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Datsun Patrol MQ 1982 RB25DE NEO
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920 Posts
Not sure where you can get an aftermarket one, but I've got a spare that I can fit to mine and test if you want? It came in the parts box that came with the wagon when I bought it.

Also pleeeeeeas tell me where you've found a long range tank for these lol, I want one badly.
Sure I am very interested in that core. Mine is super rusty...

Fuel Tanks – 4WD Systems (just add the make and model in the search)
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MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
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724 Posts
Fitted a brand new alternator to the SD yesterday, it seems to have fixed all the oil leaks I had off the old one, and charges soo much better. It's made for a TD42, and much cheaper than the SD33 options. For anyone curious you can modify the factory alternator bracket to accept a TD42 alternator (my build thread, post #18), then you just need to grind a pressed sleeve flat on the alternator that pokes out.

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My old TD alternator was dying, it was only a second hand unit, but the final straw was after I put chalk on the belt to quieten it while the car was running, and dusted the alternator with chalk by accident. I don't know if it got into the regulator or what, but the trigger for it to start charging wouldn't happen until above 2200 rpm, which I don't even reach until after the engine and oil are warmed up. Once it started charging it would charge even at idle, but it wouldn't start until it initially got over that 2200. On top of that as soon as it had any draw the voltage would drop significantly, with the car idling and the headlights on it was down near 11v, and any other accessories would decrease it further.

This new one triggers charging once it initially reaches about 850rpm, much much better, and can charge well even at idle with the headlights on, and doesn't leak oil from the vac pump. Very happy camper.

I also FINALLY plumbed up the PCV valve into the intake, so hopefully since there's less pressure in the block and it's sucking out the combustion gasses that make it past the rings it'll both leak less oil (rear main is pretty bad, rocker cover gasket may need attention, sump gasket may be bad, head gasket that won't be affected by the PCV vaccum needs changing), and also keep the oil less black for longer. I know diesel oil, especially in old diesels, goes black very quickly due to the extra carbon that diesel produces when it burns, but this'll at least help. Also I can comfortably wash the engine bay now without fearing water going straight into the PCV.
Pretty simple method of hooking it up, got a 1/2" hose joiner barb and some 1/2" hose, drilled a hole in the silicon bend coming out of my airbox thats smaller than the barb, and pressed it in. Shouldn't leak given it's pretty tight and under vaccum, and is an easy solution until I get my pre-turbo piping made out of stainless and get a barb welded in. If I get scared that it's leaking I'll just sikaflex it in there, but for now it seems pretty good.
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MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
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724 Posts
So, on the long trip from SE Qld to mid-West Vic, about exactly halfway, near Gilgandra, the Ute decided to blow 2 teeth off the input shaft gear, for no reason at all. Wasn't rowing through the gears or being rough on the old girl, just cruising up a light grade in 5th under a constant load and all of a sudden the gearbox starts sounding like a jackhammer. Not good. We initially hoped it was just a bearing but after getting it trucked the rest of the way down and pulling the gearbox we found teeth missing off the gear.
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We then went and found a 4 speed box to rob the input shaft out of, but found that the input shaft and layshaft gears are a different size in that box than our 5 speed. So hopefully tomorrow, or at least sometime this week, I'm going to take Dad's GU on a day-trip up to Bendigo and back, because there's a 5 speed gearbox for sale up there.

The same guy selling the 5 speed is also selling an aftermarket secondary fuel tank which I'm going to get for myself, so I can keep more fuel in the wagon, as the 83ish litres that they carry from factory just isn't much when you're out travelling, and having more fuel will be very helpful. It's being sold with a filler neck to suit, as well as the switching solenoid to start using fuel from the second tank instead of the primary one in the back.
It works differently to the GU system apparently, instead of having a sub that pumps fuel back into the main to be used, you can switch to use fuel out of either tank separately. Should be a good system when I get it set up.
 

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MK Wagon, and an SD33T in pieces...
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724 Posts
Thanks for that @dkril, that's good info in there.
Interesting about the 100 series fuel filler, I didn't know about that, but apparently the tank I'm going to pick up has a split one, similar to the 100 series one, made out of a 200 series filler neck. I don't know if it's a factory-looking job or if it's a bit of a homemade bodge-job, but the bloke seems to have run the setup for a while, only removing it because the car wasn't used frequently enough or on long enough trips to warrant carrying so much diesel. I'll see tomorrow how good the system is anyway, gonna take the day to do the trip (about 4 hours from here to Bendigo, not including a stop at the grandparents house to grab a trailer), leaving tomorrow morning and hopefully back before dinner.

This tank, combined with a new head unit and speakers I got for Christmas, combined with my soon-to-be rebuild SD33T, and I'll hopefully have a pretty good truck soon 😁.
I'll need to fix up a bit of rust in the lower quarters when I get home, there's some bog there I didn't know about so I'll have to make the decision between doing a quarter chop, which I don't particularly want to do as I want to keep the body as original as possible, or repairing it a bit better with some fibreglass and rust-proofing the whole area a bit better.
Edit: forgot to mention I'll hopefully be getting that white door painted as well so more improvements. Barwork maybe, I would love to have it done, but just depends on funds.
 
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