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"NOW TAKING BRIBES"
nissan
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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, my old mans car(ZD30) is throwing this code "turbo pressure" and it cant be cleared, they have part swapped nearly every sensor and it still does it

Hes going to burn it if he cant fix it

Anyone know about this code?

Cheers Matt
 

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"NOW TAKING BRIBES"
nissan
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5,282 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
He has a gauge, when i load it up as hard as i can the highest it sees is 16psi(with the dawes)
 

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nissan y61
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This is what I would do. Remove batt cables neg then pos. Clean the turbo and vaines with Parafin. Once cleaned and fitted back turn the boost down to 5PSI and test drive. Then check fault code if all is ok slowly turn it back to 14 or 16 psi in stages.
Replace maff, replace fuel filter and if you have not blocked off the EGR clean it and fix back. You may also look at getting the fuel pressure checked. It may be a good time while the turbo is off for cleaining is to have the fuel pump serviced and injectors.

Get access to the ECU and prepare to remove it with the engine running. Remove plug to ECU and then turn the key off. remove bat cables neg then pos. wait 5 mins fix back, test drive and then check faults code. I hope you get 0505.
 

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"NOW TAKING BRIBES"
nissan
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5,282 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
We have tried everything, took the car to another dealership today and all they could tell us it it has a code 95, i beleive this is an over boost code but we have it set up as running 16PSI max

Where do we look for or who do we call that knows about this issue?
 

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Go Hard or Go Home
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3,197 Posts
Over boost symptoms can be achieved with too fast a spool rate even though the max boost is set to 16PSI.
I'd think that the boost sensor is doing its job, it notices too fast a spool rate or too high boost reading for a given rpm & goes into limp mode.

How about a needle valve to slow the spool rate? or adjust the VNT grub screw to slow it slightly.

And dont you mean a 905 code? which is boost pressure.

Stock ZD, yes with no engine mods apart from dawes?
 

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"NOW TAKING BRIBES"
nissan
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Discussion Starter #9
Ill get him to try all that

Yer its a stock ZD with a dawes and EGR block, but its does it with the dawes removed and back to stock as well, so ive been told anyway
 

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nissan
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Hi Matt, as Paul mentioned, it is always a good idea to clean the earth points including the ones on the intake manifold as they have been known to throw strange codes.

Have they measured the voltage coming out of the sensor?

This little baby can throw a 905 code for an excessively high or low reading. It should sit at about 2v at idle and work its way to around 4v under boost.

The three pins on the boost sensor are 1) 5v from the ECU, 2) (or middle pin) boost sensor output & 3) is earth (do not use this pin as the reference for the meter - use the battery -ve).

If all is well there you would need to check the sensor output voltage at the ECU harness and if that is ok, check the harness boost earth wire has continuity to the sensor.

Let us know what you find or if you need a diagram for the ECU harness.

Cheers,
Whitie
 

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nissan
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Whats the deal with adjusting the VNT screw, easy job?
There is an easy way to do it ( I think ;)), I will post it up a bit later..
 

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"NOW TAKING BRIBES"
nissan
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Discussion Starter #13
While your at it, is there a way to clear the code from home?
 

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nissan
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Onya Helms'y :punkrock:

Matt, here is a grave dig from 2009 on another way to adjust the grub:

There is an easier way (me thinks) to adjust the grub screw...

The way that I did it was to remove the top 2 bolts from the actuator bracket and loosen the bottom one. This enables you to just move the actuator out of the way without having to unmount the actuator.

Mark the adjusting screw on its bottom so you can see if it moves when you loosen or tighten its locking nut.

Loosen the locking nut (8mm socket) enough to allow you to move the adjusting screw (2.5mm allan key). Adjust as required (1/3 of a turn clockwise). Tighten the locking nut just enough so that the adjusting screw does not move with vibration - but you are still able to move it with the allan key.

Put back the outermost bolt to the actuator bracket and tighten the bottom one then go for a test drive.

The idea of not locking the adjusting screw properly is that if you are lucky, you can get your allan key back in there and move the screw to fine tune without having to remove anything again. When you have moved the screw as required, with a screwdriver or something like that - try and again slightly tighten the locking nut then try the above steps again.

When satisfied, tighten the locking nut properly by moving the actuator out of the way again and put back all of the bolts.

Cheers,
Whitie

PS. none of this is needed if you install a needle valve as it will set your spool rate instead of the grub screw.
 
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