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Just came across this on Facebook. It's $1450 ready to fit. Looking at the second photo it looks like there is 2 bolts that hold it together in the middle. My concern is wouldn't that those bolts would be a lot weaker than 2 control arms?
uploadfromtaptalk1408701804336.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1408701835310.jpg
 

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Master Coalroller
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Look on the other face hard to see, but there's a bolt hole on each side. This will line up with one side of the original chassis mounted bolt holes where the bush would be.
EDIT: I was looking at it back to front those hard to see bolt holes would be on the diff where the original bushes were, not the chassis.
 

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Master Coalroller
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Don't like the look of it though, the A frame is not symmetrical. Looks like hand fab. Could be a cheap copy or scam.
 

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Every dog has his day
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How does the diff end attach to the diff? It appears to have two bits of angle attached vertically.

The whole diff end looks a bit weak to be honest, bare in mind it's doing the lateral job of the panhard too, mine would be ten times stronger than that I reckon.
 

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Clever idea to be bolt on. A-frames typically only have one centre rose. I've got a wizard 5 link on my GQ that's been fitted for about 12 years. Brett does extremely good quality fabrication so Id be surprised if it was not up to scratch...assuming it's still Brett running the show.
 

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GHMBC #3
nissan patrol gq lwb,3"lift.
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looks a lot stronger than the original 2 upper control arms and panhard rod.originals have a 2mm sidewall and bend like bananas
 

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Master Coalroller
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Clever idea to be bolt on. A-frames typically only have one centre rose. I've got a wizard 5 link on my GQ that's been fitted for about 12 years. Brett does extremely good quality fabrication so Id be surprised if it was not up to scratch...assuming it's still Brett running the show.
I like the concept, and would run one if funds permitted. Just don't like how that cross brace tube in the pic isn't symmetrical, if you look at the LHS cross brace tube to bush space is smaller than the space on the RHS. I would have thought piece of fab work like this is jigged and should be perfectly aligned. Makes me think it's a copy.
 

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How does the diff end attach to the diff? It appears to have two bits of angle attached vertically.

The whole diff end looks a bit weak to be honest, bare in mind it's doing the lateral job of the panhard too, mine would be ten times stronger than that I reckon.
I may be wrong but wouldn't the curved pipe with the bushes go on diff top arm mount points and angle brackets mount to chassis somehow, does look a little narrow though.

Agree with the lateral strength, also the 4 bolts in the side of rose joint shaft I presume are to lock it in position
 

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Master Coalroller
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The angles will slip over the original diff mounting points on the inside edges, and the four bolt holes will probably need to be drilled through. The hidden bolt holes should line up with the original bush holes.
The concept is OEM on the old Range Rovers, and has a funny fat shock absorber as well. The shock usually fails and gets turfed in the bin.
Aren't these A frames supposed to follow the original geometry? The ball joint isn't anywhere near the pivot line of the original diff uppers. That will change the OE spec castor of the diff as it cycles.
Can you post up a pic of yours timo_ed?
 

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That A- frame is one of Brent's old style. You'll notice that the one at the top of the pic is the new style. (different joint). Thats is a pretty weird spot for the arm to break.

I've had a couple of Brent's kits in a couple of my cars over the years and his gear is built strong. Although never had one of his A frames.
I'm going to order another kit of Brent as soon as I decide on which height/weight combo I'm going to run.

Cheers

Craig
 

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Glasshouse Bogan #2
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I wouldn't just bolt a kit like that on anyway, what u have to remember is that without the pan hard in place all the side load is on the standard upper control arm mounts and they were never built to handle that much load, so at a minimum bracing the standard mounts I think would be necessary
 

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Benefits of an a-frame over the standard arrangement = bugger all.



Better of spending time and money on longer lower arms.

Well that depends on what kind of truck you're building. If you want to run 38"+ rubber and set it up properly with good travel then the alternatives are extended panhard mounts or an a-frame. I'd choose the a-frame in that situation. Also the long arms won't help with the rear end pulling itself sideways when it squats under compression.

As for the lateral load, the geometry of the a-frame transfers the force along the arms so they push/pull onto the standard bush in line with the chassis not twisting across the bush. This load is effectively split 50:50 into one of strongest parts of the chassis. In contrast the original panhard mount has leverage to twist the chassis and puts 100% of the load on one chassis rail..that's why they crack there.

Not saying everyone should run out and get an a-frame but they do have their place. Remember most landrovers have them from factory and it's well known their geometry is much better than ours.
 

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Well that depends on what kind of truck you're building. If you want to run 38"+ rubber and set it up properly with good travel then the alternatives are extended panhard mounts or an a-frame. I'd choose the a-frame in that situation. Also the long arms won't help with the rear end pulling itself sideways when it squats under compression.

As for the lateral load, the geometry of the a-frame transfers the force along the arms so they push/pull onto the standard bush in line with the chassis not twisting across the bush. This load is effectively split 50:50 into one of strongest parts of the chassis. In contrast the original panhard mount has leverage to twist the chassis and puts 100% of the load on one chassis rail..that's why they crack there.

Not saying everyone should run out and get an a-frame but they do have their place. Remember most landrovers have them from factory and it's well known their geometry is much better than ours.

Oh yes, there are benefits, but they'd be negligible for 99%+ of people reading this thread.
The lateral movement during travel caused by the panhard really is a non issue for the most part, and for high speed stuff (racing) I believe it's better to keep both axles travelling the same rather than have the rear swinging longitudinally with an a-arm and the front swinging laterally on a panhard.
 

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Master Coalroller
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Benefits of an a-frame over the standard arrangement = bugger all.

Better of spending time and money on longer lower arms.
I've arrived at this conclusion Steel.
Plus the bolt on A frame upper replacement being a shorter arc of travel doesn't seem to be an appropriate course of action when the mighty GQ suffers from short trailing arms as soon as you increase lift/tyre size.
I would benefit much more from a lower long arm mod.
 

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GHMBC #3
nissan patrol gq lwb,3"lift.
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Superior long arms, much better option for straight off the bat improvement.

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=31_32_34_194&products_id=1718
tried ordering from them since they moved to the new 'superstore'? I rang to order hybrid flexy arms,swaybar kit, some rear arms as per yr link and all other control arms,steering arms,panhards,billet hubs and all new suspension and this is how it went,
1st call; blah blah blah, whats yr credit card number
2nd call; with credit card in hand- can you ring back or order online/i said can't you write my order down/she said she would probably loose the piece of paper... go figure

so don't know if that is a good option
 
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