[Boundry Rider]

Never had them in mine.
Sis'in'law's Pinky is a '92 and the swivel hub bearings were shot, wheel-bearings cactus, 2degree castor correction with a standard spring height, and half worn tyres all scalloped and out of balance were the main solve. Still pulls left with a positive camber issue on the LHS ATM.

Everyone should just get an '88

 

[Boundry Rider]

Anyone with an '88-'89 have the death wobbles?

 

[Boundry Rider]

'88-'89:
Faster steering box ratio
Tighter lock angle
Shorter pitman arm
Stabiliser to LHS chassis not panhard

That last point has some credence with handling I reckon...

 

[Boundry Rider]

It'd be interesting to see someone mod the damper location on a '90> GQ from the panhard to the original '88-'89 position on the LHS chassis.
I've never had the DW and the big grey hasn't been all renewed until 3 months ago. My tyres are 4yo 35" and haven't been rebalanced, one lower bearing was rusty and I had removed two shim pairs, wheel bearing and stub axle needed replacing and original steering gear (other than tierods) and radius arm bushes with 5yo offsets for the 2" lift. Now if that's not a candidate for play I dunno what is but she doesn't even shimmy let alone DW.
The '88-'89 had the following differences to later and were recalled to fit a brace on the panhard /steering box chassis mount:
Shorter steering box arm
Different (faster) steering ratio
Damper to LHS chassis not panhard
In my mind damper mounting to the panhard is a fault and a deviation from the original template of the GQ.
Point A: If you think about the suspended square component on the radius arm frame in it's entitety, there's one non rubber dampened connection point on the '90> GQ- the steering drag link all alone.
Point B: Also the steering drag link and panhard mounting points cross themselves- not ideal in my mind, if the geometry is that the panhard supports the drag link there will be an element of difference forces during the arc of each component here.
We have a spare recall cage and are considering mounting it up to the cheeky'lil'sister 92 Mav and remount the damper. I'll post up results here if it ever gets done

 

[Boundry Rider]

Was reading a post the other day about adjusting toe to be slightly out with bigger rubber?? I would have thought toe in. Anyone care to shed some light? My drivers side amada extreme shock is stuffed (leaked oil) so that's probably not helping and I'm not sure how old the king pins are

That’s me Ray. I have toe out on 33” about 3mm and on 35” I have 5-6mm toe out.

 

[Boundry Rider]

I did a front diff overhaul on an ‘01 TD42 a couple of weeks ago, all bearings and seals. Anyhow this didn’t correct the wobbles. So I’ve been eliminating a few things one by one over the last two weeks. It’s got worn 35 tyres, but this has a car reaction to geometry not tyre shimmy, this car doesn’t wobble with new tyres so it’s the ideal test bed to determine what is going on with the geometry. With some worn parts installed this car would death wobble without a doubt. It’s currently got a Fox damper and chassis mount kit also.
So far, done is:
Wheel balance
Wheel bearings
Swivel bearings
Fox damper mounted to chassis
Steering box play adjustment (& drive test)
Shocks
Radius mount bushes
Radius correction arms and OEM bushings
Drag link and OEM bushings
Tie rod and OEM bushings
Alignment set to toe in and out (no difference either way)
Lower control arms
Front and rear panhards and OEM bushings

I am still going to do ASAP (some today) with a drive test each modification:
Steering column bearing inspection
Front body mounts are worn, I will shim to take up play
Remove damper to asses difference being that it is chassis mount
Inspect upper control arms (not yet replaced)
Remove and measure both adjustable Panhards to determine compatible length to OEM specs.
A secret squirrel mod I’ve devised and will test today (time permitting)

One noteworthy point to take away from the things I have tested is:
Initially the resistance on swivel hubs was higher on the RHS than the LHS. I had a double set of .5mm shims. I wanted a set of .3mm for the LHS but couldn’t find them. So off the car went with two sets of .5mm installed, and 3 days later I found the .3mm shims and installed them to the LHS. The wobbles got worse. So gleaned from this, evidence that with a higher preload predominance on the LHS the intensity of the wobbles increased as opposed to a higher preload predominance on the RHS where the intensity of the wobbles decreased.

 

[Boundry Rider]

So removing the Fox damper surprisingly didnt make a huge difference, however did spread out the affected speed from 85 to 95kmh to 65 to 95 kmh.
But then i discovered a rusted out body mount outrigger (chsssis RHS front) which had the body mount dipping and rising when i turned the steering wheel from side to side... and I wasn't even sitting in the car!
So now off it goes to have the rad support panel and an outrigger replaced at the pabelbeaters and a new set of body mounts inserted as well.
Tried to post a vid of this occuring, but forum says not allowed 🤨 we'll see...

 

[Boundry Rider]

Interesting result with the preload difference. I did both sides the same with new bearings and measured preload using a spring balance scales. I made shims to measure from some hard plastic shim material I got a kit of various thickness and just cut out my own to get the preload correct, slightly tight if anything (2 kg).

I’d say that given what we found with the eroded RHS outrigger offering little resistance to lateral and vertical movement, this was defining the symptom of the LHS behaving worse with more bearing crush. I will road test before/after swapping out those shims again once it’s back from the panelbeater.
One thing is for sure, the GU is very sensitive to change, I was surprised how much this deteriorated body mount affected steering on a full chassis vehicle. I wasn’t even sitting in the seat or putting force on the vehicle body at all when rocking the steering wheel, so I can’t figure how the opposing force could move the body so much that it is visibly pulling the body up and down in the body mount freeplay. I would have thought if I was countering the force to move the steering wheel by sitting in the vehicle there would be a counter force effect, but standing on the ground I don’t spend the counter force in the body at all. However it reacted with the same lateral and vertical movement either way.
Looking at the GU body rubbers, they have 2 more of the tall ones than GQ so GU is sitting on a more cushioned platform that may lend itself to more feedback into the cab at the steering wheel than GQ. So given that the body is heavier and the track is wider I would suggest that body mounts are a very much more important part of steering integrity than is currently interpreted by GU owners.