[klappers]

Unfortunately, not in Perth at this time.

I use Mathew at Peel Tyres in Mandurah now.

He does truck and light truck stuff as well as passenger, and so has the right equipment.

So I would be looking for someone like that in your area. The chain store tyre shops should be avoided.

With the exception of Beaurepaires, you can go to one of their commercial centres in either Kewdale or Canning Vale, they do a lot of fleet, light truck, semi work in those areas.

I also used these blokes once, lost a few weights when up in the hills around Kalamunda and the vibration was really bad, was recommended to use them and they did a good job.

Drive Straight for Wheel Alignments Suspension Brakes for all Trucks Trailers Buses 4WD

They are in Welshpool, but it was some time ago.

Cheers bud. Happy to drive where ever if they know what they are doing. Wheel alignment cant be that hard can it?

 

[madk1w1]

Wheel alignment on a patrol for most shops is only Toe adjustment as rest of adjustments require bearing change(camber) or spacers/bushes (castor).
Mates 96 ST ute standard hieght has never had an issue unless mud build up in rim.

 

[UncleBryan]

From my perspective, wheel bearings are also up there as a major. Pre-load (aka starting force) is stated as 4.3ft-lbs, some make the mistake that this is the load on the bearing as applied to the lock nut. It is not, it is the resistance of the whole hub to any rotation.

The actual bearing pre-load is 43ft-lbs as applied via the bearing lock nut tool.

Holy sh*t I rebuilt my swivel hubs last week with no improvement, king pin bearings, cleaned and re-greased CVs, new axle seals, re-fitted all shims, cleaned and re-greased wheels bearings then set them to 4.6 ft-lb which i thought was loose! Thanks db, I know what ill be doing first thing when i get home next week!

 

[UncleBryan]

So a bit of a dig but I'm still chasing my intermittent wobble/bounce. It's an '04 coil cab with 2" OME lift, 285s, 2 degree castor correction bushes. There has always been a slight wobble since I've owned it, but never enough to bother me up until the last 5000k's or so, it has gotten worse. But its not every time I drive it, some days I can sit on 85kph and it handles perfect, then some days I can feel it slightly coming in at 70kph and by 80kph my beer gut is jiggling it's that bad

So far I've done Panhard bushes (Genuine rubber), removed kingpin shims with no difference, rebuilt the swivel hubs and replaced shims, tightened wheel bearings to spec, draglink/tierod ends replaced with superior engineering goodies, re-checked all shock mounts, re-checked radius arm nuts but it still comes in between 75-90kph. Mind you after all this work when it decides to drive right it feels a million times better, so all that work hasn't been pointless, I'm just annoyed this is my 3rd patrol and the only one that decides to shake its head. I'm leaning towards steering box? is there any way of testing this or adjusting it?

 

[ACMPatrol]

So a bit of a dig but I'm still chasing my intermittent wobble/bounce. It's an '04 coil cab with 2" OME lift, 285s, 2 degree castor correction bushes. There has always been a slight wobble since I've owned it, but never enough to bother me up until the last 5000k's or so, it has gotten worse. But its not every time I drive it, some days I can sit on 85kph and it handles perfect, then some days I can feel it slightly coming in at 70kph and by 80kph my beer gut is jiggling it's that bad

So far I've done Panhard bushes (Genuine rubber), removed kingpin shims with no difference, rebuilt the swivel hubs and replaced shims, tightened wheel bearings to spec, draglink/tierod ends replaced with superior engineering goodies, re-checked all shock mounts, re-checked radius arm nuts but it still comes in between 75-90kph. Mind you after all this work when it decides to drive right it feels a million times better, so all that work hasn't been pointless, I'm just annoyed this is my 3rd patrol and the only one that decides to shake its head. I'm leaning towards steering box? is there any way of testing this or adjusting it?

You've had the same tyres and wheels on the same corner through all this?

 

[Mpltm]

Everything except the radius arm bushes. You never know how bad they are until you pull the arms out. These looked good whilst the am was in the vehicle, but they were torn just enough for the wobbles (violent wobbles) to occur. https://youtu.be/zW67dbnrJ8M

Thee other thing is to remove the shims from the kingpin caps.

Mick

 

[UncleBryan]

You've had the same tyres and wheels on the same corner through all this?

Nah I've tried a roatation, 2 different balances, swapped a mates 33's on for a drive and always the same, drives perfect for 5-10kms, hit a few bumps or some corugation in the road or turn a corner and in it comes.

Everything except the radius arm bushes. You never know how bad they are until you pull the arms out. These looked good whilst the am was in the vehicle, but they were torn just enough for the wobbles (violent wobbles) to occur. https://youtu.be/zW67dbnrJ8M

Thee other thing is to remove the shims from the kingpin caps.

Mick

They're brand new king pin bearings and cups, the pre-load is fine with the standard shims, I'm not going to over-tighten them to mask another issue.

Ive read about adjusting the play in the steering box, I'll try this when I'm back from work as it sounds like a simple job, and it makes sense to me that this could cause it to do it occasionally rather than all the time?

cheers guys.

 

[bruteutes308]

have u checked the steering coupling

 

[UncleBryan]

Do you mean the arm that comes off the steering box?

 

[Brunks]

Nah I've tried a roatation, 2 different balances, swapped a mates 33's on for a drive and always the same, drives perfect for 5-10kms, hit a few bumps or some corugation in the road or turn a corner and in it comes.


They're brand new king pin bearings and cups, the pre-load is fine with the standard shims, I'm not going to over-tighten them to mask another issue.

Ive read about adjusting the play in the steering box, I'll try this when I'm back from work as it sounds like a simple job, and it makes sense to me that this could cause it to do it occasionally rather than all the time?

cheers guys.

I am in the same boat. I have had all the bushes, king pin bearings changed, removed shims, new tyres, adjustment on steering damper, placed into two separate companies who have adjusted the angles and the list goes on and on and on. Its burning a hole in my pocket. I still have a shake at 95-110 km/ph. I have a 4 inch lift and 35 inch tyres MT. I have been running this set up for years with no problems however, I cannot find the focal point of the problem/wear and tear.

Any luck with the steering box?

On my end, could it be the rims (standard Nissan rims, maybe I have buckled them?) However I haven't placed someone elses rims and tyres on my vehicle to test that theory, thou Big Wheel Truck believe my tyres and rims are fine. What is optimum tyre pressure when on a highway?

Any assistance or advice would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers.

 

[Gasburner]

Do you have drop boxes?

carpet cleaners can't tune turbo's

 

[Boundry Rider]

It'd be interesting to see someone mod the damper location on a '90> GQ from the panhard to the original '88-'89 position on the LHS chassis.
I've never had the DW and the big grey hasn't been all renewed until 3 months ago. My tyres are 4yo 35" and haven't been rebalanced, one lower bearing was rusty and I had removed two shim pairs, wheel bearing and stub axle needed replacing and original steering gear (other than tierods) and radius arm bushes with 5yo offsets for the 2" lift. Now if that's not a candidate for play I dunno what is but she doesn't even shimmy let alone DW.
The '88-'89 had the following differences to later and were recalled to fit a brace on the panhard /steering box chassis mount:
Shorter steering box arm
Different (faster) steering ratio
Damper to LHS chassis not panhard
In my mind damper mounting to the panhard is a fault and a deviation from the original template of the GQ.
Point A: If you think about the suspended square component on the radius arm frame in it's entitety, there's one non rubber dampened connection point on the '90> GQ- the steering drag link all alone.
Point B: Also the steering drag link and panhard mounting points cross themselves- not ideal in my mind, if the geometry is that the panhard supports the drag link there will be an element of difference forces during the arc of each component here.
We have a spare recall cage and are considering mounting it up to the cheeky'lil'sister 92 Mav and remount the damper. I'll post up results here if it ever gets done

 

[Sydo]

Just changed to more offset steelies from factory alloys. Bit of wobble now. Add it to the list

 

[geeyoutoo]

Just changed to more offset steelies from factory alloys. Bit of wobble now. Add it to the list

Done, I had one spare spot .

 

[UncleBryan]

I am in the same boat. I have had all the bushes, king pin bearings changed, removed shims, new tyres, adjustment on steering damper, placed into two separate companies who have adjusted the angles and the list goes on and on and on. Its burning a hole in my pocket. I still have a shake at 95-110 km/ph. I have a 4 inch lift and 35 inch tyres MT. I have been running this set up for years with no problems however, I cannot find the focal point of the problem/wear and tear.

Any luck with the steering box?

On my end, could it be the rims (standard Nissan rims, maybe I have buckled them?) However I haven't placed someone elses rims and tyres on my vehicle to test that theory, thou Big Wheel Truck believe my tyres and rims are fine. What is optimum tyre pressure when on a highway?

Any assistance or advice would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers.

Yes adjusting the play in the steering box has made the biggest difference for me so far, I still get it occasionally but no-where near as bad.

Before I thought it was in my front end, but now that it is pretty much completely rebuilt and handles beautifully I can feel the vibration somewhere in the rear end, I think that while everything in the front was worn and loose the vibration just travelled there.

 

[Brunks]

Do you have drop boxes?

carpet cleaners can't tune turbo's

@ Gasburner, Drop boxes yes.

@ UncleBryan. Cheers I will have a more in-depth look over the weekend.

 

[DB-101]

Yes adjusting the play in the steering box has made the biggest difference for me so far, I still get it occasionally but no-where near as bad.

Before I thought it was in my front end, but now that it is pretty much completely rebuilt and handles beautifully I can feel the vibration somewhere in the rear end, I think that while everything in the front was worn and loose the vibration just travelled there.

I think you're probably right on that, it was an issue I picked up on with the 6.5 Patrol I had. I change the front end components and drove, and still a wobble, changed back end bushings and less wobble, I put it down to the stiffening and eliminating any play that helped.

I think the whole set up is on a knife edge, it only takes one of a multitude of things on the front or back ends to get worn to tip it over the edge.

 

[Do the MK]

I picked up a new mk a couple of weeks ago, likely for parts but the thing ran so i thought I'd drive it the 220 k's home. Leaving town these wobbles kicked in enough for me to be a bit concerned but i just took it real easy, drove carefully and at around 70 kph or so. All went well until i was just making the last turn before my gate, i was maybe doing around 90 kph here, touched on the brakes to slow down into my place and woah! these wobbles unleashed in full. Scariest thing I've ever experienced in a car. My mate who was following me on the trip swore my front wheels were toeing in toeing out toeing in toeing out and it sure felt like it. I won't be so flippant about driving one of these things home when i don't know the actual car itself next time. This thread will come in handy as I'll be doing everything i can to make sure my main mk doesn't do that ever in the future. Yeah, that was not a wheel balance issue!!! My mate was talking about kingpins afterwards, i was just happy to be alive.

 

[ACMPatrol]

While chasing a new clunk in the front end I found worn control arm bushes and replaced them. Clunk still apparent, so replaced the recently fitted heavy duty drag link with the older drag link with slightly worn tie rod ends. The clunk appeared to be gone.

So to eliminate the damper from the possible culprit I did a short drive - hit a bump at 70ks and the front end went into a massive DW spasm that frightened the crap out of me.

Limp home slowly and refit damper - no problem since.

It seems the damper is the only thing that keeps the front stable. Those who have done the whole front end replacement and are still having some wobbles might be successful if the damper is replaced.

The difference between no damper and the factory one (presumably calibrated for standard height, wheels and rubber) makes me think a heavier one should accompany wider wheel track, lift, and heavier rims and tyres.

Having seen other 4wds with damper fixed to the chassis I also speculate that the panhard mounting location is maybe not the best.

 

[geeyoutoo]

I'm on my third damper.......... Yes it does make a difference but often not a fix.