to cut the ends off with the obstruction and hook them up, so they're a bit shorter than they should be but they work. My aftermarket temp gauge is also hooked into a heater hose so hopefully even with the heater closed there might just be enough water seeping past the valve that it's still fairly accurate. I only really need the gauge to see when it's warmed up, I use oil pressure to see that as well, because it stays cool even on long hills and on the beach. If my thermostat (new a couple months ago) ever sticks there should be enough pressure on the heater lines to get the gauge sensing hotter temps, or it just needs to happen when I've got the heater open.
I am too scared to reconnect my heater... in case it leaks. Any idea where one can get an aftermarket that more or less fits?
 
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Can you post a pic of the hoses from the core end please?
I got one of those engine guard gauges so I wouldn't need a second temp sender.

Today I put the fuel pump stuff and brake centre (proportioning) valve back on the chassis.

View attachment 544160
Nice black frame. One day mine will also look like that. I should also start planning the removal of the original old inline low pressure pumps now that it's all EFI. Not doing much anymore. Will probably do it when I fit the long range tank at the back with the new EFI pump inside it.
 
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1985 SD33Ti MK LWB Wagon
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I am too scared to reconnect my heater... in case it leaks. Any idea where one can get an aftermarket that more or less fits?
Not sure where you can get an aftermarket one, but I've got a spare that I can fit to mine and test if you want? It came in the parts box that came with the wagon when I bought it.

Also pleeeeeeas tell me where you've found a long range tank for these lol, I want one badly.

Can you post a pic of the hoses from the core end please?
I got one of those engine guard gauges so I wouldn't need a second temp sender.

Today I put the fuel pump stuff and brake centre (proportioning) valve back on the chassis.

View attachment 544160
I can take photos yes, where exactly do you want photos from? The way I interpret that is take a photo of how they connect to the outside of the heater core on the engine bay side of the firewall.
 
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