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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Got a thread tap this morning to clean head bolt threads!
Looking like I need nothing else now!
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Ok I had to buy another torque wrench.The first new one I just got started at 40nm up to 200nm,so that meant I needed a smaller one too.
Like I say it's very very handy to have a spare engine to practice on.
Lastnight was -5degrees here and a storm,a good night to be in the shed working on it馃槄
So I got testing the torque wrenches,the small one I'm very happy with but the big one I'm not sure yet.The smaller one seems to click off throughout all the lower values right up.

So my evening went something like this,I went to the local tool shop in the city(lucky I had other important business there work related anyway so I could be there legally during lockdown) I picked up everything I needed and went home to the shed.This is one big tool shop,they have litterly everything.
The first way I tested the new big torque wrench wasn't a complete test but someway accurate for a slightly smaller test.
I basically torqued a bolt to 40nm, upon going to 50 saw a twist in the bolt and an audible 'click' the next time I would see bolt movement would be 80Nm which I feel just ain't right.
So I took it back to the shop to exchange it for another (long day of driving 馃檲) they obliged no prob in the shop,I came home and this time with the new smaller torque wrench too and tested the big one again and it reacted the same way on the same engine bolt 馃檲 these hold ups,what can you do!!馃槓 However,a good test for the small wrench and the larger ones lower values were Both wrenches clicked off at 50NM together and anything below that which looked good.
Today,I need a few more tools,small bits so I am going to get a thread chaser set and clean the threads.
Maybe this could be the issue with the larger torque wrench?? 馃 The block is gone very rusty from just sitting there and some bolts were refusing to even thread regardless of a good oiling. I air compressed the threads and degreased a good few times but maybe it's not enough.
I feel the large torque wrench is accurate low down at up to 50NM and seems to be accurate up higher too,I tested it on a few other bolts inc a wheel stud and it seems good above 80nm.
I will clean the threads out on this old block and see how I go with further practice.Maybe that could be effecting my torque values
Handy to have old english for this馃槅馃憤
When I feel my torque wrench is accurate I will practice full sequence on this head before even touching my own Patrol.
Using torque is not a very accurate or consistent way to set the tension in threaded fasteners. This issue is well documented. Using angular tightening is far more accurate, which is the whole reason for manufacturers often specifying the angle(s) as part of the tightening sequence on critical connections like head bolts. The initial torque setting is only there to ensure there's no slack.

The friction coefficient between the threads has a massive impact on the accuracy of the set torque when using a torque wrench. That is why you sometimes see different torque specifications for "lubricated" and "dry" connections. Add corrosion / rust / dirt into the equation and you're flying blind. The only consistent observation you'll make with a contaminated connection is that the results are not repeatable.

If you want to "test" the accuracy of your torque wrench, you need to do it on high quality, clean, fresh connections otherwise you're wasting your time. The reason why you only see movement at 80Nm after tightening a dirty fastener to 50Nm is most likely because of the transition from static to dynamic friction. This transition / difference still exists, but is a lot less noticeable on clean lubricated connections.

Any torque wrench of reasonable quality would come with a calibration certificate. If it did, then you have nothing to worry about. Rather spend a little bit of extra time practicing with your angular torque gauge to make sure you're comfortable with getting the angles spot on and that you have the method and sequence correct. That's far more important than the initial torque setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yes I agree Andriek!
I am not worried about my torque wrenchs now,they are working fine! After all they are new and yes both have calibration certs.With me it's just an OCD thing about head bolts馃槄
I would like to think I have the right torque where it's needed though!
Torque wrench will come in handy starting the head though. See pic for proper sequence. Imperative too to close the front timing case when torquing head bolts
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
PS some spelling errors edited and fixed to some of my last posts! This phone is hard to write with. My fingers are too big馃槀
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok no better time than the present!
Bought the Patrol in to the shed this morning early and got stripping.
Hopefully next time you hear it will be driving like new!
I couldn't risk it any longer and feel I have enough research and all the tools now
It was pressurising the system bad and I couldn't keep topping it up with coolant!
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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Ok an eventful day but unfortunately my bottom end I'm not entirely happy with.
So collateral damage goes something like this,
*Head gasket blown out on No4 rear and blowing in to coolant gallery.Blown in the bottom layer rear of gasket,I had to look hard to find it.
* Head was a pain to get off with rear head drain pipe and EGR coolant pipe. Looks like the EGR system is slightly different on this engine compared to earlier versions,the EGR tube to rear of engine is twice the size.
*Very Slight score mark on No1 piston liner. Nothing to worry about but I must look more tomorrow,it may only be my eyes! Lol
*Slight score mark on No3 liner,same again really slight.
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*Slight small crack on top of crown of No 3 piston (very small)
*Slight crack on piston No1 crown.Slightly bigger but still tiny.
*Cracked head above No 3 cylinder running between valves.
*Upon moving pistons up and down with breaker bar I'm not happy with the residue left behind on cylinder bore after each rotation of No 3 piston,the rings should leave it clean where as it leaves a residue every time along the cylinder bore.Might just be from collant sitting in there too.
So what will I do now and my conclusion, ok it'd not a big job to change pistons and I have spares, but it is a pain removing lower sump馃檲馃槀I even have spare good full bottom ends. However,I personally don't see any reason not to put head back on and rock on for now. It's too much of a hassle right now for me to remove bottom end and I don't have the time or a pitt. However it's something I might consider later on to try to remove lower sump and change No1 and No3 pistons if needs be.
So for now I'm going to put head back on and drive on and will keep a close eye on it.What have I got to loose. I think those pistons arn't posing any real thread right now and upon inspection the cracks arn't deep nor running end to end, the crowns are deep on these especially from the widest part on top of crown. She wasn't using any oil right up to the end! The cracks are very small. When she is back up and cooling properly it could never again give bother.
So for the rest of the damage maybe I drove it for too long overheating...let's get head back on for now and see how she goes馃榿
More pics in more detail tomorrow!
It ran late with me and I got a nice gash on my right hand thumb馃檲 stupid front engine cover gasket,I grabbed it thinking it was loose as it was just hanging there and yup nice deep slice in my馃憤 馃槀
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Another quick update. Thinking now while I'm at it to drop lower sump and change No1 and 2 pistons馃槈
Thumbs up馃槈馃憤馃槀
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ok productive day, dropped lower pan and replaced two pistons No1 and No3, very easy with sump and head off. Lucky too I had them as spares 馃榿 Followed All torque settings refitting pistons. The bores were very good actually and the marks litterly wiped off with the first stroke of some very light grit paper,looks like it was my tired eyes yesterday馃槀Just had to borrow a ring compressor to get pistons back in.
Today was very productive but removing that lower sump was a pig馃檲馃檲馃檲
I got help from the brother with that job.
Pics to follow!
Going well now 馃槃馃憣
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Ok so I am back up and running with my Patrol going like new!!馃榿馃憣
It wasn't without a few almost brown trouser moments though 馃檲馃ぃ Had to tear it down twice (not head) but timing and front cover as I had issues I will post some pics first! (Pics In random order sorry)
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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Ok so for anyone sitting on the fence reading this considering the job first of all please have a good shed and plenty of room.I built this shed last year and it was the best thing I done, without it this job wouldn't have been possible.
This job took me five days mainly because I wanted to take my time and enjoy it too,I did have a few issues and one full day and an all nighter putting two pistons in.That was a dose to drop gearbox and cross member to just access the top bell end bolts馃檲It worked out ok though and we were lucky to have plenty of all sorts of tools and long socket extensions, especially to get at bolts on bell housing.
Once sump was down it was a piece of piss really. Bearings were in excellent shape! I am on the ball with my oil changes though. Sorry I didn't get any pics of this part of the job it was a real PITA and we were under pressure to get sump off and back on and my brother was in a hurry.
The areas that caused me a lot of grief was removing head and refitting.Even though I have removed a head before from my other Patrol this is my first time going to refit a head!
The worry about the front engine cover gasket and O ring is the main concern not to damage them trying to get head on!! Room is very limited but what I know now if I had to do a head again it would be easier.
I had the missus fishing the head drain pipe down to where it should be routed while I lifted on head
I put all manifolds on before fitting head as it would be a pain to do later and torque them to specs would have been harder working in the vehicle.
I elected to leave head drain pipe on the head but loose at the rear of head to tighten later so I had more wriggle ability to clear anything in it's path as I was lifting head back on.
The two bolts at rear of head are 12mm.
The two pistons didn't really need to be changed but I did anyway, the cracks were tiny.
So after fitting everything back to head and getting it all sorted I started her up and almost died when I saw a massive leak under rear of engine 馃檲馃檲 I didn't know what to think馃憖
This turned out to be No two injector line loose on top at injector,I had forgot I left it loose to bleed system馃槄馃槄馃ぃ馃ぃ I was delighted to see this fixed my diesel leak. My head kit came with a set of injector O rings and washers and diesel return line washers which was great to see and to get done!
So off we went for a test run, must say I wasn't too impressed, very 'flat spotty and sluggish I thought' then I pulled over and saw coolant leaking bad again under engine 馃檲馃檲 but this had nothing to do with my low power...read on!! Lol
Long story short, a coolant pipe burst under EGR valve and under head drain pipe, very annoying spot, small pipe going from EGR to block,we must have cut it removing head馃檲so I had to remove all that crap and it was a fiddly job getting it all back together but I got there and no more leaks!!
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I wasn't happy about how it was driving though and the following morning it would NOT rev past 2000k.... After a lot of messing and searching I found the problem, a wire was loose on my coolant temp sensor connector 馃榿 I put on a new connector and we are now driving like new!!! God knows how long this was acting up.... In the past I have had issues with that sensor too馃
This would cause wrong mixture,slow starting and cracked pistons馃馃槈 (Too high combustion temps) Or too low at times.
So I was now delighted my Patrol was getting there and nice to see Coolant levels staying up finally until I saw a slight weap on the front timing case 馃檲馃檮馃槒
I was lucky though as it's just the outer case and not the lower cover.
So I had to tear it down to the timing again and used another new bead of silicone after a good clean (slow process) and annoying to have to do it twice lol.... put it all back together and no more leaks!! I do remember when putting it on that it sort of didn't want to go on and it sort of slipped sideways on me that cover...came back to bite me馃槀

I would conclude by saying the head is not that hard to do but it's a very very annoying job due to lack of room, much easier to just take engine out to do it all!!! My back suffered and I must have got in and out a thousand times all week 馃槀馃槀 it helped taking bonnet off though!!

Dan
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
And this evening I sorted out a few minor oil leaks around the turbo and when I was finished all of that I gave it a good service inc coolant flush/ change and oil/ filters etc! Also gave engine bay a good degreasing and the exterior a nice detail 馃憣馃槈馃槃
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Finished my Patrol this evening with a new Diesel filter, Injection cleaner and a new airfilter and MAF clean!
She's going like a rocket now!! 馃榿馃榿馃榿馃憣 Amazing to see too zero coolant at all been pushed to overflow, even towing all day today up steep hills not a drop to over flow! It's all good now馃榿馃憣 Funny but the diesel filter change is something I always feel a huge performance boost after doing, amazing how they clog after not a huge amount of miles,I guess diesel quality differs from place to place too.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Decided not to risk this as mine was leaking a little oil! No cure only to replace it!
A well spent 150e!! I could have got it for 90euros from England but with this Brexit thing now shipping is heavily delayed and could incur customs fees when it hits our country for delivery 馃槈
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Just a quick update!
This Patrol is going awesome now, Coolant levels full always,no leaks at all. Starts one tip of the key now Everytime even after been sitting for a while,makes me understand just how much the compression was down with the cracked head and blown head gasket! Right now it's making the best power sinse I have owned it.
So I guess this was a successful rebuild. It's been worked hard now everyday and I'm delighted especially not to see any leaks.I was delivering some firewood today on a 150mile roundtrip to a place called Kenmare in Kerry.馃槈馃憤馃憤
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ok I had some drama sinse, a bad leak under my turbo on the oil return line.
I assumed this is because of when I moved turbo back a little off the manifold bolts to lift off head back when I was doing it.
After removing I saw that the bolts holding on the line were just finger tight馃槻
So I fitted a spare turbo I had and after removing my own was not looking too great,the waste gate rod was like a switch to move it and a little too much play on the main shaft for my liking so I fitted a spare one up but the issue was it's out of my other Patrol the 2001 model I broke for parts And this turbo had been idle a long time!! Looks like I was right because on the first few drives I had little to no low down boost. It was carboned up pretty bad and I used some MR muscle oven cleaner overnight before fitting but it still didn't work too well.
I made adjustments on the waste gate actuator arm resistance and nothing seemed to improve low down boost.
Was nothing to do but remove it again this time I'm taking the turbo from my other 2004 Patrol project,again idle for three years, upon looking at it before removal the impeller was seized but took very little effort to get it moving silky smooth,the vein rod moved very free on this too so I had a good feeling, so long story short and After a hell of a lot of work removing this and fitting it to my 2007 Patrol it was all worth the effort.
It works fantastic and the only way to know was really to try it.
I did let the Patrol come up to opperating temps first and let it run for a long time to let oil in around that turbo, In a situation like this it's very easy to damage a turbo that previously hadn't run for a long time.
I disconnected the glow plugs too before first start up and let engine crank to get oil pressure around turbo.
The first 20 miles were driven really really easy then I started to give it more shoe, it drives fantastic with super low and high boost.The best this Patrol has been.My god what a difference a fresh turbo makes馃槻
I'm happy 馃榿馃憤
All in all not too bad a job, two 10mm bolts on the oil return down near sump and just remove the oil pressure switch long side oil filter.
All new gaskets required on the refitting especially the pressure sender.The best part no more oil leaks!
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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
That was my leak there the last pic and the other is one dirty looking turbo the first one I tried from the 01 Patrol.
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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
NEW PROJECT
Looks like my own projects are on hold at the moment. A guy driving a 2006 Patrol ZD30 phoned me looking for an engine and long story short it's in my shed now ready for me to do the head and gasket!
I don't even have time to finish my new shed I built before Christmas 馃槄
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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Pulled the head of this one today and the gasket and head is mint!
What I did see when it came to me was the two radiator/expansion tank caps were reversed 馃檲
Ohh well head is off now as per his instructions.
Strange thing was I drove it last night and regardless of topping up it kept pushing out to overflow.
Maybe the system was very full of air, it's a shame because I had no more time to drive it but it's sure is strange... A lot of play I see in the water pump too, turbo was knackered and I'm putting a new Radiator in too for him and a better intercooler.
He is calling soon so it's his call if he wants to fit a new water pump,it's hard to tell because sometimes a little play in the viscous hub is normal only I think this is a little excessive.
No doubt he was lucky the turbo didn't explode or crack a piston from the wrong mix from currupt MAF signals because his intake booth was torn near the turbo馃槻 it would have been over boosting like mad and possibly overfueling, not sure how long it was happening but the whole engine was a mess with oil馃檲
So head is off and ready to go with his exhaust manifold that snapped two studs! He is sorting that out! So I await to get them back,the head looks mint I think a skim will be fine! He is sending it to engine shop to test anyway first,no point guessing.馃槃馃憤 Ohh and bottom end and bores/pistons look mint.馃憣
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Must finish wrapping his head for collection,you got to love duct tape with a cardboard base馃槄馃憤 loo
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Onwards and upwards! So everything is ready here and waiting for parts. The head kit arrived Friday with new head bolts.Block cleaned down and ready.
Just changed turbo aswell for him as there was a lot of play in the old one.
All we are waiting on is the head which should be with me Monday, I gave him a head which pressure tested good馃憣
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One thing I found strange about these head gaskets if you look at one side the coolant holes are smaller by design.
Strange design but maybe to slow down flow to promote cooling!?
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