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Before you start I would recommend having the following on hand:

  • Good quality long 12mm spanner, this is important you will use it for the heat shield bolts.
  • good quality (with as small ratchet ring as possible) ratchet spanner set
  • Any spare gaskets you think you will need (Eclipse should supply you with the turbo oil line gasket where the line meets the turbo)
  • I replaced the other gasket where the line meets the block... it was cheap from Nissan.
  • Manifold gaskets are not cheap from Nissan. Order one somewhere else.
  • A good quality penetrant. Geeyoutoo recommended Reducteur H-72 and I'll say it worked well for me
  • Copper Eze or similar, I used this on heat shield bolts for re-fitting
  • Loctite 243
  • beg, steel or borrow a wad punch set
  • A rubber grommet grab kit of various sizes
  • A Provent 150 Catch can, or similar, if not already fitted
  • 2x short 76mm diameter silicone joiners
  • 3in exhaust pipe, I needed a 15 degree bent one
Disassembly:

So from memory: I started with disconnecting the pyro, boost line and Dawes valve

I dont have a dual battery but if I did, taking it out would probably occur first

Next I went through my split tubing and disconnected the fuel chip

Undo the 4 intercooler frame mounting points. IIRC standard cars use a 12mm. My CCIC uses 13s and hex keys.

Undo your intercooler hose top clamps. For removal I pop the cooler off from the hoses, pull it forwards off the studs and then set it dow, re-position myself and then carefully lift off. But I'm short.

Get under the car and unbolt the dump pipe at the bottom, ditto for the 3 bolts on the back of the turbo. They are 12mm, and here's the first place you will want/need ratchet spanners or wish you had them.

I unbolted the airbox, MAF housing and induction pipework at this point and put the plugs out of harms way.

From here you can probably start accessing the turbo. I inspected my original turbo so next came off the inlet bend. There wasnt much room for tools near the nut next to the exh manifold. Again they are 12mm, identical items to the dump pipe ones. Hopefully anyone doing this job doesnt need to remove the inlet.

At this point I sprayed (with Reducteur H-72) the turbo nut/studs, the heat shield bolts and the studs on the back of the original turbo daily for about 5 days. I was waiting for the new unit to arrive anyway and it gave me something to do when I was drinking an arvo beer.

Also at this point you will need to measure:
  • The studs on the dump pipe side of the OEM turbo
  • The studs on the exhaust manifold that mate to the turbo flange
If your studs are shorter on the exhaust manifold you will need to swap them with the ones on the back of the original turbo. This is because the Eclipse uses a spacer plate and double gaskets. I actually liked this swap as the dump pipe nuts arent as onerous a job now :rolleyes:


Studs from old turbo. You can see they are longer than the ones on the exhaust manifold





We used the double nut trick on the exh manifold and turbo dump studs with the dump pipe nuts, and thanks to the H-72 they came out easy as.

If your manifold studs are long enough it's happy days for you then... less to worry about. Mine were short even though I have a late model CRD.

After you have allowed a few days of soaking go ahead and pull the turbo. I started with the oil lines on the bottom - 2x10mm bolts and a banjo fitting.

From there I backed off the top turbo nuts all the way and carefully lifted the turbo out wholus bolus with it's lines still attached. After it's out it's much easier to get to the oil line flange bolts on it's underside.

While your there, get your new Eclipse turbo and spacer plate then slide it onto the studs and mark where you'll need to cut and clearance the heat shield.

Remove heat shield. I found it difficult to get to most of the bolts and they were very tight. I went slowly with my good long spanner to crack them and then rachet spannered them out. We unbolted the heater pipe from the top of the head to try to get more room but it didnt help to tell the truth. I cut the heat shield with an angle grinder and cleaned it up with a file. I'd recommend using a die grinder if you've got one.

You will now be at this point. The heat shield is actually not as poorly cut as it looks in the pic.
 

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Installation:

I started with putting a fresh gasket on the oil lines and bolting them to the new turbo.

I then positioned the turbo loosely on the block, dont forget your two gaskets and spacers I just started the nuts on the turbo to stop in all slipping off when manipulating the oil lines

New gasket on the block where the oil lines met and start the oil line bolts and banjo bolt

Now here is a hint that Gee mentioned: Tighten the oil line fittings first... then do the turbo.

I was quite happy to see it at this point :) but didnt take a pic :(

From here grab a short 76mm silicone joiner, slide it over the cast turbo inlet bend and mark where you want to punch it for your PCV breather, find a grommet that fits the PCV breather tightly, measure the outside and select a wad punch that will cut it slightly undersize and punch it. here's how it looks done. I greased it's mating surfaces both the grommet and the plastic 90 degree.



Here's how it looks on the car



I mated this new inlet up to the MAF sensor with another short straight 76mm joiner and a 15degree piece of exhaust pipe cut to length in the bandsaw.



Refit IC, Dawes, Vac lines pyro etc. I had to clearance my CCIC frame by bending it and slotting it's mount holes to push the cooler down in it's frame. Yes my VNT vac sol is cable tied to the IC frame.



All back together and ready for Dawes valve setting:

 

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Cool, funny about the studs, not sure if I mentioned it in my build thread but I had gotten hold of an exhaust manifold months before and passed it onto the guys, it was the reverse to mine (and yours) when the old turbo came off, the longer 35mm studs were in that manifold, so I'm not sure how or why this had changed. Funnily a new set of st/st studs had been advertised in the classifieds some time back so I bought them in anticipation but when I went to use them at Eclipse workshop they were to short.

On a CRD (without the superwide IC) or a later DI with only the oil lines to connect I would think 3 hours would see this job completed, for a DI with watercooling it definitely takes longer as it is a bit tricky. Absobloodylutely get the lower oil (water) line banjos started before tightening the manifold bolts other wise it can get extremely fiddly as I found out.

Good work mate.
 

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SUI GENERIS UTE
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I am not sure what Nissan are doing with studs and the models. I have just fited a turbo to a CRD 2012 and all studs are the same length but the short ones. So in revision we now have studs in the kit for the manifold. We now supply the block gasket for the drain as i found some and they break quite easy. The oil CHRA gasket we now have a supplier and in stock now.

So in revision 3 longer studs for the manifold, all gaskets turbine to dump pipe, turbine to manifold for the spacer, oil gasket and block gasket. I am debating if i will supply the copper washers for the oil feed as they are really easy to loose.

I haven't got my head around the intake side as yet but if we can work out if the angles of the induction pipe are the same for all models that would be a good option for supply etc.

Nice write up Marko.
 

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Good write up Marko. I'm interested to hear your thoughts from just changing the turbocharger only.
I dont have a remap but I do have extra fuel via a chip. I'm not at all scientific about before/after measurements with mods. but the 'trol seemed choked over 110km/h before and nor is the turbo spinning full speed on the HWY with the Dawes. It cruises much easier at full highway speed now and doesnt slow on hills it like used to, nor do I have to back off due to EGT. I was running the standard unit @ 20PSI and this thing stomps it particularly over 80km/h, even if it's just due to the ability to keep pulling where I'd have to back off before.

I cant wait for the tuners to get a good baseline tune for this thing.
 

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A little write up on the ZD Eclipse turbo. Eclipse has purchased a 2012 GU zd30 CRD to control development. The patrol came stock, std exhaust and all the engine bits as per nissan supplied. It has 2 inch lift using OME springs with some cheap dual tube shocks. As we all know the STD 3 litre is no power house and is not really a pleasure to drive engine wise. Its beyond me how nomads can tow a van with these things. That said my experience driving these things is quite extensive because my Dad has one which i have driven on long trips with his 14 foot van and around town quite a few times.

Our patrol had its turbo changed to our VNT version, and all the EGR stuff removed including the manifold butterflies removed so both valves now receive boosted air, and a bit of die grinding in the manifold ports to clean up flow. A cheap 3 inch exhaust was fitted at the same time. Most members will know how i just love top mount coolers so the std cooler top mount was binned and a cheap ebay tube and fin 600x300 front mount was fitted with 63mm tubing for a fraction of the cost of a big CC. Driving it like this in std ECU form really only strengthen up the 1600 above rpm area. Boost points are a bit slower but the turbo is much larger so supplies the same air or more at lower boost points. Off idle torque was pretty much the same on the dyno its only after 1600ish where torque is a bit stronger with std fuel. Obviously it is a bit more responsive to drive but not what i would call a pleasure to drive, remembering my experience and love is monster TD42 power.

A unichip was fitted to try and induce a better driving torque curve with the std ECU mapping by tricking the STD limits. We did get a nice result but not what could be achieved with a remap. The UNICHIP was fitted so the drive down to Tuggerah would be a bit more bearable, with 90/400+. Also the turbo does not cause those annoying limp points.

The drive from Caboolture to Tuggerah is about 900klms or about 10 hours. To miss all the roads works before Grafton i drove a little detour off the Mount lindesay HWY at Running creek road to lions rd onto Gradys Creek rd. Its all single lane and over the Border range. A really fun drive to test power and gear selection with lots a steep pinches and really tight turns onto single lane wooden bridges. You know the stuff, real VW Golf R country. The drive wasn't fun compared to my GQ TD with 200/800 many gear changes and waiting for torque to build, there just wasn't enough gears. You know the stuff the engine is revving its head off or nearly stopped in the next gear. Not Fun. After Grafton on the 110 klm's stuff on cruise control its was a pleasure to drive. It was after 12:00 midnight so i sat the cruise control on GPS 120klms or a touch under 130klms on the speedo or just on 3000rpm. It growled a bit on the HWY hills but only dropped a few klms at best. I know for a fact a STD ZD like my Dads rig would never achieve that ever. At 114 klms GPS or 120klms on the speedo and about 2800rpm it is much the same, a pleasure to drive. It still accelerates to 140klms GPS without effort when passing that nuisance slower car or semi. In the towns with their stupid 50 klms and speed cameras it will still hold 5th gear but better in 4th to get some response.

Spent 5 hours in Tuggerah at ECPT for a remap and dyno setting. We had a bad intake manifold flange leak which only allowed 27 psi for some 140/590. Remember std CRD injectors struggle to get 150 rwkws so we are pretty much at the limits.

The drive home was fun to say the least. On highway the cruise control sticks to its setting no matter what highway hill. Depress the accelerator at 114 klms to pass that nuisance semi or car and you get a fright as you easily hit 140klms GPS.

My little hour detour single lane track over the Border Range was sooooo much fun not once did i struggle to find the right gear i must admit it was very much like my GQ 200/800 silvertop it pulls strong from 1500 to 3500 rpms. You quickly learn to short shift keeping the rpms in the 1800 to 3000 range. To say the least the detour drive was so much fun it was nearly as fun as driving a golf R through that range. And yes i had the patrol understeering and oversteering many times to make it interesting, never once did i feel i was driving a torque slug like before.

Driving through the little towns with all the 50klm stuff the engine felt comfortable in 5th gear with a nice pull response from 1100 rpm sure its better in 4th but it takes a bit of getting use to the throttle response, you have to learn to use slight throttle inputs with your foot to get smooth torque delivery between 1300 and 3000 rpm. Even at HWY speeds you need to learn better foot control for a smooth torque delivery. It really does have sensational response.

As many would appreciate i am a die hard monster power TD42 man i like simple but for me to suggest a ZD30 can be as fun to drive as my GQ TD thats a huge rap coming from me. Sure our team designed this turbo and i need to sell these things to make a living. But anyone who knows me will know i wont awesome beat up a product, thats just not the engineer in me. The engineering trickery designed into this turbo has resulted in a nice linear torque feel, the focus was to extend the std turbos torque and power above its limits. I have never been about dyno graphs and the peak values even though that is what the market thinks they need. This turbo will easily push those big numbers if you want to change injectors for more fuel and still keep low end driveability better than the STD turbo. I believe most people will not want that big power number, but want a better driving patrol. This turbo does that by extending the power and torque in the same usable area as the std VNT turbo does. This turbo looses nothing in the lower rpm range and that was the focus for this design.

As usual we will keep developing this product with more design trickery as time passes, it will only be subtle driveability improvements though. It wont be about big numbers as the std injectors can only flow so much and that limit has been reached with this turbo design.

This turbo is not a high flow or is it a std turbo with a different shaft and wheels shoe horned into std housings. Yes it has a billet comp wheel with some trickery fitted into a comp housing designed to complement that wheel. It has a turbine wheel that is a bit different using mixed flow tech and some brain fart ideas using different blade angles and cup designs. It has a turbine housing made from a precision cast stainless steel with design shapes to promote drive and flow for that illusive response criteria i like. It does have a VNT nozzle assembly thats a bit different from the STD Garrett version that does have a bit more adjust-ability. And yes its a bit more expensive than a ebay replacement special or the other high flow variants that can be had for a few less dollars. But it does have a lot of design love and countless hours of Turbo dyno testing R&D with balancing specs only seen in the racing field for a product i am proud to offer to the ZD30 patrol with my typical passion many who know me will appreciate.

Attached a picture of the typical hazards on my test detour track
 

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obi 1 patientnewby !
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OldMav, did you get fuel consumption figures? and how were the egt with the front mount intercooler?
 

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Thanks for the update @OldMav.

To say that I was eager to hear what you got out of it is an understatement.

Also interested to hear how EGTs are after remap. Was this a towing safe tune?
 

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@Obi 1 I didn't do consumption figures as its would be a little unfair due to the way i drive but to confirm i used both tanks before Kempsey on the way down and half a tank from there to Tuggerah. That is not good, on the way home i started with half a tank from Tuggerah i got to Coffs on that, second tank not used, but i did transfer fuel into the main tank because i got frightened when the needle got below 1/4, but it would have made it easy on the main tank. I filled up and made it home with still half a tank. So yes it uses a lot less fuel than it did on the way down.

EGT's are not a consideration for this turbo design mate.
 

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@Obi 1 EGT's are not a consideration for this turbo design mate.
And I can fully back that up, initially on mine EGT was a bit higher but after we did a few setup tweaks (which is now the std) all that is gone, on original GT2052 I would run 210-240c cruising and it wasn't something I was happy with, now I run 240-260c at cruise and I like that, a bit more heat in there is a good thing as long as it is controllable, it doesn't get any hotter overall now than it did originally, so happy as a pig in the proverbial.
 

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@OldMav sounds like a good run. I am reasonably happy with my PC H/F now _ reworked M24 housing (GT2052V) but has taken a lot of time/work. Out of the box is was not set up well, certainly not on a flow bench, balanced yes, but I have spent many hrs setting up actuator "Hg to suit my setup and next play will be vane angle limit set screw.

If you were 12 months earlier certainly would have given Eclipse a go for sure.

Mine is performing well spools up fast from 1950 (boosting >20psi) all out <21,500(26psi). As a comparison to your smooth torque delivery between 1300 and 3000 rpm _ mine from 1500 load >60%,running 33s. Drive by wire (lag) is a CRD downfall. Currently addressing that.

UPDATE: 1940hrs, Just did rnd trip 100ks to test mods from yesterday, now lugs well (5th gear) from 1500, spools fast from 1900 (boosting >20psi) all out 2000rpm (26psi/100% loaded) will go 27psi >3000rpm.

I have a billet whl and yes most likely not as well designed, but problem, my exhaust whl is 9 blades and heavier (I think) and takes time to spin up. I drive mainly country 600-1200m elev (80 km rnd trip to by milk) to give U an idea.

Question (FMIC):

Currently run T&F TM cooler 600x300x76 and has small core leak so going to do FM (T&F). Are U able to take some pick of pipe route for me and what cooler did U install for CRD.

Any resonance/turbulence noise from FM @ high boost/loaded?
John
 

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@Marko_SJ something I meant to ask you re one of our earlier conversations, are you still seeing a positive boost reading at idle? Mine shows 1psi at idle since fitting the new turbo.
 

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Where does one get one?

Thanks for all the hard work boys. Been waiting for this. Wife won’t let me re-engine but re turbo is fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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@Marko_SJ something I meant to ask you re one of our earlier conversations, are you still seeing a positive boost reading at idle? Mine shows 1psi at idle since fitting the new turbo.
Hi Ross,

When the engine is warm I have typically .4 to half a pound of boost.

Dawes valve setup... NV closed.
 

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Hi Ross,

When the engine is warm I have typically .4 to half a pound of boost.

Dawes valve setup... NV closed.
Mine sits at .5 > 1.0 at idle. The needle valve has long gone since returning to vacsol operation of boost until Dawes took over maximum, now with the Digibooster it won't be making a return visit ;).


Where does one get one? Needle valve on mine has long disappeared since going back to Vacsol control of running boost and now with the Digibooster it won't be coming back.

Thanks for all the hard work boys. Been waiting for this. Wife won’t let me re-engine but re turbo is fine.
PM OldMav, you won't regret it.
 

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Mine sits at .5 > 1.0 at idle. The needle valve has long gone since returning to vacsol operation of boost until Dawes took over maximum, now with the Digibooster it won't be making a return visit ;).
The VNT is set to a specific valve turbine side only. So you want a turbine to flow with an ideal compromise drive force against vane open position to give a good starting spool drive without to much choke. We use a set psi turbine inlet pressure to produce a specific corrected volume flow into the turbine and adjust the VNT position set screw to our lbs/min flow value. Each turbine design and housing shape will be different. We use a value close to what Garrett/Nissan have set for that engine. Due to design it is a bit different.

When that turbine drive force is transferred over to the comp wheel depending on design and force the turbine wheel produces and the aggressiveness of the comp wheel it will produce volume. You will have about 3 lbs/min corrected volume flowing out your compressor at idle When the engine is warm and the exhaust gas has stabilised its EGT. Remember EGT is about stable not low EGT. In General More heat in the exhaust gas = more volume and drive the turbine wheel will have. So on the induction side the less resistance you have in the air cleaner / piping as well as after the compressor piping and cooler resistance the more volume will flow at idle and throughout the rpm range, cylinder head flow dependent of course. PSI or boost is dependent on resistance of course. To a design point the less resistance you have meaning for the same boost PR (density dependent) you have more lb/min corrected volume will reach the cylinders for the same PR or boost value. As i have said many times boost pressure is not a measure of a turbo's capacity and effectiveness, its simply a guide.

Now the difference between both your idle readings is a bit about the gauges used as they are not perfect but also and mainly Ross's rig is a development vehicle and hours upon hours was spent tuning his VNT in his car on road conditions to get the most ideal spool for the induction resistance criteria he has in his engine bay including the weight of his car at the time. Many other factors come into play here as well including spool AFR as that can be a factor. So the vane position on Ross's rig just so happens to be slightly more open than the base setting set on the Turbo dyno test equipment in the workshop. When he gets his remap done and nice chassis dyno spool /torque/power adjusted we have a base setting to now readjust the on road spool criteria to suit that AFR spool setting. Remember guys a chassis dyno is only one tuning criteria as is a remap. Its a compromise at best not a be all to end all. In reality its probably less than a 1/3 of the whole picture in the tuning criteria. But a chassis dyno is the best compromise we have for accepted general tuning and by far the fastest method with data you can see.

For example a F1 car only uses a dyno to set base tune, all the tuning is done on road for each track and condition usually done live.
 

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So Ross have you gone for larger injectors at the same time?

Wondering if I wait and go the whole hog at once.

I’ll send you a pm OldMav

Rich


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