Thanks PHD. I can't even find the glow plug relay, it's not in the engine bay so I will dig out the dash lower fascia panel tonight.Here is the one (Black/Red)
Many thanks PHD. I will try and find this under the dash
View attachment 553558
And the others :
do not get confused between R/B (below) and B/R(above) colours of the wires.
View attachment 553560
Sorry PHD, I replied to the wrong post.the above has nothing to do with the glow plug relay but relates to the wires between the ECU and the injection pump (fuel cut solenoid, which was what your question was about?).
Glow plugs, EC section . Pin 111 of the ECU is the one which "grounds" the glow plugs relay. You could cut and add a manual switch to "ground" this relay and activate the glow plugs" only if and when you want.
And don't ground the ECU pin, as this will NOT work.
It is the relay pin 2 which needs to be grounded through your manual switch. But what if you forget ?? I would NOT do this if I were you.
If you really want to modify, apply the "australian timer mod". It has been widely tested, and for a long time.
View attachment 553581
But why would you do this ? I live in the south of France, lived in south of Spain too, and never modified the start sequence of my glow plugs for 23 years on my Patrol. Same stock head. Nobody found any good reason to do this, or did this, in my country, from North to South..
PHD if I put a momentary switch as shown in the attached to interrupt the glow plug relay (low current side) will this allow manual activation of the glow plug relay?the above has nothing to do with the glow plug relay but relates to the wires between the ECU and the injection pump (fuel cut solenoid, which was what your question was about?).
Glow plugs, EC section . Pin 111 of the ECU is the one which "grounds" the glow plugs relay. You could cut and add a manual switch to "ground" this relay and activate the glow plugs" only if and when you want.
And don't ground the ECU pin, as this will NOT work.
It is the relay pin 2 which needs to be grounded through your manual switch. But what if you forget ?? I would NOT do this if I were you.
If you really want to modify, apply the "australian timer mod". It has been widely tested, and for a long time.
View attachment 553581
But why would you do this ? I live in the south of France, lived in south of Spain too, and never modified the start sequence of my glow plugs for 23 years on my Patrol. Same stock head. Nobody found any good reason to do this, or did this, in my country, from North to South..
thanks GU2, is there any difference between a timer and a momentary switch? I cant see one but just asking in a friendly non argumentative manner. Im trying to minimise costs and the momentary switch is only £2.Check out my build thread for a glowplug timer, had it for years, mine runs for 20-30 seconds now instead of 5 minutes or 75c, no issues with it and has many saving graces.
true, the thought of holding the button for 30 seconds isnt appealing now. will look into timer modand you are going to keep pressing on your momentary switch for at least 30s with a cold motor ? I would not do that. either I would apply the australian mod (and I never did), or do nothing.
thanks for this adivce. I am new to the zd30 but have owned rd28 parols before.To preserve your head , do not run manual boost control keeping the vanes closed most of the time and do not run excessive boost either.
Thanks for that advice. I will crank it with the IP de energised and the glow plugs removed to help it turn over quicker and easierRemoving the glow plug might not prevent (...will not) the motor to start.
I would remove the IP fuse, to make sure no diesel is sent into the cylinder, to make sure the motor does not start, and crank the motor several times to make sure oil gets to the turbo.
Certainly other members better mechanically-minded than myself would provide you with a better advice.
@geeyoutoo maybe ?
Am I stupid. I thought you were meaning "disconnecting", not taking the glow plug off entirely. Of course, with the holes in the cylinders, and lack of compression, the motor will not start. Put some sort of fabric above the holes to avoid to get fuel everywhere if your IP is still powered.
I am lazy. I would have just removed the IP fuse (which is an "anti-theft" too if you replace it by a burnt fuse) to make this quick.
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