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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I need some help I have a 2001 gu patrol 380k on the clock awesome zd30 shame their a grenade

problem all was going aok until the hydraulic tensioner faulted it failed and started loosing oil in the hydraulic oil part of it (a small tiny rock on one of the groves that the belt goes one), ok after a few phone calls found out if it does fail id be stuck on the side of the road so limped home
started it the next day and oh it was making a bad noise very bad, I ordered a new one hydraulic tensioner and got ripped of by burson's I found out later cause the part cost me $350+ not including installation (only option as out in the bush) they exploit everyone those maggots but no choice what do you do
ok done and dusted replaced it
started it up :( another noise had developed sound's like the timing chain slapping the plastic sleeve (had mechanic a look at it he said timing chain as well kinda confirmed my thinking)- ok ordered kit pulled engine apart and replaced it put everything back together again started it up grrrrr fme the same sound is there coming from the front of the engine right where the chain is sounding like the chains slapping the plastic guide so pull it part and check it just in case nope all good after 5 mins the noise goes away so still investigating it

ok the real reason for this post is I have spent probably 40 hours looking through this forum to no avail spend over a week googling etc my issue cannot find anything similar t0 my fault and rand Nissan they cant explain it contacted many diesel mechanics they cant explain it

my fault - I now have exhaust coming out the air filter/snorkel and not much exhaust coming out the actual exhaust however I have removed all the exhaust from the turbo to the back and its not blocked im only getting small amount out of the turbo

any ideas would be appreciated
 

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GHMBC #3
nissan patrol gq lwb,3"lift.
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your valve timing must be so far out for that to happen.did you check timing after tensioner failed?
 

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nissan patrol
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It must have jumped a tooth or so, so your inlet valve is staying open for a bit longer on the exhaust stroke than what it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hello when I replaced the timing chain/kit I had the mechanic out (so I didn't stuff anything up) he looked up where the timing should be and manually moved the motor over to line up what he had to then installed the new kit so I presume it was done correctly however bring this up as I'm seeing him on Tuesday ill ask him about this cenario
the timing chain had not broken and the tensioner was working and there was no signs of ware on the guides but changed it just to be safe :)

oh I just saw a problem in the initial post that's a me = bad
it was the "hydraulic tensioner for the belt" not the timing chain hydraulic tensioner
cheers
 

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nissan patrol
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How much exhaust gas is coming out the intake?

You sure its not the exhaust manifold leaking? It can give an extremely metallic ticking noise when they go bad.

More questions! Does the engine lack power? In reality if anything skipped teeth etc.. the engine just simply would not run. If the valves were staying open it wouldnt generate enough compression to fire 99% of the time.
 

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Grenade Master
GU4 05
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2,613 Posts
If the engine is running kinda normal but it smokes out of airbox I wonder if your breather hose is letting the crankcase gases through but that means it is breathing excessively so compression problems perhaps. I would try to disconnect the breather hose so it vents to atmosphere and check again. I only witnessed an engine running backwards once because it was jumped started in reverse and it was 1960s era V12 truck engine without antiback firing cam profile camshaft in the inline injection pump.
ZD30 possibly couldn't run backwards could it!

Regards
 

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I would be looking at the breather also as a first place to look, they do breath heavy anyway so don't be too shocked unless it looks like an old steam train.

Having said that I wonder if you have a sticking inlet valve, you said it ran rough and noisy for a while and then went away, there is a possibility you had a valve stick open after it was shut down and after it heated up again freed itself, this would also explain the noise as that tappet would be noisy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok here goes ill try and explain what is happening
ie : first thing the next day cold start, turn ignition what for glow plugs light then start
fires and runs no surging just normal but there is a noise like a loose chain slaping the guides (that's what it sounds like to me and that's what it sounded like to the mechanic but I'm not a mechanic but have had my fair time fixing mine and helping others)
but the noise goes away after a few mins (like either oil gets up there or oil pressure for the hydraulic tensioner for the chain...maybe) - I had tried a few times to take it to the mechanic for him to hear it but when ever I get near there its running fine as no noises apart from what normal is
lacking power is yes I'd say more than 25%
we have checked the vacuum hoses connections - sensors as borrowed from another running vechile for test but discovered another issue
issue is not much exhaust coming out exhaust ie you can barely feel it at the end of the exhaust
so I pulled it all apart from the turbo to the rear its clean no collapsed Cadillac converter as someone suggested
yes I am pulling my hair out
so when we disconnected the intercooler hose we saw exhaust fumes fill the engine bay
took off breather hose and exhaust is coming out - when its all connected the exhaust is coming out the air filter box which has now become deformed and I need to replace and id presume coming out the snorkel or well the car is re-using the exhaust as air hmmmm don't like the sound of that :) but that's what is happening
im pretty sure things are going bad for me now to worse as its developed a squeak like an old car with old belts many years ago and the noise is like omg its going to give up the ghost
thankyou all for your inputs and thoughts though
I dropped it of a the mechanic so he can start it tomorrow and hear all the noise's and since he set and made sure the timing chain was in the correct place its got him buggered
if you rev the motor is goes up fine (how ever the other day it was going to 2000-2200 then like stall or get stuck there a few seconds (ie 5 seconds) before proceeding upwards) but of late havnt had that scenario the boost gauge seems to show the turbo working well with it now anyways
 

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Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
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Bugga me, I've read this a hundred times and can't think of anything concrete, crank angle sensor problem caused by the loose belt slapping the sensor or wiring? loss of power could also be blocking of the throttle body and inlet manifold from EGR crap? Deformed filterbox from exhaust gas? I would have thought that if valve timing had skipped that much the valves would have contacted the pistons giving a permanent rattle???????

Mate I can't wait to hear what the mechanic says, please keep us informed.
 

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07 Black Patrol 3.0 / 04 Grey 3.0 Patrol / 01 3.0 Patrol
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What's the story with the EGR on this one? sounds very strange indeed....

I presume you blocked the EGR? If not check it out...but then again that wouldn't even cause this.....

As mentioned problem with valves sticking open....
 

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nissan patrol
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The engine just wont run with valves sticking open. Even just fractions of a mm can cause contact to the pistons. But more than that, if the exhaust or intake valves are open on the compression stroke you have no compression.

No compression = engine dont run.

My method of diagnosing a problem like this would be to tap a hole in the exhaust manifold to check pressure there as a first step.

Checking the intake with a co2 sensor for exhaust gas to ensure that it is actually making its way back to the intake.

If exhaust manifold pressure is high, then either the turbo is partially siezed, or the exhaust side of it is blocked.
 
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