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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
where can i source - apart from nissan- the tool required to remove and refit the round retainer for the front wheel bearings ( round retainer with holes in it )
i mainly need it to adjust the right pre-load when re fitting
OR
is there another way to do it
 

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I'll blow your house down!
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just make one up with piece of bar and
2 long bolts? UK GQ's have same set up as GU
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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Some auto parts and accessories shops have universal (adjustable) ones. The Nissan ones are expensive as can be expected.
Myself, I just made up my own universal one.
 

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Mate you can make your own easy enoungh as you can see we put a handle on it but i could have welded a nut if i wanted so as to use a torque wrench





Hope this helps... I have bigger issues at present like a cracked chassis so hopefully someone can help me out with a fix

If you want specs PM me

Just add that i can retension if needed with wheel on car too

cheers utemad
 

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GU front bearings

ute mad said:
Mate you can make your own easy enoungh as you can see we put a handle on it but i could have welded a nut if i wanted so as to use a torque wrench,


Ute Mad, what size OD/ID pipe did you use for this finely crafted specialist tool, length as well? I want to make one.

Thanks



 

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Hi guys

been out of town getting turbo changed..

Outer diameter of tube 60mm 4-5 mm wall so i think they call it 50mm as its 50mm internal.. bolts are from memory 5mm metric hi tensile bolts to make the studs and the tube length is 150mm with this length you can adjust tension with wheel on the 4by... to make it you need the locking ring off the car or a new one as we had to line up the studs before welding them... cut the studs up the side of the tube for strength then weld in

cheers utemad
 

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Just made up my own tool, thought I'd share my craftsmanship;)
I saw someone else had used an exhaust u bolt and I just cut out an old socket and welded it in. This hasn't been tested yet but looks like it will do the trick. Small enough to keep in the tool box.
Just gave it a little test and its no good for bedding in bearings, I'll keep trying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i tried to make one up myself recently and found i keep bending the bolts due to having to torque up so far on the initial bearing bedding in ( i fitted new bearings )
i was told to follow workshop manual as this can stop the vibration problem caused with incorrect bearing preload

3. Tighten wheel bearing lock nut with Tool.​
: 167 - 196 N​
zm (17 - 20 kg-m, 123 - 145 ft-lb)

4. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
5. Loosen wheel bearing lock nut so that torque becomes​
0 Nzm
(0 kg-m, 0 ft-lb).

6. Retighten wheel bearing lock nut with Tool.​
: 3 - 5 Nzm (0.3 - 0.5 kg-m, 26 - 43 in-lb)

when i torqued up to first preload ( 123 ft-lb) it just bent the bolts
will search and buy one i think
 

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This is the first one I made. It's Ok for removing/installing the lockring but it can't handle any serious torque.



Yesterday I made this one because I'm planning on replacing the bearings soon.







It's 50mm x 50mm x 3mm SHS with a 6mm plate welded on top with a 10mm bolt welded in (17mm spanner). I used 8mm bolts with 7mm shanks (the holes in the locking ring are 7mm).
If the spacing is slightly out, as it was for me, it's easy to adjust by squeezing 2 corners in a vice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
nice job JFF45
might have to look at doing what you did
love this site for inspiration
 

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Take two.
Found this Acro prop piece at the tip and couldn't resist having another go.
Cut off a section leaving enough hole to fit a standard bar. I was going to weld in a 12mm piece of reo bar but realised that was a waste of space and weight. Ground out for two 6.5mm drill bit ends and welded them in.
This one works well, tried and tested.




 

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naturally asthmatic
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barcode said:
i tried to make one up myself recently and found i keep bending the bolts due to having to torque up so far on the initial bearing bedding in ( i fitted new bearings )
i was told to follow workshop manual as this can stop the vibration problem caused with incorrect bearing preload


3. Tighten wheel bearing lock nut with Tool.​


: 167 - 196 N​
zm (17 - 20 kg-m, 123 - 145 ft-lb)


4. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.​


5. Loosen wheel bearing lock nut so that torque becomes
0 Nzm


(0 kg-m, 0 ft-lb).

6. Retighten wheel bearing lock nut with Tool.​

: 3 - 5 Nzm (0.3 - 0.5 kg-m, 26 - 43 in-lb)

when i torqued up to first preload ( 123 ft-lb) it just bent the bolts
will search and buy one i think


Interesting, I used the fishing scale attached to one of the bolts on the tool I made to set the bearing load. Actually just made up two more of these tools yesterday in about 5 minutes with materails from the hardware store for myself and another friend with a Safari (less than $5.00 each). I don't have my SM here with me right now but I am pretty sure it didn't say anything about preloading. I just set it to the lbs it stated then rotated the rotar a couple times front and back and then reset the bearing load. It's been well over 4000 kms since I did them and I haven't had any problems.
 

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BORDERTREK 4X4 & FABRICATION
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JFF45 said:
This is the first one I made. It's Ok for removing/installing the lockring but it can't handle any serious torque.

Thats a good design but use Hi tensile pins or bolts. I got a mate to spin mine up out of some 4140.
 

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sudso said:
Thats a good design but use Hi tensile pins or bolts. I got a mate to spin mine up out of some 4140.
The square tube one I made is a much better design so i won't be doing anything with that one... except maybe cut the bolts off if I need a piece of flat bar..
 

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dimensions

Hi guys nice tools there i was thinking about making one for my dad sins i could do it in school, and i need the dimensions on the space between the bolts :)

cheers :)



Bjarki thor
Reykjavik,iceland
 
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