Patrol 4x4 - Nissan Patrol Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was rolling along down a slight decline at about 96/8 Ks touched the pedal to keep the speed up.
IT DIED
Rolled to a stop, found so much blowby that the dip stick had come out.
This motor has gone 1700 (seventeen hundred) since it was shop rebuilt
I've got No1 piston out.
It is seriously picked up (see photo)
Why?
All sugestion welcome
Thanks
531428
rod
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,269 Posts
Shop rebuild!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Take it back. Top of piston not shown, would be helpful to see it but from that pic it looks more like pick up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks,
The shop went out of business not long after this motor was done.
The top of piston looks pretty good.
I agree, 'pick up' but why?
Wasn't hot, practically no boost when it died
Been looking hard at No1 big end bearing, could be skuffed too. just doesn't look right
All other 3 are excellent
Blocked squirter?
The motor was rebuilt because the bearings went on the left counter balance shaft

rod
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,269 Posts
Thanks,
The shop went out of business not long after this motor was done.
The top of piston looks pretty good.
I agree, 'pick up' but why?
Wasn't hot, practically no boost when it died
Been looking hard at No1 big end bearing, could be skuffed too. just doesn't look right
All other 3 are excellent
Blocked squirter?
The motor was rebuilt because the bearings went on the left counter balance shaft

rod
Squirter was my first thought I had also, these help cool the base of the piston. Going out of business so soon doesn't give me a lot of confidence in their ability. Condolences, not sure what options you have now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Found this, on another web site

"If the engine was recently rebuilt, the scuffing problem may be due to insufficient assembly clearances. The only way to know is to measure the pistons and cylinders. Measure the pistons at the top, center and bottom of the skirt area in two directions (parallel to the wrist pin and perpendicular to the wrist pin) to see if the pistons are within the manufacturer’s specifications.

If the pistons are the correct size, then measure the cylinder bore at the top, middle and bottom, also in two directions (parallel to the crankshaft and perpendicular to the crankshaft). This will tell you how much taper is in the bores, and if bore distortion is a problem. By subtracting the piston dimensions from the bore dimensions, you can figure the piston-to-cylinder clearance. If the clearance is within specifications, the underlying problem is overheating. If overheating is involved, the scuffing will be primarily on the upper ring lands and on the sides near the wrist pins. There may also be oil carbon and lacquer burned onto the underside of the piston indicating it was unusually hot. (This one is clean inside)

The presence of scuff marks on the lower skirt area would tend to indicate a lubrication problem rather than an overheating problem. Scuff marks on the edges or corners of the thrust sides of the piston would indicate bore distortion as the culprit. Scuffing on both thrust sides would indicate binding in the wrist pin.

Any time you find evidence of scuffing, therefore, it’s important to diagnose and correct the underlying cause to prevent a repeat failure."" end

In the mean time, will do more measuring and also check the clearances in the oil pump, If I remember the oil light flickered when idling after a run while letting the turbo cool down.
This engine has only the one sender by the starter
These pistons are oversize
rod
 

·
Premium Member
2016 CRD wagon
Joined
·
1,463 Posts
So I was rolling along down a slight decline at about 96/8 Ks touched the pedal to keep the speed up.
IT DIED
Rolled to a stop, found so much blowby that the dip stick had come out.
This motor has gone 1700 (seventeen hundred) since it was shop rebuilt
I've got No1 piston out.
It is seriously picked up (see photo)
Why?
All sugestion welcome
Thanks View attachment 531428 rod
What a mess! Sorry to hear this, especially since it's basically newly rebuilt.

What does the bore look like?
Did they re use the pistons?

Edit: sorry didnt see the post above
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gentle men and women, It is a long story,

The original (2000) motor made roughly 320,00 ks before the usual grenade.
The owner rebuilt it and went about 23,000 before the turbo went through the engine.
"THAT SHOP" as above, rebuilt it for him, bored with oversize pistons.
Got about 5,000 ks before supposedly was out of oil (they said) when the balance shaft chopped out the bearings and casting, requiring another block to be rebuilt. (Owners fault it ran out of oil so no warranty) good excuse!
The owner pulled it down to find the rings had not been gapped and were stuck in the grooves. (so that is where the oil went)
Absolutely, totally beyond me, he went back to the same place. (use any superlatives you like - idiot)

A block was purchased from a wrecker and bored to suit
when assembled and ready to go back to the owner, they found it was a Navara block.
They stripped it out and had yet another block bored to suit the oversize pistons
They assembled it.
We fitted it, to find a water leak behind the front covers running down the left of the block.
But wait, there's more. It would start and idle but not rev up (clouds of smoke)
He tilt tray to their shop - they stripped front of motor finding a o'ring was missed.( don't worry they charged them for labor and the o'ring!!!!!!
They had the Injector pump rebuilt at the same time
Still started fine but not revving properly so they fitted a new turbo
It could be driven "just" because it was in limp

Then he died aged 61 - diabetes. (I'm guessing he has spent over $30 gs on that motor by then)

I bought it off the TAX department out of his estate with flat ruined batteries. ($500) a bargain, new motor and all,
Plus 2 fuel tanks, what was going on there I wonder?
Yer right - and then - well read all the other drama I had to get it going as I have already posted.

I fitted the "NADS" with fuel cooler, lift pump, etc, and it was going great and I was pleased with it, plenty of get up and go, running cool as a cucumber, and great air-con, went on a run to get another 4.2 block for the GQ
then this happens, Beginning to think it is "jinxed"

I bought another motor, ($150) brought it home to find - well that is a story in itself. Including a blown tire on that trip.
Another block came, but it is already oversize - No 1 badly scored with No 4 big end crank journal badly scored
Now, I think I've found a 2004 engine in a Tbone (have to wait for another pension to come in)
Wish me luck, should have enough for a trip to the scrapper soon, rod

PS the body and interior is immaculate, Steel bull bar, big lights, winch, tow bar/electric brake setup, and with new clutch, big exhaust, new springs and shocks, new tyres and so many Redarc gauges, switches and accessories it looks like an airplane cockpit. UHF radio, Oh, and a fridge. Yea, the fridge works, it will freeze beer!!!
 

·
Administrator
Y2KGUII ZD Wgn
Joined
·
48,269 Posts
Found this, on another web site

"If the engine was recently rebuilt, the scuffing problem may be due to insufficient assembly clearances. The only way to know is to measure the pistons and cylinders. Measure the pistons at the top, center and bottom of the skirt area in two directions (parallel to the wrist pin and perpendicular to the wrist pin) to see if the pistons are within the manufacturer’s specifications.

If the pistons are the correct size, then measure the cylinder bore at the top, middle and bottom, also in two directions (parallel to the crankshaft and perpendicular to the crankshaft). This will tell you how much taper is in the bores, and if bore distortion is a problem. By subtracting the piston dimensions from the bore dimensions, you can figure the piston-to-cylinder clearance. If the clearance is within specifications, the underlying problem is overheating. If overheating is involved, the scuffing will be primarily on the upper ring lands and on the sides near the wrist pins. There may also be oil carbon and lacquer burned onto the underside of the piston indicating it was unusually hot. (This one is clean inside)

The presence of scuff marks on the lower skirt area would tend to indicate a lubrication problem rather than an overheating problem. Scuff marks on the edges or corners of the thrust sides of the piston would indicate bore distortion as the culprit. Scuffing on both thrust sides would indicate binding in the wrist pin.

Any time you find evidence of scuffing, therefore, it’s important to diagnose and correct the underlying cause to prevent a repeat failure."" end

In the mean time, will do more measuring and also check the clearances in the oil pump, If I remember the oil light flickered when idling after a run while letting the turbo cool down.
This engine has only the one sender by the starter
These pistons are oversize
rod
If it did have insufficient assembly clearance then that is an unforgivable technical mistake by the business, I've rebuilt many engines from big V8's to little 4's and clearances for different bore diameters and ultimate uses are a basic principle. Hope you can sort something out of the mess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here is a pic of No1 cylinder in the daylight
531435

As this has already been bored oversize, it's probably a throw away for me.
BUT, I do have another block that is bored to this same size
So:) would anyone have ONE oversize piston they would sell? With rings?
I maybe able to make up a spare rough engine for emergencies
thanks rod
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
On the bright side......the fridge works, so at least you can have a cold beer while working on it !
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top