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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all Im bought an engine from Shreck via the classifieds on here as a replacement for the one I had for only 13 days before it went bang (see previous sob post from me).
I have been removing the old one using the Max Ellory manual as a guide but have hit a snag.
I have removed all the recommended items (starter cat conv. shrouds hoses etc etc) and am at a point where Im trying to pull the trans out, ready to sling the engine up and out. However having unbolted the cross member and the trans mount blocks i cannot get it to move. It is like I have missed a bolt in the cross member and its still retained. I have double checked and from what I can see everything is off so it should be loose (even the two small ones above the member)....or am I wrong? Do I need to de-link the gear stick or something?
Another question do I need any special tools to swop the clutch for the torque converter plate behind the flywheel if you know what i meen?
 

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You can take the engine out and put it back in without taking trans/ gearbox out. Unless thats what you want to do? I just finnished rebuilding mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No I don't want to have to remove it if its not necessary. So whats the trick for parting the engine from the trans?
 

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No I don't want to have to remove it if its not necessary. So whats the trick for parting the engine from the trans?
Hi Peterowensbabs,

Make sure you have removed the 2 top bell housing bolts. Place jack under trans to help lift it up and down to achieve best angle( this is when a mate is handy to have around) . Sling your engine, take up the slack until it clears the engine mounts. Then jiggle, jiggle, jiggle until she comes apart. The motor has to come away from the bell housing about 75 to 100mm before she is clear to lift right out. Obviously, make sure nothing is catching as you lift & lower the engine. The below is an extract out of the NISSAN workshop technical manual to follow;(as above just skip the gearbox removal part)
Hope this helps?

Preparation
1. Drain coolant from radiator drain plugs.
2. Remove the following parts.
+ Engine hood
+ Undercover
+ Under protector
+ Battery
+ Intercooler cover
+ Intercooler
+ Radiator shroud
+ Radiator
+ Accessory belt
+ Cooling fan
+ Exhaust front tube
Engine room (Left)
3. Remove air duct and air cleaner case.
4. Disconnect vacuum hose to the vehicle on the engine.
5. Disconnect harness connectors from alternator and air compressor.
6. Remove alternator.
7. After removing refrigerant, remove pipes of air compressor
and inlet/outlet.
8. Disconnect heating hose, install blank cap to hose to prevent
coolant from leaking.
9. Remove heating pipe.
10. Remove heat insulator.
11. Remove catalytic converter.
Engine room (Right)
12. Remove power steering reservoir tank from bracket, and fix
it to the vehicle with a rope.
CAUTION:
Keep the reservoir tank level when fixing to prevent oil leak.
13. Remove fuel feed and return hoses.
CAUTION:
Install blank caps immediately to avoid fuel leakage.
14. Remove all harness connectors on the engine, and move
harnesses to the side of the vehicle.
Vehicle underfloor
15. Remove starter motor.
16. Detach A/T oil cooler pipes from oil pan. (A/T model)
17. Remove rear propeller shaft.
18. Remove mounting bolts to secure the engine to transmission.
1) Remove torque converter installation bolt. (A/T model)
2) Lift transmission bottom with transmission jack, and remove
rear mount members from the vehicle.
3) Lower transmission with the jack, and remove upper mounting
bolts securing the engine to transmission.
4) Lift transmission with the jack, and reinstall rear mount members
to the vehicle.
5) Position the jack to the front side of transmission.
6) Remove remaining mounting bolts securing the engine to
transmission.
Removal operation​
19. Remove air conditioner high pressure pipes at the rear of the
engine room.​
+​
This is due to some inconvenience in the rear slinger installation.
20. Install the engine slingers (standard service part) to front-left
and rear-right.

: 25 - 28 N​
zm (2.5 - 2.9 kg-m, 18 - 20 ft-lb)
21. Hook hoists to slingers to secure the position.
22. Remove installation nuts for left and right engine mount insulators.
23. While adjusting position frequently, hoist and remove the
engine.
CAUTION:
+ While performing operation, check that all necessary
wires and pipes are disconnected.
+ Avoid interference with parts on the vehicle.
Installation
Install the engine in the reverse order of the removal procedure.
+ Keep each mount insulator from oil adherence and damage.
+ As for identification and installation direction of left and right
insulators, refer to stamping on the top surface. Refer to
EM-1064.
+ As for a location with positioning pin, insert the pin correctly
to the hole of mating part.
+ While keeping each mount insulator free from twisting,
tighten mounting bolts and nuts for the engine mount.
Inspection
+ Before starting the engine, check coolant level and grease
amount, and if necessary, refill them to the specified level.
+ Start the engine, and check that there is no abnormal noise
or vibration.
+ Warm up the engine to the sufficient temperature, and check
that there is no leakage of coolant, greases, fuel, or exhaust
gas

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes got the two top bell housing bolts thanks (skinned knuckles and all as I did it without tilting) ok so I'm an idiot I missed the remove bolts that hold the torque converter to the pressure plate bit eh so where the hell are they hiding?
 

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Yes got the two top bell housing bolts thanks (skinned knuckles and all as I did it without tilting) ok so I'm an idiot I missed the remove bolts that hold the torque converter to the pressure plate bit eh so where the hell are they hiding?
Just had a quick look on the Nissan tech manual and to remove the bolts you need to turn the crankshaft to access the bolts. I would think you should be able to see them from where you have removed the starter motor and exposed the flywheel. There are 4 bolts :coffee:
 

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So your current setup is auto and the replacement engine is manual?

As above the torque converter bolts will be holding it together, they are torqued up quite tightly

After removing one get a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt to turn the motor over to line up the next bolt

make sure to loctite the torque converter bolts when your re assembling

With the manual engine you should just have to unbolt the clutch and flywheel and remove the spigot bush

I don't have any experience with zd30s so if I got anything wrong with this particular engine someone chime in

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you guys gave up for tonight but will keep you posted.....
 

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Thank you guys gave up for tonight but will keep you posted.....
Hang in there peterowensbabs, you will be driving your pride and joy before you know it!:driving:

Treat it like a journey- full of surprises and great rewards.

You will learn so much about your Troll that will hold you in good stead down the track!
I new very little about trolls as I used to have an 80 series Lancruiser Sahara 4.2 turbo diesel 24 valve ( (I know dirty word on here) but a great 4by that my son has now.

This is where I started to do things myself and I could not count how many times I could diagnose and fix problems because of the transplant I did then. I thought the patrol would be harder given the chronic lack of room and gazillion wires and vacuum hoses. But once I started to map out a plan, I only hit a few snags. And you already hit one Knuckles scrubbed. That gets better too!:rolleyes:
None the less just remember you go from this:headwall: to :bananaro:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your support however I can't access the torque converter bolts for love nor money. I think I may have to remove the trans after all. I can spin the crank throughout 360 but no bolta are exposed through the starter motor port. So how the he'll do you get to them. I'm now thinking I have to slip the bell housing back ( ie remove the trans ) and create a gap. Any one out there an expert HELP !!!!!!




Peter Owens.
 

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A friend of mine replaced the auto on his rodeo and had to put a spanner in where the starter goes to get to the bolts, patrols may be the same, get a torch and have a look in the starter hole to see what you can see
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The bitch is out! I guess i should have degreased better before starting, the port is below the starter motor port tucked in a corner between two flanges very hard to spot in poor light and under a mountain of oily sludge. Thank you all for your help.
 

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Great to here !
 
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