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G'day fellas.

After a very comprehensive search around the forums and even facebook I haven't yet found an answer to my question so I figured I would ask. Background is below, the TLDR questions are up top.

Is there an explanation/reason as to why there is an insistence to changing the entire Common Rail after the second Fuel Pressure Relief Valve has failed, and;

Has anyone suffered an intermittent FPRV fault that seems to be climate dependant (same hill, same speed, difference temperature and the fault doesn't occur)?

Car Background:

ZD30 Common Rail mated to a manual under a wagon body, 275k on the clock, stock tune, unopened engine, pretty advanced NADS mods completed including pre-filter. Car is built for touring so weighs a lot but only runs 33" and 2" lift. Has a Reman'd DTS pump and Reman'd blueprint injectors. Only ever used genuine fuel filters and branded pre-filters, normally Stanadyne or Donaldson based on availability. Never triggered the water alarm on the genuine filter, and never seen water build up in the bowl on the pre-filter, absolutely no doubt there has been dirty fuel put through the filters.

Symptoms
Notable fuel problems, at 200k the FPRV was switched for throwing P0087 and P0089 codes. At 250k the same codes were thrown, this time a leak back test was conducted on injectors and while worn, pass well within the specs. Finally at 270k the car has begun throwing only the P0087 Low Fuel Pressure code again - as above, only intermittent and seems environmentally triggered.

I took the car back to the place who did the last diagnostic as there seemed to be fuel leaking from the injector spill line (no name and shame, they are quite reasonable) while we sorted the spill lines, they retested and confirmed the FPRV has likely failed again and now told me I'm up for a fuel rail.

I have no issue with spending the money - however I would like to know specifically how the rail has become worn enough to require replacement. The workshop was unable to explain why with the usual 'thats what Bosch said to do...' - you will have to excuse my skepticism.

I have no plans to tune the car and I'm not up for cowboy mods to block fuel return lines etc. I just want an answer as to what has failed which may help me understand why and how to prevent it again.

Finally, I have found two different Nissan Part Numbers and three difference Bosch Part numbers through various levels of cross levels. One could assume that there were upgrades made over the 10+ year run of the CRD setup by both Bosch and Nissan, should I stick with the numbers Nissan have or go with Bosch as it is their kit.

Cheers
 

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I disassembled the valve, flared it, took out everything from the inside, there are two types of valves, in one there is a needle, in the other there is a plate with three holes, the valves were a little dirty, I cleaned the needle in one valve and opened the spring a little, put everything back and rolled it up as it was , the car started up immediately, before that it started up for a long time and worked badly at the beginning
 
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