[reol950]

Hi i'm starting another project and i'm planning to make my own 3" dump pipe and exhaust but need some photos of the dump pipe was thinking of making it the same length as the standard of which i have a spare to copy this is so i can bolt it up to the standard system and replace the rest as i go.

Hope someone can help

 

[Chaz]

Hi reol950,

That’s a great idea and not all that hard to do. This is my 3rd dump and by far the best. I had some help with this one because it’s 304 stainless but if you have the tig welding gear, it wouldn’t be too hard to make a nice system. This isn’t mandrel bent, but made up from bends so the inside needs to be cleaned up a bit.

 

[chuckles]

great pics chaz thanks! im in the same boat as reol950, as i can justify buying something for $170 then having to 'touch it up' to suit my quality requirements.

as its the wifes daily driver its hard to work out what angle the flange bolts onto the turbo, if ya get my drift.

cheers

 

[Chaz]

great pics chaz thanks! im in the same boat as reol950, as i can justify buying something for $170 then having to 'touch it up' to suit my quality requirements.

as its the wifes daily driver its hard to work out what angle the flange bolts onto the turbo, if ya get my drift.

cheers

Hi Chuckles,
It would almost be 90 degrees to the horizontal at the turbo, but there is a bit of room for error. Then there is getting the flange cut out and chamfering the outlet hole to suit. We made this one from 2” to 2 3/4” then started with a 2 ¾” to 3” stainless reducer and 3” from there.

The lower factory flange is on a weird angle though and I didn’t want to use any more flanges after the turbo, so that wasn’t a problem for me, but may be if you want to fit a 3” dump to the factory exhaust.

 

[reol950]

Thanks chaz that is what i'm looking for i have made a flange to fit the turbo it has a 50mm inner hole the same as the factory one but have made the flange out of 12mm steel and have had it then machined out to 70mm x 6mm deep i'm going to put a 70mm bend on it then out to 75mm for the rest. Mate have you noticed any difference with out the heat shield on. Also it looks like you ran the exhaust almost straight down the chassie rail did you run into any problems that way

Thanks again
I will be posting this in the diy section when i start

 

[dronus4x4]

Sorry for the HiJack..

Cool photo Chaz, Now i have a really good idea what the EGT gauge thingy should look like.

I take it they have to remove the dump pipe to weld that on there? Eventually ill get a larger exhaust i think, and will make sure it allready has the screw thing on there..

Cheers,

 

[Chaz]

Thanks chaz that is what i'm looking for i have made a flange to fit the turbo it has a 50mm inner hole the same as the factory one but have made the flange out of 12mm steel and have had it then machined out to 70mm x 6mm deep i'm going to put a 70mm bend on it then out to 75mm for the rest. Mate have you noticed any difference with out the heat shield on. Also it looks like you ran the exhaust almost straight down the chassie rail did you run into any problems that way

Thanks again
I will be posting this in the diy section when i start

No worries reol950,

I have since put the heat shield back on after taking those shots. I would expect that it’s there to protect all the other gear that’s above the dump so haven’t noticed any change.

I did run it straight down and then along without too many bends. It’s always best to keep the pipes as straight as possible and keep sharp bends to a minium.

I guess it’s a compromise between what’s ideal and what’s practically possible with what we have to work with. My main concern apart from performance, was keeping the whole system up high and out of the way with no rattles. I hate rattles!

The dump is a bit tight but there is plenty of room after that.

 

[Chaz]

Sorry for the HiJack..

Cool photo Chaz, Now i have a really good idea what the EGT gauge thingy should look like.

I take it they have to remove the dump pipe to weld that on there? Eventually ill get a larger exhaust i think, and will make sure it allready has the screw thing on there..

Cheers,

Hi mate,

This is how I did it on my factory exhaust.

Yes, you will have to remove the dump and cat to do it, but it's not too hard to do. If I was to do it again, I'd put the probe down a bit lower than this next time, like below the heat shield. Just need to trim some of the heat shield away.

 

[chuckles]

Hi Chuckles,
It would almost be 90 degrees to the horizontal at the turbo, but there is a bit of room for error. Then there is getting the flange cut out and chamfering the outlet hole to suit. We made this one from 2” to 2 3/4” then started with a 2 ¾” to 3” stainless reducer and 3” from there.

The lower factory flange is on a weird angle though and I didn’t want to use any more flanges after the turbo, so that wasn’t a problem for me, but may be if you want to fit a 3” dump to the factory exhaust.

cheers mate, i will be going to a 3" system. ill be using a 3" steam bend and with a carefully bit of oxy love and manipulating ill weld it straight to the flange i bought.

thanks again chaz

 

[Nikolay]

hello
Chaz, very well done
where are you taking and at what price gauge exhaust temperature

 

[T0nka]

So to have a pyro fitted, would that be a job for my exhaust guys or my auto elec?

 

[Troys 5.7 GU]

exhaust mob

 

[Chaz]

hello
Chaz, very well done
where are you taking and at what price gauge exhaust temperature

Hi Nikolay,

I’m not sure what you’re asking, but if it’s where I have the gauge and it’s cost, it’s mounted on a pilar pod and cost around AU$350. Here’s a pic,

So to have a pyro fitted, would that be a job for my exhaust guys or my auto elec?

T0nka,
Get you’re sparky to fit and wire the gauges, but tie the pyro and it’s wires up out of the way, then just get you’re exhaust guy to drop the cat, weld the ferrule on and screw the pyro in.

 

[Mark Davies]

Chaz, that is a great photo of your guages. Where did you get the pillar made up or is it a standard off the shelf somewhere? What sensors are you using for the EGT and boost PSI. Many thanks, Mark

 

[q8160]

Welding stainless steel exhausts

Just a little helper --- if you are welding elbows and straight to make up a dump pipe, tail pipes etc, if you are using a tig with Argon, block the ends and flow Argon in the pipe as you weld. It comes out all nice and smooth with no clean up.... if you are any good it will 'almost' look as if it was welded on the inside..

My 2 bobs worth

 

[Nikolay]

thanks Chaz
well done
in Moscow the 200-400 USD price for this device

 

[Chaz]

Chaz, that is a great photo of your guages. Where did you get the pillar made up or is it a standard off the shelf somewhere? What sensors are you using for the EGT and boost PSI. Many thanks, Mark

Hi Mark,
The 3 gauge pods were around before the Autron pods, but I don’t think you’ll find them any longer apart from the odd second hand one that comes up on ebay. They were a good fit, although the gauges face the passenger more than the Autron pod, but the gauges fit without any mods and you get to fit 3.

Just a little helper --- if you are welding elbows and straight to make up a dump pipe, tail pipes etc, if you are using a tig with Argon, block the ends and flow Argon in the pipe as you weld. It comes out all nice and smooth with no clean up.... if you are any good it will 'almost' look as if it was welded on the inside..

Ahaa! You know the tricks.

thanks Chaz
well done
in Moscow the 200-400 USD price for this device

Yes, it’s about the same here. You can pay anywhere between AU$250 and about $400 for an EGT gauge and pyro, depends what discounts and trade prices you can get. Some of the electronic gauges are cheaper and work well for the price. I use an electronic temp gauge with a similar pyro to measure intake air temps.

 

[reol950]

Have started getting some parts for my exhaust, I've made a 12mm turbo flange and which i have machined out to 70mm x 6mm deep so i can put my 70mm or 2 3/4" 90 bend on that then a adaptor out to 75mm or 3" at this stage i'm very happy with how its going.

Will be buying a 70mm tail pipe section from Beaudesert Exhaust for $150

Now another question is it nessary to have the flex piece in the new exhaust as the standard one ???

 

[chuckles]

looking great mate. i believe those flex couplings take abit of the vibrations from the motor out of the exhaust system. not sure they are neccesary but i wouldnt want to be having to be replacing exhaust mount rubbers often or repairing the exhaust

different stroke for different folks.

good luck

 

[dronus4x4]

Does anyone know anyone in Adelaide that would be interested in dropping my dump pipe, welding the nipple on, and putting it back?

I have all the parts, just having great difficulty getting the spanners in there to get the heat sheild and pipe off. I have to let the skin grow back, and the neighbours get over my swearing before attempting it again

Either that or replace it with one thats allready made?

Happy to pay the going rate, this is the last thing i need done before i can get the EGR blocked etc.

Ive tried calling a few exhaust places, but they dont seem too interested..