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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, have been reading a lot the last months on the forum in order to buy a Y60. Great info!
I bought a LWB 2.8TD from Murcia, Spain. It has 275k (kms)
Not the engine of choice down under. I know. :)
However in Europe this was the model that was sold 90% of the time I think.
The car is as good as rust free, which is nearly impossible to find in Belgium.
Car wasn't registered and has been used on a farm only rarely. Hasn't been driven a lot the last decade I think.

Clutch master cylinder gave in. Ordered the spare. When I get it on the road again, I'm going to let my mechanic to check it out completely. Hope the head & head gasket is in tact.

These works were done by the seller:
(Engine) Oil change + filter
Air filter

Want to perform the following works aswell:
  • brake fluid
  • new termostat
  • change gearbox oil
  • flush radiator
  • check suspension, brakes, etc.

Any other works that are vital to do ?

In the radiator overflow tank there is a little bit of sludge like substance. I read on the forum that grey sludge indicates of oil in the radiator (blown head gasket).
Looks like they there is only (clear) water in the radiator, no radiator fluid. The sludge is around the fillercap and pipe, and is brownish however (from sand?).

Is this worrying?

527124
527125
 

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Personally if you know it has been sitting for a while I would change all the oils in the car. Engine, gearbox, diffs, transfer, brakes and clutch.

I would look at getting the radiator professionally cleaned and replace thermostat and radiator hoses while the car is apart. The sludge could be the coolant gelling from sitting too long and evaporating out. I assume you have already driven it and it did not overheat when you did drive it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Personally if you know it has been sitting for a while I would change all the oils in the car. Engine, gearbox, diffs, transfer, brakes and clutch.

I would look at getting the radiator professionally cleaned and replace thermostat and radiator hoses while the car is apart. The sludge could be the coolant gelling from sitting too long and evaporating out. I assume you have already driven it and it did not overheat when you did drive it?
Waiting on parts to arrive. Clutch master cylinder broke. So haven’t driven it yet.
Hope to fix this week, bring it to my mechanic and do the works.
Good to hear the sludge doesn’t look too worrying!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Changed the clutch master and slave. It drives and shifts good!
Clutch comes up real quick from the floor. I'll have that looked at.

Whilst jacking up the front end, I noticed the front axle ankle is leaking. Searching the forum, it could be just the seal. Is this the part I need?
Seal grease knuckle flange? part nr 40579
Or is it 40227 and 40019?

Going to let my mechanic do that. Never done this before. Need to order some other parts, want to order the necessary bits for the ankle as well.
What do you guys think, best to do both sides? Or only the leaking one?



527323
 

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Changed the clutch master and slave. It drives and shifts good!
Clutch comes up real quick from the floor. I'll have that looked at.

Whilst jacking up the front end, I noticed the front axle ankle is leaking. Searching the forum, it could be just the seal. Is this the part I need?
Seal grease knuckle flange? part nr 40579
Or is it 40227 and 40019?

Going to let my mechanic do that. Never done this before. Need to order some other parts, want to order the necessary bits for the ankle as well.
What do you guys think, best to do both sides? Or only the leaking one?
If the front swivel hubs are leaking you will most likely need to do the wheel bearings and king pins at the same time. Pretty much has to all come apart anyway to do the axle seal so not worth going through all the pain without fixing the cause of the issue. I would also look at upgrading to the roadsafe double lip oil seal in place of the factory single lip as they will most likely leak again
 

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I'd add think about checking and replacing any black hoses and vacuum lines.

If the oil is leaking down the inboard side of the knuckle joint, down over the bottom king pin cover and onto the rim and tyre, there's an end of shaft seal. Think its called the 'inner shaft oil seal'. I can never seem to find it on that exploded drawing you are showing. It is not the one on the back of the hub.As you are in Belgium, it is FEBEST 95GDS-34441010X. 34mm id, 44mm od,10.2mm thick. 40533-01J00. Just ordered one for my Safari :)
ps. Just do the leaking one. Pointless doing both - in my opinion/experience.
 
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