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Wont start when hot, and loss of power

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum so I hope I am introducing myself correctly. I bought my first Patrol about 4 months ago, its an 07 Cab Chassis, CRD ZD30, has now done 137,000kms (Done 120k when i got it). I use it as a work ute mainly. All up its a a great work ute but it has a persistent issue I want to get on top off.

It will start fine in the mornings or after its been shut down for 3 plus hours. However after driving for half an hour or more if i pull up to buy fuel or have a short stop it is very hard to start again, it always has lack of pressure in the primer bulb and I have to prime it while cranking to get it to fire again. Also when towing or sometimes just going up a hill (under heavier load) it has intermittent loss of power, feels like lack of fuel, I have to change down gears to keep speed but the issue remains until i reach the top of the hill or hit a flat.

I have replaced the fuel filter with genuine nissan, plus changed the primer bulb. Also had a local auto sparky plug a computer in but no faukts showed up, plus it had good fuel pressure on startup. (Although the motor was cool so it was firing up).

Wondering weather I have a faulty relief valve on the fuel rail?

Any thoughts?

Cheers, Tom
 

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Rogue
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G'day Tom and welcome.

You have stuffed injectors. The injectors warm up, expand and lose seal. This causes fuel to leak past the injector pins and not allow the commonrail to get to pressure. The ECU will see that the commonrail doesn't get to a predetermined pressure and will not fire the injectors.

I had the exact same problem in my 07 CRD ute and I diagnosed the problem injectors by pulling off the fuel return hose (black material collector pipe) from the injectors and putting another hose into each injector, running each hose to a container (one container for each hose) and turning it over. I found that two of my injectors let fuel into the can, these are the ones that were leaking.
 

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Hi mate, welcome to the forums. Congrats on your purchase.

I don't think your issue has anything to do with temperature. It has to do with fuel pressure vs running time.

The simple fact that it starts when you prime the system & more so when it's hot, plus the lack of power up top makes me think it's the injector pump or injectors.
 

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heyhey said:
You have stuffed injectors. The injectors warm up, expand and lose seal. This causes fuel to leak past the injector pins and not allow the commonrail to get to pressure. The ECU will see that the commonrail doesn't get to a predetermined pressure and will not fire the injectors.
Thanks,

Sounds fair to me. If I follow the procedure you explianed do I only need to replace the faulty injectors? Or is it better to do the whole lot?
 

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Sharky1 said:
I don't think your issue has anything to do with temperature. It has to do with fuel pressure vs running time.

The simple fact that it starts when you prime the system & more so when it's hot, plus the lack of power up top makes me think it's the injector pump or injectors.
Thanks,

The sub tank was playing up when I first got the ute, along with the dash cluster not working. I had an auto sparky check it out - just pulled the trims off around the steering column - couldnt find a fault but it has been fine since. He said the sub tank module could be faulty. I havent replaced it but the sub tank switch still operates fine and transfers fuel. Could that be worth changing?
 

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Um, I wouldn't replace it until you know it's broken. At 1st I considered that as the culprit but the symptoms all point to injectors or injector pump. You can safely bet it's one of those 2 things. I'd start with injectors as they're a lot cheaper than a pump rebuild & you can do them yourself if you're mechanically minded.
 

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LED ZEPPELIN
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Welcome Tom, I merged topics and did some editing (makes it easier to follow for future archive searches).
 

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Rogue
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Thanks,

Sounds fair to me. If I follow the procedure you explianed do I only need to replace the faulty injectors? Or is it better to do the whole lot?
After following the procedure, you only need to replace the injector/injectors that are leaking. When you see the price of an injector you probably wont be in favour of doing them all at once. At least I wasn't.
 

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There are 2 ways to fix this. Diagnose it properly, it could be a supply system issue, pump, rail or injectors. Then if it is injectors, replace those that are faulty, if there are 2 or more, replace as a set. If its only one, you have to think then of how long the others will last for.

Or buys parts and fit them until you fix it.

Andy
 

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I am having some starting issues with mine as well, although mine is worst when cold. I have had the glow plugs checked out and got an all clear, that leaves probable injector issue. I had heard that the price is about $850 per injector, but I got a price of $550 each from MTQ Turbos. I am going to try Liqui-Moly injector purge plus first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi guys.

Pulled into my Auto sparky a few days ago after I had been driving for a couple of hours. Had him plug the computer in and showed up the error code 00289 (from memory) fuel rail relief valve faulty. So I bought a new one from United fuel injection in Perth. I put it in, fired up fine. Drive down the road, seemed okay but then hesitated and died completely. I can get it to go by priming and though it would have air in the sytem from changing the valve. So this happened a few more times, I gave up after realisi g it shuts down when I use fyll throttle. Seemed to be an electronic issue. I have disconnected the battery ( I thought it may have stored some errors as I unplugged the intercooler and 3 other connectors when changing the valve.) and thouht I would post on here to see what everyone thinks in case I am missing something.

Is it possible it may still have air in the sytem?

Cheers, Thomas
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I havn't rulled out injectors either. Just made sense to follow what the computer said was faulty to begin with.
 

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The computer is not telling you what is specifically faulty, its telling you the area that is faulty. A fault code is like a fire alarm, it will tell you which of the 30 stories in a building is on fire, but not which one of the 300 rooms on each level is on fire. This is what the general public seem to have a misconception with.

Thomas, time to do a proper fault diagnosis to get to your problem.


Andy
 
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